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Ollybean

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  • Location:
    Kendal, Cumbria

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  1. I have trees, on my own plot of land, that I cut for firewood. It has a public footpath on it and for my own and general interest I would like to leave some stumps to carve but don't have any experience or artistic skill. Are there any books or youtubes recommended ?
  2. Thanks for that, I was nearly ready to send it back.
  3. Just bought my first commercial throw line, a Marlow 2mm, as my bit of string tends to open up. When I rolled off several metres of the new line it kept kinking whatever I did with it. Does it have to be treated before use, e.g. washing ?
  4. Thanks, I did not realise that was a link to the rubbers,
  5. When I google them they come in at £150 to £180.
  6. No no, its not what your thinking. I am making my own "big shot" and would like to know what kind of rubber to use and its size, i.e. OD, ID and length. I have never seen a real live one and its hard to judge off any photos what I need. Any info or idea is welcome.
  7. I own a piece of land with a public path on it. Needs maintenance to keep Joe public safe and supplies me with fire wood for the good old stove. Nice recreational stuff with no pressure, except --- I work solo and the general public ignore all my warning signs and wander past when I am working, if I am not vigilant, with no idea of the danger. Either side of the work area are warning cones and then a warning notice to "stop and warn of approach". Also tried rope barrier but they duck under it. I have proximity alarms as well to alert me. Its no good applying for a footpath closure as I never know when I am going down to work and how often.
  8. No training received, just self taught free climbing for 50 years and in the last year resorted to the gear and reading "The Tree Climbers Companion" by Jeff Jepson. Although a USA publication it has a lot of relevant content. I cannot find an equivalent book published in the UK.
  9. My 7mm cord is rated at 13kn, and it is used with a Blake's hitch as a fail safe on the single climbing line. Having tried most of the hitches the Blake's works for me. My upper Petzl handled ascender is rigged to my harness with two 7mm ropes, one to each side. This gives me more hand room for the Petzl handled ascender fixed with a looped 7mm rope to my webbing foot loops. Also use two lanyards adjusted with the Blake's hitch. I like belts and braces so to speak.
  10. I do use single climbing rope which is a semi static by Beal. The cord I use for friction hitches and tying from the climbing rope to harness is static at 7mm and works well. My query is whether I need to go up in size for strength or is the 7mm good enough. PS.. my boot laces are leather so maybe not strong enough.
  11. The rope I have been using is rated stuff from a climbing shop. Not an arborist supplier though so does it make a difference.
  12. I have seen conflicting info on the size needed for making friction hitch rope lengths. Some say about 70% of the climbing rope diameter and others that they are the same size as the climbing rope. I have been using my home made 7mm dia on a 10.5mm climbing rope and they hold well, but are they strong enough ? Most of the commercial ones advertised are 8mm and over.
  13. I wondered why the friction hitch ropes, (eg. split tails and prusiks), advertised for sale seem to be 8mm and up in diameter. The climbing rope I use is a semi-static Beal Antipodes at 10.5mm diameter. One of the local climbing shops said that I could use 6mm diameter for making Prusiks etc. but I settled for 7mm which works ok but I still wonder if this is strong enough.
  14. Do my eyes deceive me or does step 3 show the running end on the wrong side of standing part ?
  15. Thanks Martyn, i take on board the safety tested advice. Ref. rope grabs, do i need one or will a friction knot be ok ?

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