herco

9 hours ago, gand said:

How many Mk3 t540 has he sold to be making that decision? 

dont know.

I had 5 T540 pre 2017 al were good, never any problem , i got a very good price and in 2017 traded them for 5 new one's.

Most of the time 3 saws are in for repairs. ( carb tuning not ok, carb not ok, mosty pistonrings are  worn after like 10 hrs!)

On 23/10/2023 at 07:12, Stubby said:

Did your stolen T540 not run stationary ?

nop, none of them did/does.

im not the only one. dealer is fed up with the model, absolutly does not want to sell one any more

So last week  all my xp 395's, XP562's , 540T etc got nicked, broke into car and shed 😒

Im in doubt what to do next.

Husky dealer is verry close and exelent service.

But he doesnt want to sell 540T anymore Due to problems with the platform ( saws wont run stationary after few hours)

the petrol tophandle he offers alternative doesnt do it for me , too clumsy.

2nd i cut as a subby and that firm has a 500i, husky nor stihl has any saw to rival it.

what should you do in my case , ( looking for 2 battry tophandle's ,2 petroltophandles , 2 50-60CC saws ,2 80-90CC saws to get started again.

( totaly no experience whith the new husky's and and tonne of chains , but then there is the unrivalled 500i wich i fell in love whith.

any idea's tips?

not looking for flame wars but decent advice 

€100-110

Have the same problem with ch380, just reverse for a few seconds.

pellenc and felco here;

pellenc lighter, more ergonomic

felco cuts larger diameter .

like the pellenc most use them for (re)knotting trees of the municipality

4 hours ago, Tommy_B said:

 

I'm a bit intrigued to the circumstances that would cause an ART ropeguide and a rope to be left in the tree for that length of time. I do remember a redirect pully being left in a tree for a few months before we climbed it again and found it. I'd be dubious of using those items again to be quite honest with you. Unless they were bought brand new on the morning they were left there, they will have made their own cost back so I would lean towards just replacing them. 

Art was al tangled up in tree.

Agreed with client he could do the cleanup first.

Then he got ill, afterwards i broke my wrist, and then we forgot about it😅

thanks ; was not worried about uv since it was olny cannopy reduxion.

More about the combi freeze/wet rope.

Due to circumstances i left in summer 2021

a brand new climbingrope and art achor in a tree, wich i recoverd now. 

Should the gear still be considerd safe? ( seen freeze when wet), kit still looks tidy, ropes souple.

The store did not dare to answer.

Anny testing methods?

thanks

ulefone, built very strong (average phones last 8 months, ulephone 1.5 years min )

now thinking nokia xr20

t540i  !!

2 hours ago, Khriss said:

Berti mulcher @herco ? K

No serrat FX 6

My 2 boys

Both T173 reverse drive and chipped to 220hp.

one is fitted with reinforced pto, ( 1000rpm only) mulcher burns standard clutch in less than a day

the welding is just hard facing , i do it on all area's where i see wear.

the knive holder is indeed craced due to it being smashed against the counterblade

Anvil was ok , so new bearings and bearinghousing?

ill post some pics , it seems to be flywheel that moves forward for about 0.5cm

My schliesing keeps breaking knives,

when i feed a large piece of wood  ( 6" or ca 16cm) the blade gets pulled forward and grabs/ smashes the counterknife.

Never happend before , now 2 times in a row, bearings should be ok ( replaced 100 h ago)

No wobble on the flywheel.

distance between knives an counterknives aprox 2-3mm

last time the kniveholder sheard a bit of.

anny tips / ideas?

thanks

X2 for vw amarock

we have cl260, rocks

i have found my old airstreams more dureable , my last 2 pairs didnt last that long.

Seems like quality went down.

Anyone else has this? 

10 hours ago, Gray git said:

We have a niubo flail on our e26 and really can't fault it, I've pushed it far more than intended and apart from smashing one flail off it on a lump of metal it's done everything we have asked.
When we upgraded our bigger excavator in the new year I'll be looking at another for this probably with a cage rotor.

anny idea of the make

bump , hyundai cr 6-9 here

not looking for FAE , that price was ridiculous £10.600 ex vat

we have a large fixed tooth serrat FX6 but for the smaller jobs looking for a flail , (cleaning sites after chipping)

what is recomended?

On 30/11/2020 at 07:31, Gardenequipment said:

Thank you for your reply Bernard.

I've always liked the idea of a hydraulic driven cutting head, no belts to tighten! An extra 25 hp is quite a bit more horsepower. I had a Predator 56 on demonstration about a year ago, I felt there wasn't a huge amount of difference between the petrol 38 and the 56 model. I would have thought Predator would have been better off making a more powerful machine to justify the extra cost. I know that to drive a hydraulic motor you do lose a bit of horsepower which to me makes the difference between the two machines even smaller, especially for the extra and considerable cost involved.

Can you have the hydraulic pump turned up to increase the track power, or is this not possible?

Have a great week.

Roy

experimented a bit last week, seems like the valve block is restricting the oil flow a lot , when used direct the tracs have a lot more power an it drives way faster.

im thinking the valveblock is out of proportion to the oil flow, bigger block costs around €2500 though

3 hours ago, Gardenequipment said:

Thank you for your reply, it's appreciated.

 

That's amazing as I thought on a Predator 75, having the extra power, I thought you might break more bolts. I've often wondered if a soft bolts may not be so brittle and less likely to break, just a thought.

 

Out of interest how do you find your Predator 75, I don't think you can buy this machine you any more, just the 56 hp model?

 

Have a good weekend.

 

Roy

cant speak for the 56, but the 50 vs 75 is a world of diffirence! almost 2 times as fast.

not happy with the track gear though, it is the same as the 50 , its is seriously underpowerd.

one of these days will put other base below it , lager assymetrical tracs ,longer tracs, stronger drivetrain motors and 10 cm more groundclaerence.

also engine is not rated to work on steep slopes

when the machine is worn out ill look into a lighter mahine for the smaller jobs and for larger jobs id go with a system that enables working on slopes, fast swappeble attachements ( stumpgrinder, smal forestry mulcher, winch)

something like the pfanzelt moritz but with more HP.

Moritz price is outrageous though.

bernard

On 27/10/2020 at 07:47, Gardenequipment said:

Thank you for your reply Will, it's appreciated.

That's amazing that you haven't sheared a bolt in five years, I'm amazed that I haven't sheared a bolt in seven days, that's almost a record for me! I really like the Multi-Tip set up, I have used finger teeth and green teeth in the past, however, Multi Tip is my preferred setup. It's just frustrating with the bolts shearing.

I like your idea of driving the teeth and the holder right home, this sounds like a good idea. I'm aware that dirt can also become embedded in the pockets and cause the teeth to to not tighten fully. I will give your idea a try, thank you.

I hear you regarding your second point, I will check this out.

I actually used the torque wrench to tighten up the bolts that came with my original machine.

I still wonder if my cutting head has been hardened properly as it almost appears that the wheel is slightly stretched. In other words, when the wheel is new, the teeth and pocket seem to fit nice and snugly, as time goes on the slots on the wheel seem to open up fractionally causing a fractional bit of play.



 

Also never sheared a bolt of, Just use 8.8 one's. On predator 75.

Its all in the proper mounting and torquing.

Well a lot of broken of tips and execcisive waer on some teeth.

Last 3 changes welded some abrasive site on Them winch seems tot help.