openspaceman

Strangely the piston crown away from the exhaust side looks a nice tan brown. It looks like it melted rather than impact but over protruding plug could explain the hot spot.

I wonder if the use of carbide chain is significant, from my limited experience of it it provides less resistance so revs go up and you tend to press harder. If the saw is running lean it would tend to rev higher than it should anyway.

9 hours ago, daveatdave said:

the only problem with nuclear is disposing of the waste.

The problem with nuclear fission is the capital cost and the storing of waste, they are simply too expensive in the face of renewables becoming relatively cheaper.

It worked okay, seemed a long time but may only have been the ten minutes.

I'm left wondering how well I did though.

I will give it a whirl then

Star shake in oak seems more common on the poorer sandy soils, I was told it was   an adaptation to drought. It doesn't seem to be present on young vigorous trees, even on our sandy heath.

Beams from a shook oak were still accepted for groynes on the beaches south of here.

Often when felling a tree with shake you get sprayed with a mixture of sawdust and tannin stained water that has collected in the shake.

8 hours ago, Bolt said:

The vicinity zone of it is 1m, so to put it highly simply, nothing should intrude on this clearance.  To maintain that clearance most DNOs would specify cutting more to allow for the inevitable regrowth.

 

They used to call it resilience cutting, to allow for up to five year's growth. In this case I guess it will only give them two year's grace.

It looks like it is grafted  and the rootstock is sending up shoots.

They will need to be removed but not until mid summer to lessen risk of silverleaf.

9 hours ago, dig-dug-dan said:

This is all well ang good, but what about hen we have electric trucks that  already weigh 3.5tonnes due to battery weight?

Commercial EVs will have a gross weight allowance of 4.2 tonnes I suppose, same as the driving licence IIRC

16 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:

Once towed it back to yard with pick up one day in late January when it was raining about 12 mile, kept stopping every mile or so for first 4 or 5 mile to check temp of tyres and no heat generating in em so just carried on steady away,,

I would not be worried about a burst, more about getting pulled over.

The diamonds on the face or the wheel won't get any use and those on the edge too much.

When I was at work I used to ask the builders for their diamond discs because I found the faces had some use for standard teeth  after the edges were no good for cutting bricks etc.

17 minutes ago, spuddog0507 said:

there the same wheels n tyres i ended up with and TBH they have lasted well, i would go for tandem axel as apposed to single axle, it will travel better , much more stable and wont make any where near as much mess as a single axel, photos above are 1 is in its first chapter wjth the shit 6psi tyrs on it and designed to be used for behind a quad, the rest are as it is now, and one thing about building it yourself is you can build it as you want it, hope this helps you out ,, 

Much the same as on my Jussi  and I doubt most would want to run down the road with them, not least with a digger, but the tyres are marked not for highway use.

56 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

UA1 at least, which is basic electrical awareness and only 2 days.

One day in my case as no one else turned up. Interesting subject though, I still look out for pairs of lines on wooden poles to estimate the voltage.

I never got any further as I got retired.

1 hour ago, peds said:

Nah, can't be, there's no shiny foil lid on it...

The tits locally have forgotten how to peck through the foil. I suppose there are far less opportunities to learn now.

42 minutes ago, Will C said:

Is that part steel or Ali? It could be possible to build the lug up with weld and grind it back if you have the kit to do so, I doubt it would be viable to pay someone to do it tho.  
 

 

That was my thought if it is steel or. if the clamping is tight enough, do away with the tightening system and tension it by hand, then clamp.

I was referring to the circlips that have tangs on them, I dislike them because of the OP's sort of failure. I was musing about how orientation may affect how metal fatigue may cause the tang to break off in use.

I don't have enough experience of stripping a lot of saws so I do not know if circlips with tangs are used on original builds. My limited experience with Stihl and Husky saws is the OEM circlips have no tangs, so I stick with them.

Yes it is important that the circlip has expanded into the groove firmly.

I have yet to see the tool for inserting circlips without tangs  that @adw uses but plainly the ones with tangs can be abused and bent getting them out and in with a pair of pliers.

11 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

Yes my guess is that I messed up the clip on installation 2.5 years ago.

 

I wonder if the orientation of the tang makes a difference, my thought is if it is vertical it suffers a bit less bending stress than horizontal so could fatigue would be less.

6 hours ago, slack ma girdle said:

If it was fire damage ,  i would expect to see alot more damage to the base of the tree to correspond with the levels of damage higher up. I don't think squirrels like horse chestnut, so i would be heading for some form of canker, or kids

The base of the tree doesn't seem to get damaged by fire unless the fire actually burns it. Most of the damage is done when radiant heat breaks down the proteins in the cambium and the characteristic pattern of necrosis tends to look like an assegai spear blade, broadly curved at the base and tapering out at the top

6 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

I fitted the first meteor p&c, using the original stihl circlips. 

Strange, the few stihl saws I took apart the gudgeon pin circlips had no tangs.

1 hour ago, sime42 said:

 

True but how often do they differentiate in the various air quality assessments that get done?

 

I still can't believe that wood burners are the worst offenders for causing particulate pollution, as a few studies have claimed recently.

I don't know, just pointing out they can.

I don't believe the pollution from a modern wood stove is as bad as they say either.

2 hours ago, Puffingbilly413 said:

It's all combustion be it from an engine or a stove, no?

Yes I don't think they differentiate particulates from different types of carbonaceous fuels but they do tell the difference from particulates from brake and tyre abrasion because of their chemistry.

Misread it was for the grinder

1 hour ago, sime42 said:

Domestic wood burning is probably the scapegoat for particulates coming from our roads

Particulates  from combustion have a different chemical signature from other particulates.

57 minutes ago, nepia said:

Scrap all road tax except for ev's (which can be taxed low) and put a penny more tax on fuel.  The more you use the roads the more you pay towards their so called upkeep.

Most EVs do not pay any fuel tax (other than the 5% VAT on domestic electricity) as they charge from home. So increasing fuel duty just increases costs for older cars that then get scrapped early (don't get me into what silly faults make a car uneconomic to repair). With 2% penetration of EVs into the pool of cars it won't be long before they devise a road usage tax.

5 hours ago, Steven P said:

Beech will coppice so if it is cut low should regrow? Not sure the best time of year for that though - might be leaving it a bit late this year.

It depends on the provenance (genotype) and perceived wisdom is that it needs to be done when the stem is less than 35 years old.

21 minutes ago, Stan1664 said:

Hello I can’t find one as yet I have asked on a few groups but no response yet.

It may help if people know the rough location.