Danny Boy

A cubic metre of loose logs is a lot less than you might imagine, this bucket is 1.3 cubic M.
We call two bucket full (2.6 cube) a load.
 

 

 

It's a MK4 Hilux I have btw

Do you have it uprated?
 
My MK6 has a 900kg payload and I am probably very close to that with 2 cube of wet logs and 3 would way over

Sure its loose volume as read it somewhere in the blurb.
 
If it was stacked it would make deliveries impossible in many trucks and tippers as they would be over legal payloads. I am right near the limit with 2 wet loose cube on our single cab Hilux

Well that was a long & interesting read read start to finish!

I dabbled with selling firewood 10+ years ago but found I was competing with so many numpties with so many interpretations of a load that I stopped.
Just process enough for myself now.

Toying with the idea of selling some of the ARB waste again & using IBC's.

I'm up in Scotland so we don't have Woodsure regs here but I was also wondering if the 2m³ is loose or stacked?

Interesting setup. Not quite sure what to make if it.

Portable Universal Track Chainsaw Mill Coin Lumber Planking Boards Milling,

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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One man operation no need for heavy plant. Perfect for planking and coins. Logs can also be secured vertically, allowing them to be sawn into coins. CHAINSAW NOT SUPPLIED. The Universal Woodworking Station can also be used as a sawhorse.

Your primary source if heat is the wood burner. I wouldn't worry about what you're losing from a few foot of flue.
Any flue going thru ceilings or roofs etc has do be twin walled & I'm not sure if strictly speaking you can get away with having the length between the top of the stove & the approach to the ceiling as single flue.

Either way having a twin walled flue all the way up improves the draw so I'd say everything seems ok.

This is what i was going to suggest. Easy to make and easy to fabricate some channel and wheels into the rollers.
You canals the doors louvre style by just making frames and got the cladding use feather edge with a piece of half inch timber screwed on top of the fixing points before fitting next board.
If you have roller doors you can not have doors for all of them but could choose which ones to put doors over by sliding them along the bays.

Sliding doors! That's the great thing about forums. There's always an obvious simpler easier solution just round the corner [emoji1]

Personally RT, I'd go for wind over sun if I had to choose. In an ideal world both would be great.

Its probably most important to keep rain off to avoid mold.

[emoji1]

What is the benefit to using a battery saw ? Surely if you need to use it that much or continuously petrol is the way to go 

You're right, huge doors like that would be a bit trickier especially with windy days.

On that case if you're quite happy that the weather conditions you mentioned are pretty stable for you then have the entire walled section at the back where the logs are kept (facing the wind) louvered & just leave the front open. [emoji1]

Here's photos of my customers woods store. Gives a better idea.

I think having pairs of doors to each bay is a very versatile option as Mrblue says.
As off-putting as a bit more complication sounds don't let it put you off what's gonna work best for you.
When I mentioned louvered sides I meant as walls but no reason they can't be used as doors.
The extra timber will make them heavier though so might be best to get softwood slats or ranch boards or feather edge boards from a timber supplier.
You could use something similar to the Outer String on a staircase to fix the louvres onto.

Another option is to have horizontal louvres. The easiest way to describe it is like old slatted cupboard doors but on a bigger scale. Using 4"-6" wide boards with a gap anything from 2"-4". You'll get 100% side coverage, the wind can go right thru & most of the driving rain should hit the diagonal slats & run down.

One of my customers gave me the idea & said he saw it in Switzerland.

You could easily go for a 3:1 or 4:1 Gap:Board ratio.

Only disadvantage is you use more timber & a bit fiddlier to do but that's nothing major.

Although you might want to watch how much wind you let in. Don't want the whole barn taking off!

Obviously you'd have the door upside down to what's in the photo.

Agreed, I wouldn't bother drilling twice.
I find the size of hole you end up with is roughly an inch bigger in diameter than the bit you use cause of all the soil & stones rattling around.
I use a 7” (8" hole) auger for 4" posts & a 5" (6" hole) auger for 3" posts.

That was a good read! You still running the kiln Big J?

I bought a one man petrol auger years ago & it's great. A 2nd hand Mitsubishi one for £100.
When they work, they work great but they do get stopped by roots & bigger stones & then you just remove whatever obstacle by hand or pinch bar & carry on.
Also agree on getting your timber from a timber & dedicated fencing supplier (I'm lucky enough to have 2 within a few minutes of me). The builders merchants seem more expensive.

Not exactly experience, but I tried to do a masters on it, long story.
But to get decent yields it needs good soil, dry land for harvesting and a hot summer. The big advantage is that it can be harvested at 25% moisture content in March / April before the new shoots appear. Big disadvantage of it was that some bright spark discovered that it was high in HCl so not good for boilers. It cost a lot for the rhizomes to get it established. There was perhaps 2000 acres of it planted in Ireland in the noughties, but it is all gone around here now as there basically was no market for it, there might be a bit left in Wicklow / Wexford where it is used as animal bedding instead of straw. I think Drax(?) power station was doing it in UK, maybe 15 years ago.
 

Drax ends miscanthus contracts and reviews straw supply - Farmers Weekly

WWW.FWI.CO.UK

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The UK’s largest power station is to stop buying miscanthus from UK growers from next year. The company is also...  

Anyone on here have any experience of using Miscanthus as a Coppice?

On 21/01/2021 at 13:46, Mrblue5000 said:

Wall to wall Sitka spruce, leave it for 30 years, don't thin it, clearfell at year 30, rinse and repeat. This will piss off any neighbours, they'll probably leave, buy them out, plant more Sitka. Pretty soon you'll have 1000 acres of Sitka. If it works for state owned forestry surely it will work for you too. 

That's a bit too hands off for me I think. Although I might do that with a section.

Hypothetical plan so far:

Improve drainage.

Use 50-75% of the area for a Willow or similar coppice.

Use 10-20% of the area for a Xmas Tree nursery.

Possibly channel all drainage into a central pond.

Have a couple of Polytunnels for fruit & veg & 'erbs.

An are for Blueberries.

Use the firmest part of the land for a little Orchard.

Randomly plant an eclectic mix of around 50 trees throughout & leave them to grow.

Get Geese in.

Get Ducks in.

Get a static caravan.

Keep em coming!

Starting to sound fun now 😄

If I was being cynical I would say register the land as a croft, put a couple sheep in there, get a grant to build a huge shed/fences/roads, get planning permission for a croft house (as you need to tend the sheep) then in 10yrs time decroft/sell the house and get permission to build a croft house (as you need to tend the sheep) etc etc 

I think 4.8m is the actual height of an artic.

I've got to get a telehandler too now & 7m is ideal I'd say [emoji106]

Damn expensive machines to buy 2nd hand in the current climate....

Every few years to have a longlasting effect; soil rapidly reverts to type.
 
Forget it; work with what you have.

If you have acidic soil, grow blueberries. Stick some woofers in a caravan during harvest season and leave them to it.