openspaceman

I think so but what would be the pattern at 100 yards? A helium balloon tethered on cotton may be a cheaper way to test the theory.

Yes but that shot only has to rise to the top of its trajectory and then carry on at a similar rate as the muzzle velocity to target. Fired vertically it is constantly under the effect of gravity until it reaches its apogee when its velocity has reduced to zero, it then falls to the ground under gravity less its wind resistance. So at what heigh has BB still got 100fps, which is probably enough to do damage and how many balls in the target drone? That depends on their terminal velocity, a .303 tumbling in free fall is reckoned to do 300mph, easily enough to kill as the painter's family a few miles from Bisley found. BTW your Browning sounds naughty.

Yes same with me, I have only experienced 40C abroad and wondered if I would survive to get back to blighty.

I've only experience of mains, internet wired cameras (accessible from my android phone)and a "dog sitting" app on the phone. I had the same problem with spiders and decided it was the infra red leds that surrounded the lens that caused the back scatter from sppider's webs so if I did it again I would have separate lighting and disable the leds.. Recording time with 6 cameras and 1 TB of hard disc and motion detection,was about 3 weeks. Worst problem was back tracking to find when a theft took place and it was easier if there was an external event which was timed to help isolate the incident. Having a hard drive that could be swapped and viewed externally would have also made life easier.

The problem with an oil bath filter is that it fails unsafe, once overloaded with dust it allows more through, which is why most modern engines have paper element filters which gradually block as they become contaminated. Ideally you should place a paper element filter after the oil bath but this of course hinders the air intake somewhat.

Doesn't exist any more and probably excluded commercial use anyway

There are no backplates so yes it will need the stub axles cutting off and having OEM braked stub axles welded on. I have contacted the importers for parts but they have declined to supply either a complete bogey or the stub axles but they are a well known brand of axles. I'm torn between cam operated ones with external rams as supplied OEM or internal hydraulic actuators as fitted to more modern equipment.

ATA' can be parked on the road with the towing vehicle attached, if detached the wheels must be prevented from rolling by a brake, chain or chocks.

As I said Exempt from having brakes. Aside from the lawfulness I wouldn't consider building a mobile mill without brakes as it is far too restrictive, if it weighs over 750kg no ordinary road going vehicle may tow it, it can only be used on strictly forestry or agricultural jobs and it's simply not as safe as one with brakes. When I worked as an agricultural salesman for a year ( that was one of a few others I left out of my career synopsis on another thread) we would deliver balers, which had no brakes, behind the works truck, we never got stopped and at 24 years old I never questioned the legality. As a further aside I used a 9tonne timber trailer which had no brakes, I only towed it on the road unladen and would have tried to use the ATA exemption if I was ever stopped but I wasn't. I'm actively researching fitting brakes now, it appears in the thread post pictures of your tractors care of @farmer rod

Yes this was why I used the stihl 2t in the old days, when my saws were mostly husky, but no reason not to use a higher spec oil on the new generation saws, I just wish it was red rather than blue for the above reason.

I had a quick read and that only seems to apply to trailers built prior to 1940s and less than 4 tonnes, even then it looks like speed is below 10mph. I don't think it's relevant in this case.

Yes I think so. They would be well suited to the crossdraught gasifier batch loaded device like the Kob or Baxi (Tarm in US) but I have not seen any of these with a window, mainly because they are all wet systems. The firm I worked for fitted a couple of these in Petersfield. They would also suit a masonry heater where about 60kg of wood is loaded, top lit and allowed to burn out intensely, the heat then emanating from the stone work till the next batch is loaded and fired. http://heatkit.com/

Yes this is the technique we used for loading branch loggettes on the narrowboat and a Morso squirrel. In my childhood we had a hod with phurnacite The technique was a thrust into the rayburn with a sudden stop for the coals to eject into the fire.

I may have missed some posts in the thread as I have been away and was responding from my cellphone. AFAICS any agricultural trailer over 750kgs must have brakes. The exception is for an Agricultural Trailed Appliance which did not require brakes or suspension if they weighed less than 1420kgs, did not exceed 20mph and did not carry a load. If more than one axle then compensation (like a pivoting bogey) is required to keep all wheels on the road. Now some C&U regs may have been changed to allow for the increase in speed for ordinary tractors from 20mph to 25mph, I cannot see that atm. I'd be interested to see where you can see other trailers over 750kg behind a tractor can be unbraked.

Yes it is possible for a trailed agricultural implement but pushing the boundary a bit

https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/category-b-driving-licence-derogation-for-alternatively-fuelled-commercial-vehicles already France and Germany are at the proposed 4.25 tonnes for electric on a B licence I'm told

Where can I buy Aspen Diesel??

Que? Yes and if it was planted with oak in tubes at 3m spacing and abandoned it may be too crappy. OTOH I had the job of razing to the ground an abandoned agricultural field in Essex that had been dug over after a mortar bomb killed a child playing. The place was shut up from the public most days for 60 years and had a quality stand of ash with birch over 20m tall.

It's too difficult to be specific and being 300 miles south I've no idea of the sort of woodland but yes in general I agree, though out of date with prices. The OP asked for someone to measure and value standing timber, is it something Newton Rigg students may do as an exercise? Measuring volumes is reasonably straightforward. It's something anyone could do with reference to FC booklet 39, also Jo Ellis's FC booklet is a good start https://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/so-you-own-a-woodland.pdf/$FILE/so-you-own-a-woodland.pdf There are some caveats though, I was recently milling in a gill woodland of about the same size where there had been windthrow in 87. Nearly every remaining tree had bark damage from being used as turning posts at the top of the banks and rot has set in over the last 30 years, the owners simply had no idea that this was malpractice and hadn't considered the damage or long term cost. Another Institutional owner with some extensive PAWS wanted to maximise their return on heavy crown thinning and glade creation and set up a contract with a high price per tonne of timber removed. I got to do the clearing up after the chosen contractor felled the softwoods and creamed off the sawlogs to 8" top diameter and left everything else, so as not to have to pay for the poorer grades.

like it

I started with them them but 11 years earlier. The company was formed by an accountant, Rankin IIRC, who saw a loophole between schedule B and D forestry land.

Yes this is a common theme here but we are a self selected group. I found the village idiot's story came so close to mine except I didn't get involved with chemicals, don't have the sense of humour, I stayed at Sibley and pre-date him by 30 years. I could have had a job in the girlfriend's father's firm but wouldn't cut my long curly locks so not allowed airside. I fell upon forestry as being fairly benign to the environment and got a job but being financially naive (still am) didn't realise it was just a tax avoidance scheme for the rich. Learned my basics of establishment there but lack of accommodation meant I had to leave and take a farm job with tied accommodation for my little family of two girls. Fell out with the owner and descended on my mother for 18 months while I went self employed buying standing timber and doing planting jobs. Without 3 year's accounts there was no chance of a mortgage so looked to rent for the rest of my life. Unbeknownst to me my partner borrowed money from her father and bought the house I sit in typing this post. It took me five years before I could get a mortgage and pay him back. I spent the next 27 years as a tree work contractor, getting more involved with harvesting after the 87 storm working with one or two employees and constantly in debt to the bank. With the loss of sawmills to sell to and when my last employee left on the day I had a serious tractor related injury I diversified into biomass and occasional forwarding for other firms. Finally after we had liquidated a business I had formed with 2 others selling biomass technology without much commercial success and the bankruptcy of the firm I snagged boilers for I took a job for a miserable 7 years with a railway vegetation company, After an unfair round of management redundancies in 2016, which I survived, I decided to retire but still occasionally help out an arborist friend from 30 years ago in the run up to his retirement.

I'm not surprised they suggested not doing it yourself as it tends to be bolted directly onto a manifold between the reservoir and electric motor. If you look at the tipping electrics you can usually see what looks like a starter motor, this is bolted to a manifold and the pump is bolted the opposite side of the manifold. You probably won't see the pump as that is often submerged in the reservoir which is also the other side from the motor.

Yes but don't let that put you off, you've tried stick welding so know a bit about that, it's been pointed out that flux cored mig isn't as good as it first seems and Doobin has suggested the different ways to buy gas. Unlike Doobin I have had trouble using mig out doors but that may well be to do with my dyspraxic hand eye coordination, just make sure the steel you are welding is clean of rust and oily marks.

Yes Yes I think you are right but I tend to use an inverter stick welder for convenience as there's minimal equipment and preparation. When I first started welding in a blacksmith's shop near Swansea around 1971 we only had a 180A oxford transformer and oxy-acetylene so I'm more comfortable with these but latterly at work a big 3ph mig did everything, the fitters use an argn CO2 mix as while it has less penetration than CO2 it gives a cleaner weld. As I understand it TIG and stick welders use a constant current and mig uses constant voltage, so I'm trying tig with my inverter stick welder but it lacks AC for welding aluminium but worse is, though I can start the arc with scratching the electrode, there's no facility to stop it without withdrawing the electrode and hence also removing the gas. A dedicated tig welder starts the arc without touching and ramps down the current whilst maintaining the gas shield to the hot weld.