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Devonseano

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Everything posted by Devonseano

  1. Thanks for the tip, though from a quick look it looks as though he's a fair way up north from here, like proper up north, not just Plymouth. Haulage etc wouldn't make it economical. Ta, Sean.
  2. Hiya, Yeah can't PM you as your box full. Just responded to your message on my 'forwarder wanted' thread and then saw your one on this thread. It's the same site, not infected (precautionary fell) would be great to tie both jobs into one. Larch mostly complete lengths, not snedded. It's not ideal for extraction as it's kerplunked but it's been systematically felled in a regular pattern so you could extract it by working through it from one end to another. Can send pics if interested. Sean
  3. Hiya,thanks for your message. There are a couple of elements to the job, clearing up windthrow is one, not a huge volume (probably <50m) but widely spaced and we don't have any kit to transport it, but can skid it to track side. We could do with numerous small brash piles being moved into a couple of big ones ready for a burn, hoping a forwarder could do that. Also got up to 300m of larch on the ground which we'd like to get to the entrance, though we're also loking at other ways of doing that (see my post in the Firewood Forum). It's a bitty job and I appreciate that there'd be haulage costs to consider but can't really think of another way of getting it done. Looking at doing the work in spring when it's (hopefully) drier. I think a small forwarder would be best knowing the volumes and the site - what have you got? Thanks.
  4. Hiya, I have approx. 300m3 of larch on the ground, felled by Western Power contractors as it's next to a power line. Extraction a bit awkward but possible, and not directly under the power lines - highest bidder? It's in Cornwall, nr St Austell. Cheers, Sean.
  5. Morning, Does anybody know of a forwarder and driver I might be able to hire on a day rate in Cornwall please? Probably about a weeks work. Thanks, Sean.
  6. Thanks for responses everyone. Hi Murray, no, no Huskys in our workshop since I've been here so must have died early 2000's. A couple of old Echos we've just traded in. The problem we have is that we run mostly MS240's and 260's. They're not getting daily use atall, mostly winter use, relatively short days and not a full week. We never seem to have a full set of saws up and running at one time, and two of our 240's need (relatively) big investment to get them back up and running, new pistons etc. Can't remember exactly but maybe 4 years old? I would expect more from a pro standard saw myself, just wondered what other peoples experiences are. We're not really loyal to a brand, just what we're used to, but think we'll try a Husky next time we replace one. Would the 345XP be the equivalent Husq saw? Or any suggestions of a different Stihl with similar power/weight qualities? The workshop question is to get second opinions on the poorly saws! Thanks again.
  7. Alright Bill, We're Truro area, but we'd travel the County if necessary. Cheers.
  8. Oregon stuff generally, if not Husq or Stihl.
  9. Hiya, A couple of questions to throw in the mix: What would you expect the working life of a chainsaw to be before it needed scrapping or a major overhaul? It's a bit of a piece of string question so a few more details: A pro level saw (in the Stihl world 240/260 upwards) If it had daily use in the working week If it had been maintained with no particular abuse/cock ups Also, can anyone recommend a good repair/tuning workshop in Cornwall? Cheers all, Devonseano.
  10. Thanks for suggestions. I've been informed by a couple of people that it's a model/era specific part I need so not over keen on speculating on a standard 066 coil as I'm told it won't work. Cheers.
  11. Hiya, Our 066 needs a replacement coil. Two workshops have told me it's not possible to get one for that particular model anymore, and further info is that the saw is an 066 Magnum Red Eye, with an LED indicating rev limiting or something (don't really understand it). Much more widespread in the States for a while, but probably only imported here for a short time hence difficulty getting one. So: A - Anyone know where I can get the part from? (none on E-Bay international at the moment), or B - Would anybody like to buy the saw for parts/collectors item!? Cheers, Devonseano
  12. Thanks all Useful comments as always!
  13. Hiya, We're clearing cherry laurel and rhodie and the arisings will be burned on site. I'd like to get some views on the safety of this given that laurel, and I think rhodie, gives of cyanide when burned. Does anyone think this would be a significant problem for the health of operators, given that it will be a large quantity? Would anyone refuse to do it on these grounds? Do you know if its both plants which give cyanide off? Is anyone aware of any official guidance/COSHH assessments out there for this? Extraction for firewood not an option in this case! Many thanks, Devonseano.
  14. PS: I've been to a demo of Moor Heats' bio-baler. It's really impressive, saw it used on rhodie working around established oak woodland. Not sure it'd work on a lot of our firebreaks though as sward too grassy for a mulcher - we're somewhere in between mowing and mulching I recon.
  15. Thanks for all your replies. Interesting reading. Natural England locally have the same Softrack setup, I may ask them for a rate. It would however have the same basic problem as our current machine, albeit with a bigger hopper. It sounds like forage harvesters of varying types have been used for similar jobs so not too far fetched, I suppose it's just finding the right one. As the established breaks are cut every year there's not too much to dispose of so blasting it into the ether would be an option, but on new breaks following even with a landy and tipper trailer could work and be quicker than current method. I recon we need a bigger tractor though. Cheers, Sean.
  16. Hiya, I'm trying to come up with an ideal machine for cutting firebreaks on heathland. The cuttings need to be removed from the break for it to be effective. The established breaks are mostly grasses with young heather and gorses - c. 1yo, so very small. New firebreaks would be more of the same but much denser and up to 4' high in places. We currently use a Rytec flail collector on a 46hp Massey which does a good job but needs emptying so often it's really slow. The ground is uneven and rocky in places so 3pt linkage mounted machine would be ideal. In the past we've cut with the flail collector lid off and the cuttings have been blown into the air and away off the break if the wind is in the right direction, not always the case. I was thinking of a beefed up forage harvester to blast the cuttings in any given direction, and came across a: Kuhn TRP 145 CV - google it as I've only got a large pdf with it in. It looks good, but is not cheap (c. £10k) and requires a higher powered tractor than ours (we could hire one for the job but not ideal). Any thoughts on this, or alternative suggestions would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Sean Cornwall Wildlife Trust
  17. Thanks for your comments. I hadn't thought of MVF Dartmoor, worth a bell for sure. Garth, Something like: Intermediates - 5'6" 3-4" round x 2000 Strainers - 8' by 8" pointed x 100 Actual order would be more detailed than that, a few variations but would be good to get an idea on price. Will need from about 2 weeks. I'd be interested to know a price per item. To be honest though please only price it if you can do it easily as I've tracked down a supplier who's doing a competitive price already who I'm fairly happy with. It's the other questions I asked which I'm struggling with more and I wouldn't want to waste your time. Shipping could add 40-70p per stake if I'm not careful - would I need to arrange shipping from you? Thanks for your time.
  18. Hiya, I'm planning a stock fencing job using sweet chestnut for the strainers and intermediates etc. A couple of questions if anyone's got experience of this please: I'm planning on using 3-4" round intermediates for a more 'conventional' look. Do you know whether cleaved profiles would give a significantly longer life because there's less sapwood? I'd expect a better lifespan but need to judge whether it's significantly better - hoping 3-4" thick enough to balance this out. Bark on seems to blend into the landscape much better, do you know how much this would reduce the lifespan of the fence? Can anyone recommend a good supplier? Shipping is down to Cornwall so will need bulk to keep transport down. Many thanks!!
  19. Thanks all for the advice, all v useful and I'll get it out in the woods. Cheers!
  20. Hiya, New user, great forum! This query doesn't seem to fit the equipment categories so thought I'd put it here: I've just got a 5t Igland snatch block for use with a 3.5t winch, and I have a couple of questions about it if anyones got a minute: The block has no WLL/SWL/rating marked on it at all, nothing but an Igland sticker. If the block isn't being used for lifting, only dragging, doesn't it need anything like this, and by the same argument does it not need a 6 month competent persons examination under LOLER? Also, If the block is being used to double up it can double the pulling capacity of the winch, IE: 7t. Does this mean that the block would be under rated for this? When I was looking for a block most forestry ones were 3t/5t/8t with the 8t ones being quite weighty. Given that our winch is relatively light for forestry work it seems unlikely that we'd need an 8t - what does everyone else do? Many thanks for your time. Cheers, Devonseano.

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