Husqvarna King
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Everything posted by Husqvarna King
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I do agree, but definitely not with a blade, I got hit from a little 130 engine a few years ago that hurt ?, let alone a proper blade on a proper engined strimmer
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Fitted the shredder guard today and both a 300mm shredder blade and a 270mm shredder blade. There's clearance I think it'd be ok, what do you guys think?
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Ok, so I ordered the shredder guard for the 460. But is says max diameter 270mm, and I had bought two 300 mm Oregon shredder blades. Do they fit? How do you guys work around this?
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That's what imagined would probably happen. Appreciate you putting the photos in, gives a good scale of the shredder guard too. Thank you ?
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That would be great, thanks. Just want change overs to be as easy as possible ?
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Thanks for the reply, yes it looks like only for line trimming....this is the guard
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Hi, I have Stihl 460 brush cutter with just a strimmer head with the mowing guard(with black rubber flap and knife for cord length. But....I want to run some blades, double and triple mulching blades and also the metal Tri flat blade. What do you guys recommend, obviously to prevent objects getting thrown I want a guard, even though I know it slows cutting. Can I just take the cord knife and flap off? Should I buy the metal blade guard? Is the shredder guard necessary or too restrictive? I will be swapping from line to blade on some sites so just want the best all round setup if possible. Thanks
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Had a 98 entec that I only sold a couple of year ago. It had a no stress unit. When it broke,around 2010 I had it replaced with the same system as the timberwolf 125/150, it only cost 3-400 quid from memory (at prochip) and was still working well when I sold it ?
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Never get bored of any of his videos, superb work and big balls.... I remember seeing a video of him back notching a top and the coming down and felling the other direction so that it folded into a small drop zone, it was superb but I can't seem to find it
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Don't sell it!! Really regret selling my 357, great saw and that looks in good nick. It'll still be going when the newer ones are on the scrap heap
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Wish I had known this when I have had to lightly reduce tree of heaven, bloody horrible trees to get out on limbs to prune lightly.....would have been a good way to get out of it ?
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I used the 1300 on a job helping a friend in a narrow access job. It was quite impressive for its cost and size, but I wouldn't want it any smaller
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Sharpener and Sharpening Help Please
Husqvarna King replied to Witterings's topic in Maintenance help
I thought these (Stihl ones) looked a good idea....these pics have really put me off. Thanks for your review ? -
Another vote for spectrum, great for sharpening too...and you get sweeties ?
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Sounds like a good bit of kit, did you modify it yourself? I'm pretty careful with my saws but waiting for the day it falls in half
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I have the mark1 540, I love it and it's superb on take downs. Maybe a bit flimsy if you have workers using it although apparently they changed the AV springs for buffers in the newer one so must be better, although I'd heard not quite as much go in as the earlier models like mine. It comes with different size top handles which is a nice touch. The 201 has improved since it first came out and is meant to be pretty good and seems to be the more popular with most of the guys I work with nowadays. I was put off by three of the 201's in the shop having cracked oil filler guards/casing....would have meant that as it got dragged through the tree the oil cap would have taken the bashing. Don't rule out the echo....on hot days I'd choose it for reliability and happy to put up with the slightly less power. Good luck with whatever you choose ?
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The sub base is the drive way, the gravel just makes it look nice, gravel as shallow as possible really and compacted in. Definitely no more than 2inch. 1 ton of gravel will do approx 15-20sqM at 2"thick
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I took down two sycs with this around 10 years ago, remember asking on here what it was, two days cutting in as many days....no problems as far as I know. Thanks for the heads up ?
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I use 3mm square or star line, just whittle an edge off to get in the holes on the standard head. If you're cutting fine grass the thinner is better but I find 3mm the best all round
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I always clean off before fitting new blades yes but I haven't checked if the blade pockets are tight, do these have a torque? I always torque the blades ?
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Blades had done about 10 hours, the inside blade was fine and good edge on main part of blad in photo. That's the 4th set to have worn exactly the same way right on the outer edge of flywheel. Will whip the belts off next week and have a look/listen. Cheers
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I bought a low hour timberwolf 125 from orange plant last year. I haven't done many hours on it yet but change the blades much sooner than recommended to keep the machine in good condition. Each time the edge of the outer blade has been badly worn with the rest of the blade and other inside blade being in good condition. I have run my finger along anvils and last time took off a very small bur, this time it had still done the same, any ideas? It chips very well and I can't hear anything when I turn the flywheel by hand
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Concrete is permeable, seen it before but I concreted some drop down bollards with normal concrete, they are inside undercover and even though in a concrete Wellington they still fill with groundwater in winter and a lot of it. I was surprised how much. If I remember correctly I think you have to be careful with waterproofer and reinforcing not sure if they go together. Good luck ?
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Put back together today, paint still soft though after 72hrs, scratched with finger nail needed a little more paint needed although all but under the spare wheel is smooth. Although it was ral2004 orange it hasn't matched well really. I wouldn't recommend 2k non isocyanate aerosol to anyone. Hope it hardens ☹️
