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13 hours ago, Bob_z_l said:

Portwest A185 Thermal Latex Yellow and Blue Gloves

WWW.WORKGLOVES.CO.UK

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The thermal lined Portwest A185 Thermal Latex Yellow and Blue Gloves provide warmth and protection in cold condtions, making them ideal for a range of applications. Robust and...

 

Ejendals Tegera 295 Thermal Waterproof Work Gloves

WWW.WORKGLOVES.CO.UK

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Keep your hands warm and dry with the Ejendals Tegera 295 Thermal Waterproof Work Gloves, available for Â12.46 per pair. Hardwearing and durable, the gloves are ideal for outdoor...

I use these. 

The Ejendals come up a bit small on the sizing but have lasted well.

The portwest  are "disposable" as eventually the latex wears away and they definitely aren't waterproof. Saying that in the cold weather they do resist water for a long time. I would recommend based on the damage to my hand limits circulation and with them my hands feel warm straight away and for longer. 

 

Hi Bob,Thanks for the info, so have you any preference out of the two types you use.

As above ,can you suggest a make you use and have stood the test of time,many thanks.  

I ask the above, as the logs I have supplied to my regular customers have been the driest I have supplied ,due to the hot dry temps during the log seasoning period of 2022.  

Any update on prices for Ash or other  hardwoods  at roadside per tonne, would be much appreciated, thankyou. 

Since I have been using a "Sugihara  Pro Solid Bar" and  Oregon 73DPX chain  I haven't  had the problem ,as per the thread title.   

The  pin  on the fixed end  of the spitting ram on my Japa 2100 processor sheared off today.  Just wondering if by any chance any one else has had the problem happen on their own  Japa 2100 machine. I am wanting to know if the pin that holds the ram fixed end in place is just slid into  the bracket ,welded on to the machine, or is it welded in to the bracket,or  rusted solid in to the bracket.  I very much doubt I will get any replies, but thanks for any info  if you do reply.     

Out of interest I weighed my empty pickup,on a local  farm weighbridge ,  and again when loaded with 9" seasoned logs (approx 20% moisture). The load of logs weighed 500kgs, what I am  trying to work out is how much that same pickup load  of logs would have weighed if I had loaded it up with freshly cut Ash ,as bought in.

I am only after an approximate figure  so no need for anyone to get too technical or make a meal of it !!!!!!!!

.   

As above , hire of processor ,local estate come and collect with their tractor and a member of their staff operate  it .     

Many thanks for all of you for taking the time to reply to my topic ,which was in all honesty a bit basic to say the least🙄    

I know the above is impossible to give an answer to as so many things to influence how  much moisture a 4" x4"x 36"  approx size    wood billet will loose in such short time. The  shed is a fully enclosed shed approx 60 x 40 ,  humidity   this time of year hovers around 90 / 95 %(hygrometer in shed), so I guess wood ain't  going to dry very much at all. 🙄🙄

As above .

I use  Solidur  leather fencing gloves which I like as not too expensive compared with some  and wear reasonably well ,but just wondering what gloves others wear.    

Many  thanks for all your replies,as been so busy I have managing with my Stihl MS362. 

I have been told that the piston on my 550 xp is scored and so the compression is down,and probably the reason it wont start.

Do I spend money on it or put the money towards a new 550 ????

22 hours ago, Steve Bullman said:

I shot this video a few years ago on a stihl visit. Should answer your questions hopefully.

 

This is carried out by stihls own tech guy, not just someone trying to clock up channel views 

 

 

Hi Steve ,thanks for posting .

I have tired the reset as mentioned in your video but engine  still defaults back to not starting  when hot, unless I squeeze throttle to full open as I pull start cord while my foot is securing chainsaw to the ground, Dangerous !!!!!!!!

I now see after Googling the problem , that the solenoids on the M tronic are prone to giving trouble. I am therefore going to order another solenoid /tank fuel filter (part no: 1140-007-1802) . Please can someone tell me of a good video that  shows one how to remove the carb from an MS362C saw , replace the solenoid,and then replace the carb.    

I am desperate to try and do a reset of the M tronic on my old Stihl  MS 362 C saw, as after it has been ticking over for a while  when warm and it stops, the only way I can start it is to   " put my foot in the  handle  grip to secure it to the ground, grasp the throttle  to full throttle, and then pull the pull start with my other hand, it then usually starts ",but a dangerous situation as it roars straight to full revs, bl..dy  DANGEROUS!!!   On "GOOGLE" there are so many Videos  that SUPPOSEDLY show how  carry out a reset  I am completely confused as to what is the correct way to do a reset. So I am in desperate need of help !!!!!!!!!!!!  

As above , I ask as  my old Husqvarna550 xp mk1, has got to the stage I dont want to spend any more money on its recurring starting  problems etc .

Moving on I am horrified at the cost of a new 550 XP Mk11/ Stihl MS261, and as I am no longer doing forestry work  I would appreciate your suggestions as to which chainsaw I should buy,which may be in the non -professional category, to replace my old 550 Mk1,which in all honesty has been a really user friendly chainsaw to use. 

(When I say cutting up firewood,I mean cutting  bendy lengths of cordwood in to manageable lengths to go through my old Japa 2100 processor)

thanks for all your replies .

I have sent the chain back to Chainsawbars and they are going to fit 2 extra links , as  said trial and error!! 

I have just purchased a Sugihara bar to fit on my old Japa2100 processor.  The 15" Oregon bar that is on the processor now, uses  a .325 chain and 64 links . The new 15" Sugihara Solid  Bar uses a 3/8 pitch chain and the one that came with the bar is 56 links.  Unfortunately the chain is too short to allow me to get the bar on to the saw drive sprocket which is now a 3/8 drive sprocket. I am trying to find out how many extra drive links I will need to allow the Sugiharara bar and chain to fit on my chainsaw Suggestions on how I can work that out will be much appreciated.     

I have noticed that their is a crack in the oil tank on my Stihl 362C chainsaw,which is allowing oil to leak out the tank. Have any of you successfully used one of the so say "liquid metal" type glues , to repair a crack in a chainsaw chain  oil oil tank , if so please can you tell me the name of the product you used,thankyou.

I see "Always Greener Ltd "  (Sugihara Distributors Uk) own Chainsawbars Uk . 

6 hours ago, Stere said:

GB .325″ .058″ ProTop 15"

??????????

6 hours ago, Ferguson system said:

 

If the bar is for a firewood processor, then I would suggest that you get a bar with 1.5mm groove instead of 1.3mm. 1.5mm has more room for oil and will increase the lifetime of the bar. Better lubrication for the sprocket and more oil to cool the bar. One other thing is that you should look for a bar that is solid and not laminated. A laminated bar is ok for a chainsaw, but I strongly recommend that you get one that is solid for your firewood processor.
 

The bar and chain combo that you're after is pretty common, most dealers and suppliers should be able to help you. You listed a Oregon bar that has the small Husqvarna mount, but it doesn't have to be Oregon as long as you get the same bar mount and chain pitch.

Thanks for your reply . 

Are 15" solid bars available with a 1.5 groove  (64 links)  that with a Husqvarna bar type fitting?      

8 hours ago, john87 said:

What type of chain and bar??

 

BAR:- Orgeon Advance Cut HD   (150MPBK095)

CHAIN:-  Oregon 95txl    ( 15"/.325/1.3/64 links)

I am hoping the bar above will be made of slighter harder steel, as used on a firewood processor. Despite running chain slightly loose bars still seem to burr over quicker nowadays. I do also wonder if chain saw chain oils vary in their  "stickiness",theit by not lubing the chain as much as they should do.

I have recently asked several on line bar and chain suppliers if they had a certain type of  bar and chain in stock. None of them had what I needed which is fair enough  BUT NOT ONE ASKED ,would you like us to see if it is available and if so order it for you at extra cost. SO IN MY OPINION NONE OF THOSE  BUSINESSES WERE PROVIDING A SERVICE, "but  a   sorry chum we aint got it policy ", what an attitude to encourage new business ,I DONT THINK.  .

In the end I did say to an Oregon dealer ,"can you order it in for me PLEASE  because I have spoken to Oregon Uk and they have 4 of what I require  in stock", yes the dealer said we can do that but their will be an extra charge,"thats ok I said because I need it urgently."   BUT WHY DOES ONE HAVE ASK IF THEY CAN  ORDER IT SPECIALLY"  they  the dealer should be the ones trying to provide a service to the customer,I rest my case.

I ask the above as many of you cut large tonnages of  logs in a year and so I thought , over the years you may have found that a certain type/make of bar and chain holds its sharpness a bit longer  before resharpening, especially when cutting well seasoned  wood.Thankyou for any input.