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Danny Boy

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Everything posted by Danny Boy

  1. Danny Boy

    Flemington Farm

  2. Interesting setup. Not quite sure what to make if it. Portable Universal Track Chainsaw Mill Coin Lumber Planking Boards Milling, WWW.EBAY.CO.UK One man operation no need for heavy plant. Perfect for planking and coins. Logs can also be secured vertically, allowing them to be sawn into coins. CHAINSAW NOT SUPPLIED. The Universal Woodworking Station can also be used as a sawhorse.
  3. Your primary source if heat is the wood burner. I wouldn't worry about what you're losing from a few foot of flue. Any flue going thru ceilings or roofs etc has do be twin walled & I'm not sure if strictly speaking you can get away with having the length between the top of the stove & the approach to the ceiling as single flue. Either way having a twin walled flue all the way up improves the draw so I'd say everything seems ok.
  4. Good idea. The one thing I'd say for any sliding doors outside would be either suspend them with the roller on top or have a raised channel with grooved wheels on the bottom. Just incase the channels fill with debris or water & freeze in the winter. Had to look into all this recently when thinking about a sliding gate at home.
  5. Sliding doors! That's the great thing about forums. There's always an obvious simpler easier solution just round the corner [emoji1] Personally RT, I'd go for wind over sun if I had to choose. In an ideal world both would be great. Its probably most important to keep rain off to avoid mold.
  6. Maybe keeping noise levels down too? Not sure how much attention you'd want to attract living out on your own.
  7. You're right, huge doors like that would be a bit trickier especially with windy days. On that case if you're quite happy that the weather conditions you mentioned are pretty stable for you then have the entire walled section at the back where the logs are kept (facing the wind) louvered & just leave the front open. [emoji1]
  8. Here's photos of my customers woods store. Gives a better idea.
  9. I think having pairs of doors to each bay is a very versatile option as Mrblue says. As off-putting as a bit more complication sounds don't let it put you off what's gonna work best for you. When I mentioned louvered sides I meant as walls but no reason they can't be used as doors. The extra timber will make them heavier though so might be best to get softwood slats or ranch boards or feather edge boards from a timber supplier. You could use something similar to the Outer String on a staircase to fix the louvres onto.
  10. Another option is to have horizontal louvres. The easiest way to describe it is like old slatted cupboard doors but on a bigger scale. Using 4"-6" wide boards with a gap anything from 2"-4". You'll get 100% side coverage, the wind can go right thru & most of the driving rain should hit the diagonal slats & run down. One of my customers gave me the idea & said he saw it in Switzerland. You could easily go for a 3:1 or 4:1 Gap:Board ratio. Only disadvantage is you use more timber & a bit fiddlier to do but that's nothing major. Although you might want to watch how much wind you let in. Don't want the whole barn taking off! Obviously you'd have the door upside down to what's in the photo.
  11. Danny Boy

    Fencing cost

    Agreed, I wouldn't bother drilling twice. I find the size of hole you end up with is roughly an inch bigger in diameter than the bit you use cause of all the soil & stones rattling around. I use a 7” (8" hole) auger for 4" posts & a 5" (6" hole) auger for 3" posts.
  12. Danny Boy

    Fencing cost

    I bought a one man petrol auger years ago & it's great. A 2nd hand Mitsubishi one for £100. When they work, they work great but they do get stopped by roots & bigger stones & then you just remove whatever obstacle by hand or pinch bar & carry on. Also agree on getting your timber from a timber & dedicated fencing supplier (I'm lucky enough to have 2 within a few minutes of me). The builders merchants seem more expensive.
  13. Well the soil is far from good & dry so perhaps that rules that out.... Am I right in thinking after 20 years or so of coppacing willow or anything for that matter, the ground is gonna be a bit of a state full of stumps & not really available to do much unless it's cleared 1st?
  14. Anyone on here have any experience of using Miscanthus as a Coppice?
  15. That's a bit too hands off for me I think. Although I might do that with a section. Hypothetical plan so far: Improve drainage. Use 50-75% of the area for a Willow or similar coppice. Use 10-20% of the area for a Xmas Tree nursery. Possibly channel all drainage into a central pond. Have a couple of Polytunnels for fruit & veg & 'erbs. An are for Blueberries. Use the firmest part of the land for a little Orchard. Randomly plant an eclectic mix of around 50 trees throughout & leave them to grow. Get Geese in. Get Ducks in. Get a static caravan. Keep em coming! Starting to sound fun now 😄
  16. I think 4.8m is the actual height of an artic. I've got to get a telehandler too now & 7m is ideal I'd say [emoji106] Damn expensive machines to buy 2nd hand in the current climate....
  17. That would be the ideal, not to have to fight the land. I'm thinking between improving the drainage & planting Willow or Poplar etc to help soak up more water it should help improve the ground over time to open up my options. On a difft note has anyone got any contact details for anyone in the Woodland Trust? Apparently their systems have been down since the start of Dec & still aren't up & running which seems a bit bizarre.
  18. That's a good shout. How do they take to boggy soil?
  19. I think all of the ideas above have crossed my mind plus bbq'd goat! [emoji1] Yes, the land is flat & drainage does need to be sorted. Won't know how much of a difference that'll make to what can & can't be planted there. I'd want to have a combination of options on there. A small portion of the area has decent solid ground which could lend itself to an orchard or have a Polytunnel. Given most of the area is covered in rushes, any ideas what will coexist well with them? The soil would be a little on the acidic side. Could put some lime down to raise the pH but I'd like to explore ways to work with the land 1st before doctoring it to suit if that makes sense.
  20. Yes, ultimately it is a money maker. Long term view is to have something established commercially to eventually lead to planning permission
  21. Hi all, Have seen some land I'm thinking of getting up here in sunny Scotland. Around 10 acres of flat land. Currently pretty boggy with Rushes covering a good 3/4 of it. The big question is what to do with the land? My initial thought was a woodland but not sure what the soil is like yet (apart from wet) Other thoughts were Xmas trees, willow etc for coppicing, anything considered. What thought spring to folks minds? Cheers in advance [emoji106]
  22. I remember seeing something online around 12 years ago where the University of Bristol had worked out 4" is around the optimum diameter for a log. I don't remember what the rest of the parameters were though. Slow burn, fast burn... I tend to like a slightly smaller log. Maybe around 3" diameter. I often split existing logs again to build the fire up again if it's a bit slow or just chuck a bit of kindling in.

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