Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

LoadhandlerUK

Member
  • Posts

    207
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LoadhandlerUK

  1. Nick, thanks

    Tricky.... we've had brackets designed for Ifor Williams trailers by another arbtalk member but have been so busy we haven't manufactured any yet :blush:

     

    We get alot of enquiries for trailers and I can see the benefits. The engineering work is beginning to get a little quiet - we're between projects - so maybe we need to make some.

  2. Loads of threads about this if you do a search but basic its torque you need . Bags of grunt . 30hp minimum I would say . I have one with a single cylinder Honda GX390 which is 13hp I think . its fine on easy splitting stuff like sycamore and it faster than my hydraulic splitter but if you get a bit of gnarly old elm or similar it can stall and you loose all that time cutting it off the cone . A bigger engine producing more torque would sort it . When you use one on a big chunky tractor it does not even blink and just chews through . So don't waste your time and energy unless you have at least 30hp at your disposal . Trust me ! :001_smile:

     

    Just to repeat what Stubby has said. This time of year we're selling two or three Hycracks a week. Lots of people want to run them on compacts and some do but as Stubby has correctly said with anything under 20hp you'll only split small straight grained domestic fire stuff. 20hp upwards will do most of what you want domestically but you'll still struggle or stall the tractor on knotty stuff. 30hp+ will do all you need within reason but I for sure would never run one at 540. 350-450 rpm should be what you should look at depending on wood type and age. There's no need to run it faster.

  3. Our experience of selling many, many Hycracks a year is that there is no substitute for the real thing and horsepower.

     

    Those of you on here with Hycracks will know that their longevity is legendary - the same cannot be said for the copy cones and tips. We've not seen any 'copy' cone that's 10 years old - let alone 30 years. We register the age of every customers machine when they come for spares and many are over 20 years, needing only a tip or bearings. We have several eBay cones brought into us every year that are worn out and the customer wants to convert using a Hycrack cone. Yes it's more expensive - but you buy them once.

     

    I would say that although we have sold to customers with 12 and 17hp Kubota or John Deere type compacts - and lots to grey fergie owners we warn them that the lower the hp, the smaller wood you can split.

     

    Equally the torque must be there. I recommend that people start off at 300-350 rpm and see how it goes. Increasing to 400-450 on good splitting woods. Try splitting tough and knotty at 540 and you'll have a tiger by the tail.

     

    So assuming that price is key over quality and you are going Polish or German - which is fair enough but you'll get what you pay for - make sure you can vary the speed (it's essential in my book) and you can get some low down bangs for your buck torque wise.

     

    And p.s. build it properly - your limbs depend on it.

  4. The estimation route by HMRC is interesting. We had a guy who worked for us who also ran a newsagents staffed by his wife and son. He had a visit one day followed up by correspondence with an estimation of his takings and profit. He 'owed' them £14k in income tax and VAT. It cost him £4k in accountants fees and representations to argue it down to £8k. They had him on toast.

  5. I've read this post - my cuppa's now gone cold - with some amusement and I can't see who's winding up who; the wood for the trees you might say.

     

    Bowlander, have you told the supplier you were unhappy with the load? Seems simple to me if your purchase wasn't as expected? Your choice is to purchase next time from him but with both of you knowing what's expected (and the price will undoubtedly be different) or buy elsewhere.

     

    Seems a non-issue to me :confused1:

  6. i relented tonight and finally lit the fire as it was down to 16 degrees in the living room. i'm trying to just use the fire and not the central heating to save dosh. as a woodturner i've plenty of offcuts to burn so dont need to buy logs.

     

    has anyone else sparked up yet???

     

     

    Thought about it but resisted - put a sweater on instead.

     

    Kindling sales good this week, Hycrack logsplitter sales good and Loadhandler sales also. Winter drawers on tell the wife :knuddel:

  7. 15hp is not enough . Godda be twice that ( re my answer second post )

     

    HI STUBBY your right mate when first started off i had a pto cone splitter i had it on my mf135 it was a good old splitter just keep your eye on things :blushing:thanks jon :thumbup:

     

    We've sold a number of Hycracks to people with Iseki and John Deere compacts and have had good feedback - and perhaps most people's grey fergies when knackered pump out much less than 20hp at the pto.

     

    However I agree with you guys that 30+ is ideal. We run ours either on a 50hp Kubota or our 90hp MF4345.

     

    The real reason for my post was in response to my shiver when I think of people 'cobbling' together machines that could bite them - and badly

     

    Edit: Pete23 - just seen your later post. No offence meant re cobbling - it's just that we've seen some shocking stuff brought into us for 'spares' when the eastern european cones and bearings are knackered. Do it properly, with the right hp and I agree with Stubby that a cone splitter is a good tool

  8. Pete! - don't bother :thumbdown:

     

    Unless you're going to do it properly trying to run one from a petrol engine - and worse an electric motor - is not worth the effort.

     

    You need upwards of 15hp to stand any chance of splitting wood suitable for a fire or woodburner - and it needs to rotate in a controlled manner up to approx 450rpm.

     

    And your £80 cone? - most of the eastern european ones we've seen aren't worth a light long term.

     

    Save your time and money let alone your limbs if you cobble something together.

  9. I have one of these, was doubtful about buying it but for a tenner I cant fault it providing its used on fresh split logs, also use it to test before turning.

     

    Digital Moisture Meter Wood Timber Damp Detector Tester | eBay

     

    I use a CEM meter - was about £30. But I like this one above for a tenner delivered. I'll buy one and compare readings with the CEM and keep it in our other truck.

     

    I like going into pubs (full stop!) and when their fire is dank and hissing and water is p*ssing out the end of the log, telling them that their 'seasoned' wood they bought cheaply has more moisture than wood. :biggrin:

     

    Ok, ok, let me finish my beer before you chuck me out.....:blushing:

  10. Holy crap! Sorry but that price is exactly 4 times (ex vat and delivery) the ones we sell which are 1m3 and have less gappy sides - don't need to be so big imo.

     

    What's the answer? Are these £60 or not? :confused1:

     

    You can get packs of ratchet straps for next to nothing. I have used them before on pallets to strap stuff on. Nice little bonus for the buyer too.

     

    Good idea :thumbup1:

  11. Erm. So long as its decent oil doesn't make a blind bit of difference.

     

    But I'm worried if I should say this so here is the whisper...

     

     

    if you where using aspen there wouldnt be a problem.:lol::lol::lol:

     

    So sounds like they are being tight.

     

    Why does Stihl say their oil mix at 50:1 but other 'decent' TC oil mix at 25:1?

    Seems a radical difference

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.