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J Holtby

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Everything posted by J Holtby

  1. Not sure I'd have space for double cardan, be just joints no shaft lol
  2. Hola, got a new bus and the linkage arms are alot shorter than before When putting the igland on her I've cut down the shaft to fit but I can't help but slightly wince at the shaft angles Does anyone one else do anything to mitigate this? Offset the winch on the linkage arms when onsite etc? I've done a fair bit of searching online and can't find any obvious examples of this Also had to cut away most of the pto guarding for clearance where it fouls the drum casing, anyone got any ideas to help this? Cheers
  3. It steadily gets worse along the length Panther looks very solid, although the same fundamental design I'm thinking I might knock up a basic purpose built mill just for deep/first cuts, with triangulated bar supports rather than just unsupported legs
  4. Rough Hewn, yes, granberg chain, which Ive found great, but hearing good things about the hyperskip stuff, anyone know what its like? Big J - what do you use now? bandsaw? some of the pieces Ive milled (forks/crowns of trees etc) are over 6ft, what bandsaws are out there that could handle that? Trigger - it took about 15 mins to do that first cut, have to say the 880 is great, but wouldnt know any better! CDMR - Yes, def more of a problem on the deeper cuts, almost unnoticable on 4" cuts, then progressively more so, a tensioning system ontop ala the old school handsaws is a interesting one, but think the main problem is 3 dimensional rather than just a tensioning issue Our standard practice is to get the saw started and engine/bar/chain nice and hot. Then retension chain, loosen end bar clamp to let the bar 'grow' into place, and we make sure its flat as can be when nipping up, but its whats happening in the kerf that I believe to be the issue Custom made mill for big stuff might be the answer and just use the Alaskan for smaller/lighter jobs?
  5. Been having a few issues with the Alaskan mill, and I know I'm pushing it to its limits with a 84" bar, but wondering if anyone has been through this and has a better work around than I do! Had a search through the forums already but as its a bit of a complex issue, not really hit on a similar issue, if its been discussed before, apologies In short, the bar is, for want of a better description, 'sagging' or 'bowing'under cutting, and cutting a minor cup/trough into the wood. I have a feeling its simply flex in the Alaskans legs - as I push the frame along the top, there is resistance at the bar, the legs flex back slightly, pitching the bar down slightly, cutting down into the wood, and the easiest way the mill can accommodate the slight increase in thickness is the bar slowly growing a 'bow' along the woods length To get around this, with 2 people we can evenly push both at frame and bar height, but when cutting solo its a real issue, sometimes the mill totally seizes and binds in the log (this has only happened a couple of times but a huge pain in the ass when it does!) I've got a good router sled set up, so flattening the slabs isn't an issue, but reducing the error at the milling stage would be something Id love to improve upon Cheers for any input, lashed up some pictures, hopefully the one with the level across will illustrate the issue Joe
  6. Some advice please guys, what grab would suit a palfinger pk7000 (can lift a ton out to 6.5m and about 3.5 close in) Most of the big bit we will load with the tractor, but would be nice to to limit ourselves on the tipper. Thanks in advance
  7. Cheers guys, will look for that my hgv thread now
  8. Done a search and struggling to choose what to go for Had heart set on a 2006 LF 45 with pal finger, but it was sold last sat and now searching again On the Isle of Man, and have ruled out canter/Isuzu/cabstar due to the agro of getting parts here So still leaning toward Daf lf45, merc, Iveco or MAN A local truck mechanic said if possible get an older (pre 2002??) lf45 as they have don't have the euro 4 common rail and are more reliable and cheaper to maintain. Any merit in this? I have no reason to not like the Iveco's, but just don't, unless someone can persuade me otherwise? So Mercs and MAN? Any advice? Budget up to 12K for right truck, and would prefer to get something as new as possible, but if older ones are more reliable, that gets my vote. Thoughts? Thanks in advance
  9. Over here there seems to be lots of the old ceramic insulators from when leccy was ran through the trees, ive unfortunately hit many of them. On a local estate here, a beech had totally encapsulated a wrought iron tree guard, after many chains, its 5ft stump is still on site awaiting the jcb
  10. What sort of price per milled ft3 are we talking these days for elm?
  11. Hi Guys, have limited resources here on the Isle of Man for this tyoe of thing, and being this time of year, contacting Overland of Schliesing themselves is proving tricky. Bought the chipper last year, and the glow plugs have never worked on it. (The Glow plug light has never come on) Wasnt a problem during the warmer weather, but now the chilly weather is here its a right pita to get going. 1. Am I right in thinking that behind the switch panel there should be 2 relays, one 5 pin, and one 4 pin? 2. Does anyone have the specs of these? (It looks as thought the last owner has replaced both with 4 pin relays.) 3. Can anyone tell me what the display is telling me when i put the key in? I understand the hour-o-meter bit, but the rest of what its spouting out is a bit of a mystery and I cant seem to track down a handbook for it. Thanks all, hope you had a merry crimbo and have a great new year Regards Joe @ ABC
  12. J Holtby

    Chain Sharpener?

    anyone tried the portek ultra? we handfile all our chains, but im looking to get a half decent bench mounted grinder, as have saved up a fair few dozen chains now that have some life in them, but have hit nails/rocks etc and will need a good few mm taking off each tooth and no i cant be arsed handfiling them all or pissing about mounting each one on a bar to sharpen etc for the money, the portek ultra seems pretty reasonable and looks solidly built (i.e metal rather then placcy) thanks joe
  13. J Holtby

    Frozen Ropes

    wonder if there is a market for some sort of rope 'antifreeze' surely arborists, fishermen, and anyone working with rope in the cold would be interested?
  14. didnt know these existed, any links? i have a kubota 30hp compact, and have to say that its the handiest thing i own, front loader, back actor, hycrack splitter, can pull a 3t behind it on the road legally, but it dragged a 12t helicopter out of a hanger last year (just!!), just couldnt imagine being without it now seen those crazy corkscrew type stump extractors on youtube, [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuDrge7PHBA]Rotor S Stump cutter & Valtra T191 Tractor (by Rossen) - YouTube[/ame] but cant see a compact having the power or mass?
  15. Hi, heard your the chap to speak to about landforce chippers?

     

    We have one in at the minute and the anvil/blade gap is about 8mm, its just had its bearings done, so guessing they just havent set the gap right after?

     

    Do you have any tips of moving the mainshaft up to spec?

     

    Regards

     

    J Holtby

  16. Mr Chainsawbars, it seems online some say 104 DL and others say 108 DL for .404 36" If I were to order 108s from you, would you throw a few rivets/straps, in so if I need to shorten myself I can? also, is the rollomatic es the only reasonably priced 36" .404 bar available? Regards Joe
  17. Fiddlesticks, of course, the nose sprocket too Cheers, think Ive got it pretty much straight in my head now, will put an order in with you soon Regards Joe
  18. Done a bit more digging, and it seems skip chain is readily available in .404 so... 5) currently running 36" bar, its 3/8" so 114 drive links, if i put a .404 sprock/chain on, how many drive links will i need to order on the chain? Regards Joe
  19. Hi, couple of questions to help my understanding here 1) mr chainsawbars, do you stock any 3/8 semi skip chains? if not, does anyone in the uk? 2) So the advantage of semi/full skip is not really to do with bar length, but with wood diameter being cut (i know this can be one and the same, whichever way people describe it, but in short, its to help the chain run freer in thick wood) 3) If i were to put some semi/full skip chain on my 36/48 bars, would it be an idea to replace the 7t with an 8t (or even 9t?) sprocket to help speed things up? as i guess less torque is required with the fewer cutters in the material? 4) Does anyone on here currently run skip chains and what are their views? Regards Joe
  20. what saw is it? personally id disconnect or remove the oil pump drive
  21. i agree the grease isnt value, and i also find that people have been putting black where clear should go and vica versa for squeezing the last drop of grease out of the tubes, these are really really great Tube Squeezer Easy Toothpaste Dispenser Squeeze | eBay but after reading this thread, ill be drilling/tapping/nippling tomorrow night
  22. ive had one of these for a few months now, in the summer it worked fine, but was over inscotland in dec, and it started stalling intermittently? sometimes ticking over fine, other times cutting out, always restarting with no fuss straight away? i changed it to the winter setting (air temp was just below freezing) but it didnt seem to help? took it to the local dealer last week, and he used it all day, and it didnt cut out once? it was about 4 degrees c here, used it today and it didnt cut out once? im wondering if theyre not too great when its really cold? not overly fussed as fingers crossed rarely work in minus conditions, but will be a bit peeved if it starts stalling all the time.
  23. another arborist near me snaped the handle of the top of his brand new 201 he claimed he did it whilst starting the saw, whilst i dont believe that for a minute, more than likely got it stuck in a falling branch, but looking at the wreckage, the handle isnt exactly what id call robustly attached to the saw ive had my 200 tugged by branches many a time and the handle still remains on the saw, i dont think ill be upgrading

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