difflock

rtfm, or plate, or spec sheet:001_tt2: Plate on door jamb or under bonnet or both. That should be the "gospel" Axle 1 Axle 2 GVM = 2nd largest GTM = largest from recall, sommat like above. anyway the numbers should make sense. Largest number - 2nd largest number = tlr weight

TCD, Live and learn, or experience always costs. I wondered was it the acute angle PTO making the noise, but concluded the coarse chain was a more likely cause. sigh PS How is the BGU driven? I would have presumed chain?, but a better engineered one?

Bump again. I just realized:blushing: this Granberg "flip and Rip" is essentially a bandsaw mill set up............ except using a chainsaw as the cutter instead of the bandsaw. Am I correct in understanding that the potential problems with a narrow blade bandsaw mill are most likely to be due to the "band" wandering due to poor sharpening, incorrect tension, undue forward pressure etc etc. I presume the more rigid chainsaw bar is less susceptible to such deviations, especially if supported at the end of the bar as with the Grandberg. (but optional on the Logosol?) I always like to know the "why" cheers (again) M

I did toy with the idea of buying an Iveco SWB 5.2 tonner equipped with a 5th wheel, i.e set up as an artic tractor unit. They were a UK factory option though not many ever sold. Mostly for big exhibition units large on volume but light. They may also have appealed to the pre 1997 licence holders as the GTW of 8250kg allowed quite some flexibility. I was toying with legally transporting a nominal 3.5 tonne excavator, on the "grandfather" "B" + "E" catogory. Could be a tidy "yoke" but work out quite expensive. 11.4m + allow 6m for Van/pickup = sub 18 m = job done.

Iveco, plated at 5.2 tonne tows 3.5 tonne. For us pre 1997 car licence holders plate at 4.75 tonne if wishing/needing to tow the full 3500kg trailer. Otherwise keep at 5200kg for better van payload. A good truck but some parts are pricier than Merc stuff:confused1: Pulls like a train imho. marcus PS I suspect the C1 + E is more attractive to older men like myself as we already have the 7500kg veh entitlement, we merely need to "top up" the trailer bit to 3500kg/12,000kg GTM. For the post 1997 drivers , yes go straight for the "C", though I suspect one requires to wait a set period (12 months?) before adding the "E".

"bump" Rob, Any furthur developments on this rip and flip mill being sold commercially? Any notion yet of disposing of your first prototype model? An M8 Logosol still beckons otherwise. Or a wee woodmizer. Or sommat. Cheers Marcus

I eventually went for the electro hydraulic Krpan. I would have liked the hydraulic out-feed as well, but could not justify it. I might yet retro-fit the radio remote. I would agree with Stephen that one reasonably gets what one pays for. I did not need Igland quality or finesse. The only comments I would have is (i) the quite acute angle the short PTO shaft runs at, due to the off-set stub on the winch. (ii) The NOISE (& yes, I had to shout) from the chain drive (I concluded) Again Igland, if I recall, has the PTO stub central on the winch with the winch drum above. Cheers marcus

I have been attempting to explain to a few deluded locals that their £50.00/£100.00 "hi security" Abloy padlocks are worthless when the thieves turn up with a couple of cordless angle grinders fitted with "plasma" discs. Especially if fitted to a mild steel padbolt on a rickity shed door.

Despite our -15 frost for that sustained period in 2010, both the Galaxy and old 1490 started, albeit reluctantly. I last bought red diesel several years ago, a bulk tank, just finished it on my last fill (of the tractor). I buy clear wherever at reputable pumps.. Never had problems with waxing or water. So I says most likely water in the lines or filter. i used to habitually check the fuel filter in the BX, a few drops only. Ditto in der Galaxy. Must be better fuel in NI Cheers Marcus

At 53 years of age I am now in a happy content place. Despite working for a small Local Authority , commencing in 1990, I became seriously stressed, purely due to unreasonable work demands. Coming from a small farm background, with a "no work, no eat" ethic drilled in from an early age, and being anti Union minded having grown up through the lunitic Scargill 1970's. MY attendance recored at work was impeccable btw. We had no financial worries. Family life was sound. I decided I could tough it out. But I could not.. I could list all the classic symptoms, unable to sleep at night, lying in a puddle of stinking acrid sweat, brain "buzzing", then after getting up in the morning DESPERATLY needing to crawl back into bed. Constipation, total short trem memory loss or inablity to remember. Loss of libedo:blushing: and irrational irritibility. But never suicidal, that simply was not an option, perhaps because deep down I did not see my problems as being of my own making? I became totally dysfunctional, fnally taking a total of 18 months off on the sick, most of which I spent staring at a blank wall in the kitchen, or individually sorting out buckets of salvaged nails, screws and bolts in the shed=meaninless theraputic activity. Or up the moss alternately cutting bad trees and hugging good trees. Anyway, the key was that it crept up on me. The best anology I came across was the Frog in the pot. It is apparently fact that if one places a Frog in a container of cold water, on a very low heat, the Frog will not realize the temperature is rising until it is too late/ Frog soup time. Most peoples reaction to unacceptable stress is the same. But a very very sound Psychartic nurse turned trainer hit upon the key. Nobody "hasta" do anything, there is always a choice. The alternative may well be unpalatable but there is always an alternative. So go tell the Boss to go **** himself. One will require to find another job But one will feel better. Cheers Marcus

As I understand it the key to mulching is never removing more than 1/3 of the blade length. i.e. 6" grass remove 2", it is surprising how quickly one can return and remove another 1/3. So one can surprisingly quickly reduce the length of the sward by mulching. I have not noticed much/any difference in wet or dry mulching, OK mulching when dry uses less HP but grass mulched when wet rots away faster. And yes there specific situations where boxing off is the only option, like outside a *****Hotel. OR our ***** sports pitchs, where we mostly use a Grillo FD1500:thumbup: Or bytimes a loving cared for almost vintage Ransomes triple cylinder Parkway mower. The sand mattress construction and annual top-dressing with more sand is murder sore on the blades and impeller and other wearing parts.

Sniff! (i)Tomatoes are not fruit:001_tt2: They are also scrumptious fried in Olive oil. (ii) Working in confined spaces could well be hazardous after eating the menu as described above.

Whilst involved in grass cutting for the summer period, I have no experience of the type of mower you are after. Plus NI grass is a kinda special:lol: it stands some cutting when wet which is most weeks. We bought 355 JD diesels with mulching decks, really a glorified domestic machine. Despite the horribly rattly 2 cyl Yanmar engine they are as tough as old boots. Rarely give trouble despite being kept far too long (simply cannot get a direct replacment) The key is our use of mulching decks, JD's are simply superb, though they have a tendency to eat rather expensive deck timing belts. A price worth paying. OK the grass is cut on mostly a weekly basis, but one would swear it was boxed off.

Right on Brother!

Like others I too can get carried away with enthusiam. However I borrowed the brothers 40 year old 08S Stihl and it was big enough. Then since I get nagging sciatica, from time to time, and mostly posture related. I wanted a light saw and one with the best power to weight ratio as well. Hence the 026 choice because the Stihl dealer is much nearer. I would have liked an 034 Woodboss, but they were not available on the UK market at that time. As above I have cut stuff more than twice the length of the bar, OK it took longer , but boy o boy when cutting the wee stuff (and that is mostly) I am very glad of the light nimble saw. Its not the size of ones equipment:blushing:, its what one can do with it:thumbup:

The second pitcure of the face with the raised eyebrows is spot on, I think, but I would be absolutly useless at carving. A commendable effort (why does that sound like a school report?)

I despair of the misuse of statistics, and the absolutly braindead driving behavour of some, drunk OR sober. I in the last 30 years have come across those who regularly drove while well over the limit............without ever having an accident. Incl RUC officers. Because they were sensible and drove slowly and carefully on known roads. There are also those who have horrendous accidents despite not drinking. Phones, children, radio, other distractions. And do it again, and perhaps again. Yet again there are those who get drunk and think they can drive fast. But crash. They are the most dangerous, and stupid. And will pay NO heed to any such adverts I actually like the American approach of demonstrating "competence" by "walking the line" etc, which better takes account of the different levels of absolute mental and physical competence despite any alcohol in their system. btw My tolerance to alcohol is low.

My nephew Philip G is currently working in Regina? for J Deere. He was offered $1000.00 to recruit other young engineers from the UK With another $1000.00 after 6 months if they stayed that long Seemingly desperate for qualified useful types in the remoter? rural areas. Marcus

026 since 1997 A wee re-build 2? year ago due to a failed bearing. Good for another 11 years or so As long as I dinny drive over her wit der ould DB:blushing: I always count to 4 before releasing the clutch. Why? (i) Saw, snugly sheathed on the side o the bonnet, in plain sight. Check! (ii) tool kit/bag across the top of the dash. Check! (iii) Safety helmet, hooked on the RHS door knob> Check! (iv) Fuel can behind the seat Check ! safe to go This routine established after several earlier embarrasing "fou pas" A good job I work alone.

I think that Greys are omnivorous (like humans, pigs and rats) wheras Reds have a quite narrow range of suitable foodstuffs, nuts? (ripe acorns /pine cones etc) primarily, unfortunately the greys are prepared to eat the acorns before they are ripe, tough for the Reds. I suspect that the Reds ability to survive in conifer woodland is due to the different, more random/ extended in time, way pine cones mature and ripen. So in this environment the Reds have a more equal chance. Someone correct me if I am wrong. cheers and bah humbug

Oh but chipboard is absolutly excellent burning, it must be the glue:lol: I do know that H & S are very twitchy about MDF, expecially the dust from processing it.

Erm, seen that one, but perhaps more sensibly am considering purchasing a Fiat crawler, there is now a 80c and a 90C at the same dealership. Which tracks I will probably go and kick in the new year. And call in with Withams, to drool. I still (i think:confused1:) regret not buying a old-stock but unused cabless Fiat 80C from a dealer somewhere in Devon or Cornwall 10 or 12 year ago, I still remember it had 4 double acting hyd services plus link arms and PTO. I did not really need it but??? for £10,000 ish (prob plus vat) Though i think perhaps the tracks were a tad on the narrow side for moss.

erm, cough cough. 2 other reasons (i) Since the greys will be attracted to the feeding stations they are easy/easier to spot, thus triggering a suitable response. (ii)Having encouraged greys to these easily accessible spots they are easier to either shoot or trap, the traps being easier to check. (iii)It also encourages the reds out to be seen and monitered. So a win/win/win PS it seems the reds can better hold their own in conifer woodland, so it may have been reds wot translocated the acorns wot grew into "our" oak trees up the conifer planted moss.

I do not properly understand the "dew point" idea. But the basic idea of insulation is to raise the inner surface temperature so that air borne water vapour will not condense. Any water absorbent material will only work until saturated. Thick old lime walls absorbed from the damp air inside and wicked it to the outside where the moisture was given up/evaporated on a windy drying day. PS I have the same problem under my bare tin roofed sheds, bloody annoying. drip drip drip I wish I had used the fibre cement sheeting instead (but unusual here in NI)

Erm, I baint never ploughed a furrow in my life, nor did I claim too. I will however stand by what I said in respect of altering the wheel width to suit the plough. I suggest RNJ that you visit the BFF site and search for information on correct ploughing techniques and set-up. As others have said the plough should naturally follow the tractor, the lower links providing pure tractive force, the sway chains merely there to prevent sdeways movment when the plough is lifted. There are also those who maintain that the top-link should be in the slotted hole. btw in NI on our generally smaller family owned units, most ploughing is still done with 3 or 4 furrow reversible ploughs, with a wheel still in the furrow. Cheers, Marcus