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Capstankid!

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Posts posted by Capstankid!

  1. How do? Here is a few photos of my first go at milling I built the mill myself. I am using Ganberg 3/8 milling chain and a 42 inch Gb lo pro bar. This may be a stupid question but I am guessing you just use a 7/32 file to sharpen then chain? It just seemed fairly tight so I got the job done but I just need to sharpen the chain now.

    Cheers Joe

    image.jpg.214afb3fc0eea323790b63225722450a.jpg

  2. You can get a 3/8" sprocket-nosed 42" bar as per link to ebay.de

     

    For chain, have a look at chainsawbars.co.uk on the custom chain loops tab. You can then select the chain you want (Stihl, Oregon or Granberg - for a 660 on an overlength bar I would go for Granberg) and enter the number of drive links you need in the pop-up box.

     

    Alec

     

    I can't seem to find it on the German eBay! Any links for quick help?

  3. I am new to the milling side but I have been an arborist for 4 years now and I have made my own Alaskan mill (use to be a fabricator). I am getting sick of logging good timber and I want to mill it insted! I run a 36 inch bar on my 660 but the timber I need to mill is 40 inch and I know i will lose 2 inch so I am looking at running a 42 inch bar but I would like to know if the saw will run it and the best places to get the bars and what kind!

    Cheers Joe

  4. I was wondering if anyone had removed the spark arresters on any of the new husky saws? My questions are did you notice any power difference, I know they sound louder! I use premium fuel now as well to see if that makes any more power! I think it goes better in bigger timber but I am not sure if it is just in my head!

    Cheers Joe

  5. Used one of Clarks in the woods defiantly one off the best things I have used way less work effort and there not heavy at all! I had a look at the price tag and decided to build one myself ended up costing me £86 so it's saved me a few pennies! Changed a couple off things like the screw valve found they come loose easily!

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