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farmerguido

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  • Location:
    South Devon

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  1. We're only a farming business with biomass boiler and woodburners so don't need the presentation quality to sell the logs. We also run a building business and electricians and plumbers tend not to have chainsaw qualifications, but they can use this in complete safety. The little fergie 135 will run it with mild complaints but 65hp is ideal. Not really an issue for most professionals on this forum but I also thought that it was simple and robust enough to lend to my neighbours - you wouldn't do that with a Posch! I was put off the Klapo-Tuiko by the saftey aspect (ie no infeed conveyor). Who wants to spend all that money only to worry about others using it? Having said that, the guillotine looks a better design, more splitting. NB It has a kill cord running along that will go to the decompressor pull on the tractor!?! How many modern tractors have one of those? I have bought an outboard (marine) engine kill cord for a few£ on ebay to wire to the PTO switch but haven't yet got round to fitting ......
  2. I'm having the same trouble with my rear glass on my Snugtop on the Navara. Snugtop are quoting me over £100 for the pair, which I am reluctant to pay to a company which designed such piece of crap in the first place. There are lots of online co.s selling them for 20% of the price, but, like you, I have the dimensions but not the force - I am going to guess with a little bit of O level trigonometry and then add 50% fudge factor. There are adjustable force ones (I think they come over pressured and you can let N2 until it is correct) but they are twice the price....
  3. Cat weazel is talking piers, not tiers; they are concrete blocks with stainless threaded bar on them that buildings inspectors insist timber framers use to prevent the building blowing away. Five Degree Piers - Cast concrete foundation piers
  4. ooh, it's within 5 miles of me. Bit out my budget though.....
  5. where are you? I got chatting to someone who does Westcountry grants @ 40%. I can't remember what the minimum spend was (£8k?) but it was out of my budget as a farmer with a little log business on the side. I guess that's what it is there for, to keep part timers like me from toying around ....
  6. Belated Update: Finallly got my mate to show me how to strip it down to the oil pump - it was really gummed up...... Since this, the same thing happened again when I was using it on its side to tidy up a stump in the bank. I am glad it didn't happen five minutes earlier when I was halfway through the felling cut..... Now I know to only use it on one side (ie engine above bar, not below) - is this the same with all saws?
  7. Within 5 hours it was running for 10 minutes, then failing. Had it fixed and then it was fine for say 20 hours then it would not stop(!?!) the only way to stop it was to turn on the choke to stall it. I bought it from Mole Valley Farmers - a half hour drive away but they were really helpful. Unfortunately they do not repair chainsaws and the well known Exeter firm who do took weeks and weeks. I was talking about a small claims court when I got it back. Bought a Bosch electric chainsaw to keep me going so I didn't run out of firewood and I have to say that has defied all expectations - brilliant! Someone told me it was a known fault with those saws but MVF said (not unreasonably) that Husq were not a company to put known faulty saws on the market. Since then it has been good until now. The farm has a big old Husqy, now failed but hung on for years because people reached by choice for the little Stihl. This Stihl lost compression after say 10-15 years and then the next one siezed after half that. I know that is a fair long time, but they don't get much use on the farm.... I honestly can't recommend either Stihl or Husq.... at what point does the industry go the way of the motorbike industry and everyone buys cheap, reliable Japanese ones?
  8. I've got the same problem on my 440e - it is three years old with farm use and was fine till last month. Oil pours out when bar is off and there is a little bit of oil flick. Not as much as the old Husqy beast (circa 1980) but I thought that was just more exact oil metering after 30 years progress and non flick oil. I hope I haven't warped the bar - I've just coughed up for a new one and the same thing is happening, so that would be two ruined. I've got a quick tensioner and I'm a bit weedy so I doubt I am doing it too tight. Each time I clean the whole lot assidiously but it has happened four or five times now. Deformation of the rubber would fit, though, seeing as I have replaced the bar and oil comes out when it is off ... haven't changed the chain but it only has 10% wear. BTW, I've been cutting fresh sycamore and then half seasoned oak and ash and not at crazy angles (that was my other thought).
  9. you're absolutely right, pembswood - lift it into place and then connect up. But that makes me think ..... I've got an old right angle drive here from a shape saw attachment for an obsolete hedgetrimmer - I could weld on some Cat I pins and give the whole machine a 90 degree twist .....
  10. I can't get the tractor in there.... we're very small scale livestock farmers, so no arable equipment I like the idea of an adjustable fence conveyor. have to find a single phase one, though. so, how heavy is a m^3 of hardwood? would I be better off with builders dumpy bags?
  11. I use Scholl Cracked Heel Repair Cream (yes, on my hands), vaseline (a couple of times a day) and then barrier cream before I get working (when I remember). This may sound like I have it sorted. I don't. My hands are in pieces at the moment - you know those cuts into your fingerprints that just never heal?
  12. Hi, this is my first post so forgive me if I am covering old ground but I have trawled around the forum fairly extensively. I am thinking of buying a rotary processor such as the MottiMaster or the Klapi-Tuiko - incidentally, is one a rebranded version of the other as they seem very similar? - as the look of the finished product is not important, we are not going to sell any, it is just for four properties on two farms. And I like the simplicity. I wanted a conveyor to get to the back of the barns we use (they are too low for tractors and machinery so we use them for logs) but as my helpful wife pointed out - how to get the conveyor in through low doorways (6'6" to 7'6") when it is side mounted? If it was rear mounted you could just reverse in.... This made me think of filling those m^3 bags and .... oh, you're ahead of me here....so how am I going to get these into the barns? No level floors so no pump trucks. I guess I am stretching in with the loader. What weight is one of these bags? Our loader is only an MF135 trip loader but it has unloaded 600kg fert bags off a flat bed before....NB not recommended. so this would be three questions: any glaring issues with the rotary processors? how do you manoevre a side conveyor? how heavy is a jumbled filled m^3 of, let's say, wet hardwood? oh, a fourth question - should I have split this post into three?

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