C.J

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/H2H_PHOTOS/MS%20250/390%20MM/001.jpg

This is a 290 so very likely the same.

Two questions.

 

Would the fact I'm using half to two thirds throttle effect this oiling malarkey ? As I'm running the saw in as per the manual.

 

How the hell is oil getting on the exhaust and running down the outer side of the clutch cover?

 

I'm beginning to think the bar is the culprit...?

 

Also, I read on some US sites that the MS390 was prone to this problem. Several owners reported being told they'd broken off an 'oil plug' and had fixed it by inserting a machine screw with sealant tape into 'a hole between the exhaust and bar' which I'm unable to locate.

I was thinking this.Don't know about the 391,but on the 017/170 there is a coloured plastic plug in the end of the tube , that the oil pump is fitted.I can't find a picture ,but its a little orange piece of plastic on the chain side of the exhaust , and is visable on a clean saw without taking apart.

I have no problem with the dolly or using 1/4" pitch chain but I'm not sure about using a carving bar with no nose sprocket and a slack chain.

Last winter I was using a MS170 with 3/8 x 1.1mm chain ( the same combination I have on my Kombi pruner ) and excellent for not grabbing.

The 1/4 x 1.1mm chain should be even better and fully understand why people are recommending the MS150 or cordless saws.

No brainer . Got to be the new one .

Coz a decent bar and chain must be 100 notes

Can someone advise please? We have a line of laurel that was originally planted as a hedge, way back. Problem is - it was never trimmed so now we have a line of laurel trees with trunks about 4 - 5 inches thickg that row to about 6 - 8 feet before branching out. I would like to try make a hedge out of them so plan to cut them all to about 6 feet high hoping that they will start sprouting branches lower down. Would they actually survive such a radical cutback? If so, what is the best time to do this? Would it be OK to do it now?

If there are no branches below 6 foot,I recommend you coppice next March /April and start again.It should grow 3-4 foot in the first year.

That's very good for a little 3 cylinder tractor - should be very economical.

I have used my 1979 Ford 6600(which is supposed to produce 35 L/min)and would need to be at 16-1800 rpm to get an acceptable ram speed.

More often I use it on my JD6400 at about 1200 rpm which is supposed to be 80 l/min.

Heating oil is half the price it was during the winter 2012/13.

Are your logs half the price ? No , they're not , because the price of cord is still high.

What you need is some snow and ice to shift your logs.

That was for 4000 Litres in South Wales on Wednesday.

Fuel is at a 6 year low and still dropping.

40.29 p/Litre is the best I've seen.

Did you buy that machine Beau?

I collected a new self propelled machine from C.R.Willcocks today:001_smile:

We got plenty here Jon.

 

You hit the nail on the head earlier, you wouldn't keep selling logs if you were paying more to buy them in and process them than you could make selling them.

 

Perhaps we just have too much milk?

Only 86% self sufficient according to BBC breakfast yesterday.

The problem is the exchange rate.The super markets say they can import it cheaper so understandably they want to pay less for U.K milk.

Countries like France look after their farmers with higher subsidies,so the French farmers can afford to sell their milk cheaper.

During Labour's reign subsidies were taken away from working farmers and given to land owners - not good if you are a tenant farmer.Also 20-25 % of subsidies now go to environmental schemes and the quangos that run them.

One on the fork and one on the rake.

Any agricultural dealer Use them on tractor trailers too

The ring hitch on a over-run coupling is usually 40mm,whereas an agricultural pick up hitch ring is 50mm.

The "grandfather rights" , sprayer training exemption , expires on 26 November 2015.

If its not been greased for some time , you may find the pin has worn badly ,creating a groove ,which the ram has sunk into ,preventing you from extracting the pin.

I know you have written that the ram is slack, but it may not come out unless the ram is contracted enough to pull it out of the groove so you can remove the pin.

Does that make sense ?

Full skip Oregon is 73JGX082C the 82 being 82drivers so 24" . I assume the number would be the same other than 28..30...32...etc for the drive count .

A Husky 24" is 84 drive links.

Rob D already stocks 75JGX for Stihl saws,Hopefully He will soon have some 73JGX for 3/8 Huskies.

A 20" (72 DL) husky bar is only 18" usable length , with dogs on.

I often use a 24" with full skip on my 365 Special.

Looks like someone has modified the loader to take a chillton quick hitch.Make sure you have plenty of movement to crowd and tip a bucket.

Try parking looking up a steep hill, and raise and lower the trailer a few times.Hopefully the ram port will be at the highest point and the air will be expelled.

Per quarter

You can fell 5m3 on per quarter . So 5cube on the 31st and another 5 on the 1st if you want . There is a restriction on how much you can sell per month but I have forgotten that bit !

You can only sell 2 c.m

Something like this ?

I appreciate the bottle is smaller , at the top , to improve accuracy but a small error in your petrol volume will result in a big error in the oil you add.

Lets say you add 1% too much petrol,and then top up to the 50:1 mark.

You will have 1010 ml of petrol and 10 ml of oil giving a ratio of 101:1:thumbdown:

621 with fuel in the crakcase rather than having a seperate fuel tank suffers terible with todays fuel, it will actually boil in the tank after a short period, as much as it pains me to say this try Aspen, bugger that really hurt.

That explains it .My uncles old Jonsered used to pressurise the fuel tank and I never understood how it could happen

Many thanks for all the helpful replies, what a great Forum this is!

 

There is certainly some scoring of the bore and piston but it does not look too bad. The seal between the crankcase and the plastic base looked decidedly rough with evidence of oil tracking across so perhaps this was the reason for the seize. I did notice on the day before the seize that the saw was hunting on full revs, perhaps an indication of an air leak and weak mixture.

 

What is the best sealant to use between crankcase and plastic base, is ordinary silicon sealant adequate or does it need something special?

 

Thanks again.

The piston ring may be pinched or stuck and not sealing properly.

Any chance you'll be getting any 3/8 .58 skip tooth at any time rob?

73JGX please.

Stihl PS - picco super.3/8 lo pro full chisel