spudulike
-
Posts
14,797 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
I will second that:thumbup:
-
The first part of the number usually denotes the model number of the saw so I am suspecting that the latter part means "Chain brake guard" - the MS200/020T is 1129 790 910! The times I have seen two part numbers for pretty much the same part, it had a "1" on the end of the part number rather than the predecessors "0" Thats what I reckon but you may get further with one of the guys who have access to the Stihl database:001_rolleyes: If you want a few parts for an 028 then I have a complete saw in bits, it will cost you a bit but it is all there - the big end exploded - got a decent crank for it though!
-
The saw has lean seized and that has dropped your compression making firing impossible. First thing to do is find out why the saw did this and put that right, common reasons are old fuel, straight fuel, air leaks or incorect adjustment of the carb. Once that is done, you will need to clean all the aluminium transfer off the bore to the point you can't feel any roughness and then fit a decent quality piston like Meteor. I would recommend vac/pressure testing the crankcase once reassembled, just to be sure all is well.
-
The 346 would be at home cutting 4" - 10" timber, it will cut larger but that would not be best for the saw. If you are trying to ring up 1.5' + rings, it aint the best tool, if you are doing the lighter stuff, you can't get much better!
-
This is the real quick one and has since had a pop up piston to get the compresion up to over 200psi:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12FcOEkzuvI&feature=plcp]husq 357 part 2 - YouTube[/ame]
-
Thanks, appreciated - sure Steve Bullman (Site owner) will be happy with that:thumbup: Glad it turned out well
-
What sort of diameter wood are you cutting and what is your budget? This will dictate what sort of saw you can get and if new or secondhand. You may find something like the Husky 365 may be a good saw if ringing up and doing a bit of limbing etc It won't cost a fortune either!
-
Another busy weekend..make not to oneself - take some time off:lol: Been struggling with an MS200T smoking, even on Aspen, now sorted after a second strip and rebuild, tightened all the crankcase bolts as a possible fault was chain oil entering the crankcase but a sever vac test after tightening proved the seal ot be perfect. Did a carb mod as the saw had classic signs of accelerator pump issues and it works fine now. Just started an 020T and as suspected, the piston has been seized and has caused typical problems - you can see the work I have done on the cylinder bore to clean that. Other than that, did another MS200 carb accelerator pump fix and tached a 346XP I had ported some time ago - back up to 15,000rpm:thumbup: Also converted a MS260 to Aspen with new carb kit and fuel pipe.
-
The piston front should look like wet light grey smooth aluminium, if it has vertical scores that look a maniac has been at it with a file then it has seized - you can post an image on here or just take a look at the first post on my "whats on your bench" thread!
-
Going back to the original problem, reluctance to rev up, get yourself a can of carb cleaner, take the L screw completely out and blast some down there with one of those plastic tube nozzles and replace the screw all the way in and one turn out. Do the same for the H screw. Check the choke circular valve for correct operation - make sure it is held firmly open with the blower in running positionson the throttle control etc. Pull the exhaust, check the piston is good, make sure the exhaust port isn't full of carbon and closed up, make sure the muffler isn't full of crud or blocked in any way - you can just blow down them for a basic check. If you do this, you should find the problem - worth also making sure tha carb is on tight and you have no air leaks.
-
Very good Andy, I am impressed, you been reading my threads again:thumbup: Yup, it could be either of these and worth checking - I have had backfiring before caused by broken flywheel keys adn the coil gap/setting can cause a very rough and lack of performance running!
-
Yup, you really need to spray the cleaner through the H&L screw holes and look for a good spray through the associated jets in to the throat of the carb - that is what is generally required.
-
You said earlier that the plug was dry and now there is fuel coming out of the decomp valve - I reckon that is pretty much impossible:001_rolleyes: Is the plug dry or wet and is the "pressure release valve" the decomp valve? Sounds like the saw is badly flooded - take the spark plug out, turn the saw off, turn it completely upside down and pull it over fast a few times. With what you have now said, I would pull the muffler off and check the piston through the exhaust port - it is possible the saw has seized and now is lacking the compression to fire the engine!
-
If you do, can you vid it and bung it on youtube, should be a right laugh:lol: Personally I wouldn't bother, best thing to do is strip and clean the carb and then keep the saw in tune and use decent/correct mix oil, that will keep it clean. The exhaust port is the usual place where carbon deposits can really build up, you can if careful, bring the piston up to cover the port and then scrape the carbon off and wash it out with WD40. Other than that, take the cylinder off!
-
Those needle bearings usually push out and a new one can be purchased and pushed in, a decent vice or G clamp makes it easier. Not done a TS350 but have done others.
-
Husqvarna usually manufacture their limited coils in blue and engrave them with the maximum revs on the body. There is no way the coil will be limiting the revs to 8,000, saws usually make peak power at 9,500. What colour is the plug bud?
-
Couple of things to try, the first - Pull off the air filter, remove the four screw cover off the carb (can be done in situe) and see if there is fuel under the diaphragm - use a sharp craft knife to slide it off. You could try lifting the metering arm up around 1/2 mm - you are looking at a slight adjustment here - reassemble and try again. If this doesnt work, remove the carb, take off the single screw carb cover and check the gauze filter is clear of sawdust - it is quite possible it is clogged up! Depending on what sort of tank breather you have, this may possibly be the issue but is less likely - the breather is by the fuel pipe inlet and may need a clean but have seen a few types - some with rubber hoses that won't need cleaning. BTW, Walbro make good carbs so personally wouldn't change it! If this sorts your problem, you may like to read the bottom of my signature:001_huh:
-
Something like that, she keeps hinting - shes just after my dosh:lol:
-
Depends on the amount of damage/wear on it!
-
Looks OK to me Martin - depending on the piston, I would just abrade the bore lightly and let a new piston, if fitted, bed down. those marks don't look bad to me! Is the plug hole thread OK, looks a bit worn?
-
I will be porting a 372 very soon, from what I have seen so far, it looks like there will be a lot that can be done as the piston has full skirts similar to the 346 and 357, both of which port well. Not done a 390XP yet.
-
Been working on an MS200 by the name of Harry, it always worries me when someone else has cleaned some parts and left others dirty:001_rolleyes: I got down to the piston and it looks like a lump of carbon has damaged it - probably still workeable. The main problem is with the colour of the crankcase transfer cutouts, these were brown and not the normal white colour, one of the arrows points toward the crankcase gasket that hasn't been trimmed when the cases have been apart - probably would cause an air leak etc:001_rolleyes: The crank bearings have been replaced and have either been put in the wrong way or just not been pushed fully in to place causing the crank to be tight and overheat in use when the crankshaft has been binding against the bearing. Not good!
-
Sorry, this one is called Ben and now has a new piston, a trick base gasket and runs nicely, just needs taching now!
-
I don't believe there are any differences! Been putting a few new parts on one of the MS200Ts in at the mo, if your fast idle (warm starting position) doesn't work on your MS200T, the arrowed bit of your throttle is probably missing:blushing:
-
Don't know if anyone is interested but my wife is a book keeper and does to books what I do to saws. She already does the books for two local businesses and has twenty years experience in Payroll and around five as a book keeper - also does general invoicing and office work home based If anyone needs a little help with their office work then PM me and will put you in touch. Cheers
