nantmoel

witch elm or similar I think. They have seed like that. Lots here in Oslo

I thought its was some kind of Elm/Alder - thanks for the reply.

Can any of you here on this forum help me with the identification of this! Here are the seed pictures, they come out well before the leaves. My brother had it cut down a few weeks back and the tree surgeon said it was some kind of Lime! I am not convinced it is.

I got an Alaskan Mill 36", running a 44" Bar with a Husky 3120, I'm up in Mountain Ash if you ever want advice drop me a pm.

Nope its to stay outside! He now needs to dig the hole to concrete it in.

Milled some Oak today, someone asked me to mill them a piece of Oak (6"x6"x10') for a post so he could hang is 'Hammock', so we milled this: . Only just managed to carry it from when we milled it .

Hi

I have a large number of Oak boards that we milled two years ago and have been air drying, they are 18% moisture at the moment. I was wondering what they are worth? They are 35mm thick and up to 600mm wide and 2500 in length. Someone asked me for some the weekend but I don't have any idea what Oak is fetching these days.

I use a Husky 3120 on our mill, 44" Bar with helper handle.

Pictures please

I want a replacement cylinder with a decompression valve due to the strength needed to start the beast! I also have a 3120XP with a decompression valve and its a bit of piss to start. I will say that the 2101 starts on the second pull, it was our milling saw until I purchased the 3120XP, cracking saw.

Thanks for the replies.

Hi

Do anyone here know where I can purchase a new cylinder and piston set (complete with decompression valve) for a 2101XP Husky? There is nothing wrong with the saw just a bugger to pull start, weak arms! lol

Brian

Take a look here: The Bronze Oak Leaf | Woodworking and Sundry Other Avocations the plans he mentioned I bought but to be honest his description of how he dries his wood are far better than the purchased plans.

PM me if you want further details.

When you say 'will not run' what do you mean exactly?

 

Is it that the chain won't fit into the bar groove, and is the bar new?

 

If it is that the chain won't go in the groove, try taking a single drive link of the chain in one hand and bending the rest of the chain back on itself, out of the way, then running the single link all the way around the bar. This will establish whether there are pinched points. If one link won't go in, try it with another just to be sure.

 

If it's pinch points, inspect the rails carefully (if the bar is not new). You're looking to see if it has worn down the bar causing a slight lip, particularly on the inside. This can happen if the bar has simultaneously worn and splayed slightly.

 

Alec

Alec

The chain will not run around the bar - I will try the advice you have given to see if there any pinch points.

Brian

I mill wood with a friend and after taking his advise I finally purchase 3 (404 pitch) chains from Rob D. He was so helpful I cannot thank him enough. However after trying to fit the chains onto the saw (Husqvarna 3120), they just will not run in the bar.

The bar is a 'Granberg 44" .63, so the chain I purchased was a .63 pitch 404", can anyone shine a light on why this will not run in the bar, he chained the sprocket from the 3/8 to the 404.

Any advice on this would help.

Thanks

Brian

Yep is certainly looks like Beech to me.

Here are two bowls I turned for the wife to give as Christmas presents - I milled this Sycamore in about February.

Have any of you made a kiln to dry your milled wood? I have been thinking of making something small, just enough to take about a 4' length, but mainly to dry bowl blanks.

Any advice is welcome.

Brian

Been away for a week but did manage to make a new side gate between the downpours before I went! The gate is made of green Oak, I did however plane it before I made it. Bolts have now been cut and capped over.

Very nice, would look great turned into some bowls! How thick is it?

Our first milling ever the chain went blunt as hell - thought it was something we did wrong, I even telephoned Rob! Week later we found the problem - a stone in the middle of the piece of Sycamore we had cut!!

Here goes! Being a born again wood turner here are my offerings of wood I have milled myself: First picture is Yew, second is Burr Elm (Big J), and finally is Spalted Holly. More to follow - must get myself a kiln!

why change the sprocket just use 404 granberg ripping chain

We got 4 3/8" ripping chains!! Cheaper to buy a new sprocket than buy new 44" chains!

We have had our new beast for our Alaskan Mill - its a Husqvarna 3120XP, not fitted to the mill yet but used it today to cut some 36" Oak. Need to change the sprocket to take our 3/8 chains then we got some Holly we felled today to mill.

Very nice, slap some paint or watered down glue on the end grain and move the spacers to the end about 35mm in. helps stop the end from splitting.

The ends have been treated with PVA, spacer are there until Friday then new oner picks them up! Thanks for the advice.

Alec

Lol! the bloody picture rotated when I attached it!

Brian

Used our new Mini Mill today to dimension some Oak to 9" x 3", we used the Alaskan mill to cut it to 3" thick but used the Mini Mill to cut it to 9" wide, here is a picture of todays effort! Still bloody heavy the long pieces are 9'6" and the shorter one's 6'.