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Posts posted by billpierce
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Anyone have a schematic of a 200mx? Thanks
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5 hours ago, doobin said:
Got as far as fitting one to a nice big backplate that drops over the blade. Never tested it. A couple of years later ended up with a PTO winch and compact tractor!
What size machine are you looking for one for?
id love to see some pictures if you can find any. or any info in the winch etc
thanks
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7 minutes ago, doobin said:
Got as far as fitting one to a nice big backplate that drops over the blade. Never tested it. A couple of years later ended up with a PTO winch and compact tractor!
What size machine are you looking for one for?
Kubota kx41 1.7t
Just wrestling with buying a 30hp iseki with loader any buying a winch or just getting a winch for digger
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On 01/12/2010 at 11:37, doobin said:
Thanks for the ideas chaps. Yes, definately going to be hydraulic. Might join a speed winching 4x4 nut forum or something, see what they reccommend. MileMarkers look good but can't find any for sale?
I know it's been a while. Did you get anywhere with this?
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1 hour ago, doobin said:
What size machine do you have that on? I worry that on a 1.7t machine I'll use half its lift capacity with a fixed rotating grab
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so it seems that a decent hydraulic thumb from jb equipment or digbits is about the same as a decent tined grab from the same. am i correct thinking a grab will be slightly better at grabbing? charging into brash with etc....i imagine a thumb wont be as useful for gripping brash? i got the digger to do a load of jobs on the farm - i dont do any landscaping so imagine if it comes on a job itll be doing arb only
thanks
appreciate everyone input
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1 hour ago, Slicer Dicer said:
Stacking timber with a small machine and no rotator is all about working strategically. Work in parallel to the timber stack etc or using the offset boom to get it how you want it. As doobin said its not a forwarder but it will happily stack up timber all day long.
I'm a big fan of a hydraulic thumb myself for general purpose work. I can stack timber, rake and grab brash, move rocks around etc and it's always there when I need it, is very robust if you go for the right one and costs little. It's a superb tool for grubbing out and moving stumps etc too.
I have a few intermercato fixed grabs and a larger rotating grab but if I only had one it would be the thumb purely for versatility and convenience👍
What thumb do you have? Ta
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8 hours ago, doobin said:
Option 1- you mean a grapple with a backstay? If you make this backstay hydraulic it becomes surprisingly versatile, allowing you reach right out or bring the weight back right under the boom. You can knock lengths into the right angle to pick them up- I did five years with one and became surprisingly adept at it. Very good at handling lumps of concrete etc. But a basic fixed backstay grapple was £400 ten years ago so not sure where you get that figure of £260 from?
Option 2- with a dangle mount rotator, you'll still have the problems of adding a second pair of aux lines that you allude to in option 3. OK for handling timber but limited on a 1.7t. Massively increases the stack height, you won't be able to swing very long lengths about. Momentum will rock a little digger about.
Option 3- you will need a 'fixed' rotator- that is to say, one that is axially rated for the load. This will cost you £1200 on its own so I'm not sure where you get the overall figure from? Most versatile, you can grub out things and reach out further with it, subject to the limits of a 1.7t machine. If running a fixed rotator then you need to spend on a decent grab too, Kelfri will just bend as soon as you show it a reasonable load. The stack height is a big issue here too, 1.7t machines just don't have the lift height as they are desined to dig deep as possible. I speeced short dipper on my Bobbcat E19 and it's still a right pain the in arse compared to the same thing on the E27.
Option 4, which might be best for you, is something like an Intermecato TG12. Picks up on the quick hitch, you can hold it out in front of you or back under the boom (but with lots more leverage acting on it than a grapple). You can mount it in either plane, tines top and bottom or either side. Easy to share between machines. Can be used to grub out and handle concrete.
This is the cheapo 260 one I found
Mini Digger Log Grab
WWW.WSPOWERONLINE.COM
Mini Digger Log Grab made from high quality steel. 25mm Pins85mm Between Pin Centres 90mm...I was imagining I could use the kellfri grab and rotoator on a non swivel bracket but sounds like that's a no go. So either dangling rotator or normal grab or thumb? I feel like a fixed grab would be better for brash but terrible for timber stacking etc.
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Thanks that's really helpful
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Any advice please-
Want some sort grab for my kx41-2 1.7t.
Option 1. Simple straight cheap grab, fixed, can't rotate - £260
Option 2. Cheap kellfri grab, rotates, hangs on a swing link bracket so all floppy. £1200
Option 3 the above but fixed I.e no swing link- requires some extra hydraulic plumbing (maybe rob the boom slew?) . Increases reach and brash grabbing ability? 1200 plus hydraulic messing on.
I'm not experienced enough to know the major advantages/disadvantages. Would appreciate advice etc.
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4 hours ago, Steve Bullman said:
What browser on pc?
Chromium? Which I think is a chrome based thing on Ubuntu. Will try some others when I can
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wayo! cant seem to find any pins on the chipsite directory other than 53 around london?
edit;works fine on chrome on android, not fine on p.c
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40 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:
Thanks Mark. Don't think that easily fits what's on the tractor. It's all a bit new to me don't really understand all the loader type fitments etc
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10 hours ago, MattyF said:
I got a cheap Kelfri one I cut down for the avant and it’s good but metals a bit bendy 👍 … I can’t justify buying a normal timber grab as you can probably carry/ drag brush piles 5 times the size on open sites we are mostly on as you have seen mate.
Would keep large logs steady but not a necessity mate if your gonna put it on the 2650.
Aye it's for the 2650 ( still In garage). I'll see if I can find a kelfri one. Any idea where you got it?
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The other last resort is to pop the brass insert on the rear flat face of the carb and turn to screw 1/8 to 1/4 out
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Please attach pics of chain.
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Run his bar for a bit longer (like a full tank) on some thick wood with your saw. Just to double check
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They fit a 372 fuel hole as well
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Just take the spikes off and test it. Im pretty sure itll have nothing to do with them, but easy enough to test. A sharp chain and decent undamaged bar should cut without the use of the spikes.
Either the bar grooves are worn unevenly forcing the chain to side, or they are burred, or bar is bent. or the chain is incorrect/not sharp/not sharpened evenly/rakers need filing.
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Dont use a a zigzag for srt, but it could be the shackle moving causing more sit back? My tether sits on the side of my hitchclimber on the same krab that fixes it to my bridge so there is no movement.
Schliesing 200mx electrical diagram?
in Maintenance help
Posted
Have emailed them, just
Not got anything back yet. Perhaps they will reply it hasnt been long, thought I'd try here as well.