spudulike

I would recommend a tach to get the high speed tuning right, 346XPs rev up to around 14,700rpm in standard trim and tuning by ear isn't that easy on such a high revving saw plus you have the complications of limited coils on later machines. The 372 tops out at 13,500 rpm - both should idle at 2,700 rpm and the chain shouldn't spin! Standard carb settings are 1 turn out on the H&L srews on both! There is another thread on tachs that I was posting on last night!

My favourite is leaving the fuel line off the carb on re-assembly - lucky I don't smoke:lol:

I've ran a 345 for a few years and just refurbed one, I would need a bit more to go on than what you have given me. Find out where it is losing oil and take a photo to get a few suggestions going! You may have just not clamped the oil pump in place properly:confused1:

By tuning the saw, do you mean just setting it up to manufacturers spec? I have just written down how to set a carb up on another thread about a guys 254XP - it may help you as well as the thread you have found of mine:thumbup: Good luck, any questions just ask, Gardenkit, Rich, myself and a few others know what works:thumbup:

Had one in bits to sort it out, the old saws are generally free breathing on the muffler as they came out before the 104db restrictions - would need to pull the cylinder off to see what could be done to get more out of it!

Just call it natural charm and wit:lol:

Nah, it is years of carb cleaner abuse - that and those heady Aspen fumes! I have been contacted by Adam and are arranging a date - hope his misses isn't a jealous lady!

The two timing................... Think the original poster has been scared off.....don't blame him, trouble is he is local:lol:

Classic, gotta love em:lol: Got asked by a Halfords punter how to remove his windscreen wiper...my fame must be spreading! Pulled it off and jumped in the car and drove off at speed before he asked me to fit the new one:lol: Big enough to save £6 but not old enough to fit it:001_rolleyes:

Right - sounds like we are getting closer, set the H screw to slightly under 1 turn - this is where they usually end up and am thinking that the carb may have a little wear making it slightly richer. Set the L screw one turn out, start the saw and adjust the idle speed using the idle screw so the saw doesn't die....if that is possible. Turn the L screw in slowly, the speed of the engine will peak at around half a turn and then start to die, turn it out wards again, past the high revs and around 1/4 turn later, the saw will obtain a slightly uneven beat. leave it here and adjust the idle so the saw has enough speed to keep running but the chain doesn't spin. That is how the carb should be. If the saw still doesn't idle well and stalls than you have other issues with it. On older saws like this, the crankshaft seals on the clutch side have a tendency to perish, rubbers, filters and pipes can become cracked or perished etc The carb may just need a new carb kit but TBH, I rarely find a carb that has failed due to the carb parts perishing! Set the carb as I have explained and see how you get on - if this fails then it may need a bit more of a going over - I usually pressure/vac test everything as it pulls up a lot of faults and is 30 mins well spent IMO!

OK, this could be one of many faults, you need to clarify if the saw will die when revving and not cutting wood, I believe you mean from your post that the saw will die when revving and on cutting. If this is the case, the most likely culprit is fine sawdust in the carb internal gauze filter, it will allow enough fuel to seep through for idle but will starve it of fuel on revving. The thing to do is pull the carb off, remove the cover with the large single screw and look fo the gauze filter - like a tiny cooking sieve and about the diameter of a pencil. Clean the filter out if there is any crud in this area - carb cleaner is great but WD40 will suffice. Other things to look at are fuel filter (not a likely problem), split fuel line (possible), blocked tank breather (try revving the saw with the fuel cap on loose and see if it improves), cracked impulse line ), cracked carb boot manifold. These are the most likely issues but the tank vent and gauze filter are the most likely! A five year old saw should have all its rubber parts in good condition!

Did the OP want his chain sharpened and this isn't an euphemism:blushing: Thanks for the banter.....reeallllyyyy appreciated:001_rolleyes:

Go out in your back garden and shout - I can probably hear you from here:001_rolleyes: Just down the road - I am off to bed but PM me and we can talk:thumbup1: That wasn't an offer by the way - I am happily married:lol:

UK contact details - Tiny-Tach: Contact us ITCO As Bob says, they despatch the goods and then you pay after receiving the goods - bizarre by todays standards but it all works just fine:thumbup:

Glad you are happy with it Bob:thumbup: Should be on commission:001_rolleyes:

I use the Tiny Tach workshop model, it has inductive pick up with no wires and you can change the battery when it runs out, some you can't. They are American but there is a guy who distributes them in the UK! Design Technology, Inc., Home of the Tiny-Tach - More Tachometers They are pretty much the defacto bit of kit to have. Just looked - Tech Tach TT20K

It will need a 20Krpm max and a 0.5sec refresh, the wire wrapped round the plug lead is a bit of a pain but the first one I had was a lead type so is workable.

Makita aquired Sachs Dolmar to break in to the chansaw market - similar saws in the main but not one of the ranges I am that famillier with. If you find it shares parts with the Dolmar 100, I have some spare parts for one of those! Just checked - Dolmar 100 has a 37mm piston!

The fixed saw will be worth around £80 - 100 but the value is perhaps in learning more about the saw and what makes it work!

Old school Stihl saw, small, decent torque, slow revving, reed induction saws. Robust and OK for a bit of firewood logging - value £50 - 120 depending on condition.

Yup, cleaned up really nice, just got an 020T to clean up and get nice, that will make three of these toppers up for grabs:thumbup: Thanks for the day out by the way - interesting:thumbup:

The original gasket on the Jonsered was a 2mm thick plastic looking thing - had to sand it down to half the thickness - strange old thing in this respect! You can either fabricate another gasket or use gasket sealent without a gasket, just depends on what the squish measures and what you are aiming for.

Youneed to avoid sand in your crack, it will chafe a bit:blushing:

I believe if the wood has sails and sailors on it, then it is theft....and they get a bit miffed if you try to cut lumps off it:lol: Haul it away - sure no one will complain, isn't it maratime salvage or something like that:confused1:

Happy New Year to you all, reckon it is going to be a tough one but thats life - been there before. Stay safe in 2013:thumbup: