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Climbergiorgio

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Posts posted by Climbergiorgio

  1. On 06/03/2019 at 22:45, Erik said:

    It’s just one of those little tricks I was fortunate enough to pick up along the way. Just kind of took it for granted that most folks knew about it.  Glad I could spread a little teeter totter love!  

    Hi Erik, do you have any pic or video of your jobs (youtube, pic...)? 

    Do you also have any video of your technique? 

    Is the one where you put the sawdust on the centre of the piece you're cutting with the chainsaw? 

    I'm asking 'cause I didn't understand very well from what you wrote about your technque.

    Thanks!

    • Like 1
  2. On 21/02/2019 at 19:52, Rich Rule said:

    No because the pulley is almost friction free, meaning all the point of friction is in the Bollard, Hobbs, Portowrap etc.

     

    Rings create a bit of friction.  Multiple rings more friction and this dissipating heat elsewhere other than the bollard.

    Pay attention to the kind of friction created on the rings. If the angle of the ring is too small, it's not good for your rope. Also pay attention to the heat created on the rings, it's always more than the one created on a bollard

  3. On 07/11/2009 at 17:35, mdvaden said:

    That tree looks more like a 90' to 100' height more so than 150' after pausing earlier in the video, and later at 1:04.

     

    The house in the video is closer to the camera than the tree, this distorts the image, and that house is a old villa with very high ceilings. Here the link where I post some pics so you can see them: 

     

    • Like 2
  4. On 20/02/2019 at 15:54, Erik said:

    Yep.  120-125 ft at the most, and certainly not 150 ft. Very nice work nonetheless!

     

     

    Those very short pieces he was cutting would have been the perfect time to use the old teeter totter with wedges technique, me thinks.  

    It's cool that you know the exact high of the tree even if none of you were there... I've already said that using a wide angle camera, it modify the real size. 

    It was not possible to use wedges and let the pieces go with no control, 'cause the tree was on a slope, there was the risk to make them rolling to the street.

     

    • Like 6
  5. On 13/02/2019 at 20:51, Ragdoll said:

    What do you mean by this? Cheers.

    In the drawing you can see what I mean. In this way I have
      about twice workload, with the same rope. If I'm using 2 Fiori's rings (A) and I have a load of 4 kN, on the rope 1, I keep 0.65 kN to control the load's descent. These rings heat up less, and to have a large radius allows you to use all the workload of the rope.

    FIGURA 4.jpeg

  6. @Mark BolamI found the video! 

    You asked me: "You could add comments about how you would do the job now that more advanced techniques are available (I can’t think of many though!), and you’re a bit older, wiser and possibly heavier, like the rest of us!"

     

    That's my answer: I think that the only think I'd change is that before to make the big "plates", I'd make some pieces using the double whip technique with big rings... in this way I'd decrease load on the friction and I'd have less load on the rigging rope, and the job would be faster ('cause I'd have bigger pieces)

    • Thanks 1
  7. 1 hour ago, Mark Bolam said:

    Doesn’t stop it being a great vid amico!

    You could add comments about how you would do the job now that more advanced techniques are available (I can’t think of many though!), and you’re a bit older, wiser and possibly heavier, like the rest of us!

    @Steve Bullmanis nearly 140kg now, I believe.

    Ahahah I think @Steve Bullman is 140kg with Simona in his arms ? 

    Yes I could say what I'd change... I should find the video, I didn't post it, I'll try to look for it. Thanks 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  8. 55 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:

    Bellissimo!

    I remember the vid of the big redwood - there are a couple of shots of it in there.

    One of my favourite tree vids ever.

    You should put it up again!

    There were some very interesting looking techniques in that short vid.

    Hope you’re well, looked like you were having fun!

    Thanks, you're very kind, but the video of the sequoia is quite old 

    • Like 1
  9. 11 ore fa, Steve Bullman ha scritto:

    I was in Italy a few weeks back and saw field after field of Poplars at various stages of growth beside the main road.  There were literally hectares of them.  Really would have liked to know what they were all being grown for.

    I've always been seeing poplar plantations, chosen for its fast growing...depending on the type of tree, you can have different things: with biggest than 22 cm diameter they can have wood layer, smaller than 22 cm they send it to sawmill, smaller than 10 cm it's used for biomass (energy)

  10. Nice video and nice job... may I give you a suggestion? it's better not to use blockers (while you're cutting) on your main rope. If anything happens, you should be able to come back quickly. A more opened notch would help you not to come back with the chainsaw once again. I don't want to seem rude, just a little tip ;)

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  11. I've invited Giorgio to comment, hopefully he can shed some light

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

     

    Hi Steve, unfortunately I cannot help you, I just can say my thought: the person who made that job, took a big responsibility too... thanks for asking to me :thumbup1:

  12. :thumbup:

    Hi Giorgio, thanks for sharing this, we have had a play with this set up as I really like the idea of knot blocking with a cambium saver as it makes retrieval easier.

     

    The plastic clip, really helps to stop the slack getting into the system as I have found on some climbs without it!

  13. hook of the tubes, of the underwater cylinders

    IMAG1860.jpg.e5ad534bb4f6190fd10e9abefc7bda3d.jpg

     

     

    After having met up with some of you on the weekend for another play about with SRT with hopefully a positive step towards making SRT an industry standard one thing that struck me whilst looking at all the different configuration is the lack of what for me is a simple and elegant top tie soloution.

     

    I use the pinto and carabiner to me it is secure with very few drawbacks other than retrieval if you have to pull through/over branches. The negatives being we are configuring a piece of hardware in a way it is not designed to be used, if you capture the working leg in the carabiner also you are backing up the pinto only a carabiner is not ideal in a choked configuration.

     

    I also like knot blocking using a cambium saver, with this you are using a product designed as a top anchor with rings albeit not in a configuration it was intended, the advantages are it retrieves more easily over a choked pinto. It's negatives are, it's not midline attachable (unless you bodge something together like I have) and if you are moving back to your tie in point the weight of the rope can cause large amounts of slack in your system- there are soloution a to this like using a quick release clamp to stop the line falling through but it is not particularly robust in my opinion although I would happily use it.

     

    The best soloution I saw was using some kind of Mallion or shackle as a top tie, only there is nothing particularly ideal at present that I have seen.

     

    Any thoughts on a good simple robust retrievable top tie?

  14. Thanks for sharing Giorgio, looked a great event. I'll look forward to it this year! Do you have dates yet?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

     

    Thank you Steve, I'm happy you liked it... Usually it's the first week of september, but I must have the confirmation of the day... it would be great if you could come ... maybe compete? :rock: anyway as soon as I have the exact days, I'll let you know :biggrin:

  15. Ha, probably didnt make much sense. Was just wondering about the system you set up with the blue rope

     

    I like to use a deviation anchorage such as the blue one on big trees to work on branches among the canopy (between the main anchorage and the branch where i put the blue rope). Hope I was clear :001_huh:

  16. Looks interesting. How is it to use?

     

    It's similar to a rope wrench but it has some advantages. It has a cam that keeps it still on the rope, so it doesn't need a stiff tether. It also has 3 differents chances to adjust the friction you want on the rope, according to the climber's weight or the climber's tastes.

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