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Nothing particularly hard to be honest, I'm just not feeling it at the moment. I've lost all fluidity, and yes I expected that to happen....but even so I can't see it will ever be as fluid a technique as Ddrt. There is always going to be stopping and starting, faffing around attaching ascenders etc etc.

I will try the freeclimb technique you mention tomorrow.

 

Stick with it Steve. Don't go overboard on the gear. Not much to gain with removals. But big trees for pruning, way easier. You can access so much more of the tree via one route....or on your way up for that matter. No worrying or consideration of rope friction or any of that. The fluency stuff is not so much lost....it just changes shape as does your strategy.

 

When I switched over I kept thinking I should be busier, out of habit I suppose. Busy fool more like. All that pulling and thrusting about. Sooner or later you'll do a big climb and think 'God that was easy'. The adjustments take time, but they will come good soon enough. All these converts, even Bolam, cant all be wrong.

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I saw someone set up an easy 2:1 system for branch walks. Wrap three or four turns of rope around tbe spine of a carabiner. That hold it in place, then you just clip the tail of your rope in.

I don't get on with srt. It's brilliant for pines ect and when your on your spikes as you don't need to faff so much with ascender ect. I found a karabiner on a small 4 wrap prusik before you head out on the branch and put the tail (if your using the hitch climbing pulley) thru and spare karabiner/tool clip on the hitch climber.

 

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I think it's important to remember that at its most basic use, SRT is pretty much the same as DRT. You get a high anchor point and start work. Leave the HAAS in the kit bag and just use a foot ascender I only use my HAAS on properly long ascents in a free hang. Otherwise there is not much advantage and the faff outweighs the ease.

 

Learn how to set anchor points quicker. This can be so much easier than DRT just bung a line over everything and base tie. Get to the top and tell groundy to unclip base tie to install tip tie.

 

Don't be an old git who is stuck in his ways. This is how you can keep climbing while the DRTers will all retire due to their bodies failing.

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been finding SRT with the top tie excellent for removals, just seems to work so well, especially on bigger multi-stemmed spreading trees like HCs where you can fix re-directs at the top of a secondary stem then head down that stem to start rigging off branches upwards but always with the over head TIP rather than having to fight the angle of your main TIP. The ability to use re-directs in a much more effective and easier way than you would with DdRT is what makes SRT worthwhile.

 

Steve if you give up on SRT it's your loss mate. Using it on smaller/medium spike removals with a top tie is a good way to get a proper feel for the hitch with the wrench, forget about the ascenders just now - unless you got a long ascent into a taller pruning job.

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