Husqvarna King

I had same problem when I had an entec, a friend of a friend was an electrical whizz and tried a couple of bits in the box but on re-fitting it still didn’t work. We changed it over to the Timberwolf 125/150 no stress system which is what the entec became 👍

6 hours ago, rapalaman said:

I’ll have a look at mine tomorrow and report back 👍

Nice one, thank you 👌

Was changing the blades on the a530 at work and noticed the drive shaft to the top roller has a bolt and or grub screw missing where it joins into the universal joint.

i can see that there is a key/keyway in this shaft and have put a nut and bolt through the shaft for now but should it have a grub screw adjacent to this?

Thanks in advance for any advice 

Steve’s small engine saloon on you tube has a good chainsaw tuning tutorial 👍

Try waney edge city lumber in North Weald Essex if that’s not too far

3 hours ago, West92 said:

I’m after a fuel cap for a Entec ch25 been looking all day and can not find one any suggestions?

I had a 1998 ch25ph, it had a float and a gauge on top of the cap to tell you how much fuel was in it. It got misplaced at a petrol station ( not by myself)! The Timberwolf 125 locking fuel cap did the job but never as good as the original. We had one of the emergency petrol station caps until it arrived 

5 minutes ago, adw said:

They still use the composite bearing cages, and seal pressed into the bearing itself, the bearing is an SKF bearing and there has been many improvements to the cage material, this all assuming the bearings on your saw have collapsed, the 560/562 also have the same bearings, the mk11/111 has a different supplier for the bearing.

That’s interesting, any idea if they normally last longer than the mark 1 before needing major work. All I’ve ever heard is that the 550 is the best 50cc saw to use but it is just unreliable and that’s it’s let down

3 minutes ago, adw said:

The 550 mk11 is a completely different beast to the mark l, sorry too many changes to list them all , but better cooling, more power, the 560/562 is on a bigger platform so a lot different to the 550.

Are the bearings any better and are they as prone to air leaks? I used to own a 560 that replaced my 357 and it was a very good saw over the 7 years I’d owned it. It would be around the 50cc mark on a 15” bar we’d want. Shame they don’t make the 346 any longer

3 minutes ago, adw said:

 

27 minutes ago, spudulike said:

The very odd one if dropped off and generally for firewood....a morning a month is a busy one nowadays.

I thought that was the case, appreciate your advice though, and not just on this thread 👍

Looking for a replacement are the mark 2 550 the same or has that side of things been beefed up a bit is the 560/562 the same also?

6 hours ago, adw said:

Saw looks quite tidy, pulling it apart does not take long, it’s what you find once done, if the cylinder cleans up ok then a piston, however if it wants main bearings as well it will start to get very expensive.

piston £80

Bearing £33

Bearing £6

Seal £10.50

Gasket set £14.50

To give you some idea, all plus vat plus fitting.

Appreciate that, thank you

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone know roughly how much this would cost to put right and is that worth it compared to a new saw. It’s an older mark 1 550 with three years work (arb not forestry). I work for a small company and the boss doesn’t want to replace with another that may only last a couple of years, especially when there are much older trouble free saws. The saw is still on its original guide bar, that must show how little it has done.

its a pretty clean saw as you can see.. except inside the cylinder of course 😬

2 minutes ago, spudulike said:

I don't like the look of all those streaks on the piston and if the decomp valve is OUT and the saw pretty much falls to earth when held by the starter then it is lacking a significant amount of compression.

The damage doesn't look like a heat seize so more likely, one of the main bearings has slowly failed....ouch.

Pull the cylinder off and take a closer look....if the compression is Way Down...as Elvis sang.

Are you still doing work on saws Spud?

An update….

saw does seem low on compression, it won’t pick up from the starter cord.

when turned upside down fuel doesn’t run out of the plug hole but it is wet with fuel.

Took the muffler off and attached pictures of piston

Will do 👌

Thanks, not what I wanted to hear 😬

31 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Are you sure that the piston hasn't nipped up? Does the engine compression feel normal on the recoil handle? It is worth removing the muffler first and taking a look at the piston through the exhaust port.

 

Other than that, does the carb prime OK with the primer bulb? If you pull the saw over say, 20 times on full choke, is the plug still dry? If you turn the engine upside down with the plug out, if you pull the saw over (upside down) does fuel run out?

 

If the saw is still dry, you may have a serious air leak in the engine but it is still worth checking out the gauze strainer and pump diaphragm.

Thanks for the reply Spud 👍 the saw is put away for the night but I did think that maybe the compression is a little low but it’s normally so easy to pull over that I don’t take much notice. I tried pulling it over several times and then checking the plug and it was still dry but I could smell fuel. Haven’t tried pulling over upside down so will try that tomorrow and have a look at the piston.

thanks again 

Using the 550 at work today and was chasing a willow stem through and the saw just stopped dead, had been running fine all day. On inspection it has a good spark but no fuel is getting through to the cylinder.

The fuel pipes on top of the carb look ok but I can’t guarantee that then haven’t got a small split. In the fuel tank the pipe is all attached and the fuel filter pickup is at the bottom of the tank.

What should be the first thing I look at and or change? 
Many thanks in advance 

As above but consider a Terram style liner as an addition depending on your soil type, will stop your aggregate migrating into the soil and future sinking. I had always used larger hardcore to a depth of at least 200mm and then capped with type one, usually cheaper to do it like that 👍

4 hours ago, WirralBoy said:

That took me a minute to get that one 🙈

I’d be tempted to try a tirfor and see if you can barrel roll it from the base to get it down

Definitely Viburnum tinus, have always found that they smell really bad after they have been cut back, and attacked by the beetle