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spudulike

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Status Updates posted by spudulike

  1. <p>Sorry, I did have an 028 but knocked it out on ebay a couple of years back. Getting pretty scarce now. Good luck Steve</p>

  2.  

    <p>Good luck with it, if you need help then drop me a line.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  3.  

    <p>Possibly a loose circlip or some random bit of metal in the bottom end. Hope you haven't used extra long exhaust bolts or punctured the cases by using the wrong bolts! </p>

    <p>Possibly an expensive mistake Andrew is why I recommend doing what I am good at whilst you do what you are good at! Is the flywheel clouting the coil?</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  4.  

    <p>Yup, that's fine. </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  5.  

    <p>Hi Dave,</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>You can pop it over and I will do a quick assessment on parts and get them on order ASAP. The repair will be within 1/2 day of the parts arriving so the lead time depends on their availability....best I can do!</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  6.  

    <p>Typically two weeks and just remember, if I modify your saw, you will invalidate your warranty if it is within the warranty period!</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  7.  

    <p>Hi Drossi,</p>

    <p>The electronic auto tune is no problem, it actually makes the job easier and works well with the mechanical changes I make.</p>

    <p>Pros - more power, faster pickup, you can use a smaller saw for larger jobs hence less fatigue on your body. Cons - bit more fuel consumption, more noise, you can't hand a ported saw to an employee.</p>

    <p>Costs - I charge circa £150 for porting and includes a clean and service so pretty good value. Aspen isn't an issue - run it from day 1 and it wont need any changes. As far as the big enough difference - I have ported blowers, hedge trimmers and saws, it sort of takes you and changes your perception of wood cutting. It isn't for some but most love the gains and feel of a modified saw.....ask others and take a view!</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  8.  

    <p>Hi Joe,</p>

    <p>Glad the saw I sold you was good, not got anything top handle to sell and TBH, I don't do too much on the saw sales now due to the amount of servicing and tuning I do. Will see if anything comes up and will refer to you if it does.</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  9.  

    <p>Hi Les,</p>

    <p>I gave you a PM last night with my address but PLEASE don't send it in yet as I am really under a tidal wave of saws ATM!</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  10.  

    <p>Sounds like Triggers broom!!!! If you like, send it in and will do my work on the carb and see if it calms it down.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  11.  

    <p>Yes, not a problem, I am busy next week so if you arrange for it to be picked up Monday 29th Feb, I could probably turn it round in a week. have the seals been done?</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  12.  

    <p>Hi Dave,</p>

    <p>Much depends on budget and if you are looking for second user or brand new! The 261 and 362 suffer from weak clutch drum bearings but not sure if this will show up with heavy domestic use!</p>

    <p>The 365 comes in a number of variants but is a solid lump of a saw and will do what you want. If it is the Xtorq, the saw can be easily converted to a 372!</p>

    <p>I started with a 346xp 50cc and is a ripper, very fast, I then got a 357xp and is the same but faster but did modify them extensively!</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>A pro 50cc saw will run a 16" bar with ease, the weight of the saw will also be easier on the back, especially if you will be a weekend warrior!</p>

    <p>The 550xp has a decent turn of speed, nice balance and is light!</p>

    <p>I have little experience of the echo/Dolmar range!</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  13. <p>Good luck with the project, hope it works out!</p>

  14.  

    <p>Oh dear, if life was that simple. A clam engine is a type of engine found on a lot of homeowner saws, On a tyical pro saw, the lower crankcases form the lower part of the engine, are split vertically (the crank sits in the two crankcase halves) and the cylinder bolts down on to the crankcases making them relatively easy to work on.</p>

    <p>On a clam engine, the engine sits in a plastic cradle that holds the metal engine, it splits horizontaly, the lower cylinder forms the top part of the crankcase and the lower crankcase is like a clam shell which clamps the crankshaft between the cylinder bottom and the lower clam.</p>

    <p>This effectively means that the saw needs to be completely stripped down to get the cylinder off, including, carb, flywheel, clutch, oil pump etc etc and on the 029/039, the rear handle, covers and top handle need removing.</p>

     

  15.  

    <p>Yup, sounds about right and if the original part, assuming it is OEM, isn't salvageable then the Hyway kit is probably your best option. The 029/039 are bitches to work on, not just because they are clam engines but the design makes it even more difficult due to things like the bar stud nearest the clutch being screwed in to the lower clam and usually locked solid plus beware the oil pump plastic union in to the plastic engine cradle - easy to damage!</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Good luck with it, the job will be a good learning curve!</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  16.  

    <p>Hi Jim,</p>

    <p>Just follow that thread and do the mods that Brad has done, the mods are typical and Stihl have used them on the later edition of this saw to rectify their earlier saw which was pretty dire.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>I do the mods as listed when I modify MS201s as they give a large percentage of the increases avilable without costing a fortune.</p>

    <p>Good luck</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  17. <p>Ask him to port your saw and then make your mind up! He must be an imposter as there is only one Spud and you know that <img src="<fileStore.core_Emoticons>/emoticons/ohmy.png" alt=":o" srcset="<fileStore.core_Emoticons>/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />)</p>

  18.  

    <p>Hi Daniel, I have done a 560XP before but not the 576XP, the simplest nd cheapest way to get more out of these saws is to open up the muffler which will giv good gains as the modern exhausts are pretty restrictive. </p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>If you want the ports opened up then it gets more expensive, some saws have lots to give, others not so and some of these modern strato engined saws have less to give unless you get really radical with them but would not experiment on others saws.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Other thing to mention is that if the saw is used by others, perhaps employees then think of their H&S in regards to using a modified saw. Most I do are for contractors or operator saw owners.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Have a think about it and PM e if you have further questions.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  19.  

    <p>Hi Matt, main bearings tend to last the life of the saw as does the crank, that being said, these new machines run on a lot less fuel oil mix and there lies the problem. The cost you have been quoted seems about right, I usually charge around £200 labour for bottom end rebuilds so your guy isn't quoting an exorbitant fee. Personally I would only use synthetic oil in these saws and a 40:1 mix - lots may disagree but that is there choice.</p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  20.  

    <p>Hi Tom,</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Have come back to you on your PM!</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  21.  

    <p>Hi Patrick,</p>

    <p>Sounds lovely, look forward to talkig to the couriers agai:-)</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Happy Christmas</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  22.  

    <p>Thanks Andy and Happy Christmas to you, hope 2015 I'd a good year for you.</p>

    <p>Cheers </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  23.  

    <p>Hi Patrick,</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Have replyed to your PM, cost wise - pretty much the same as the others I did for you.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>CHeers</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

  24. <p>Hi Tom, I have done one 338 before, strange tune, it felt like it needed an ignition timing mod bit never did it. There are things I can do, they aren't the easiest saws to work on. You may find a simple muffler mod would be cheapest and easiest mod. My cost will be circa £120 -£150 for a full port, the whole saw needs pulling apart to do this. If you are interested, PM me. Cheers Steve</p>

  25.  

    <p>Hi Joe, </p>

    <p>TBH, on a MS201, you are better off just drilling the exhaust and leaving it there. It costs bugger all and gives instant improvement and any further more expensive work won't give as much for as little.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>The oiler is a relatively easy job - if you can't do it then I can sort it for you or give you advice if you want a go!</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Cheers</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Steve</p>

     

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