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Iroko worktop


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Hi Copford

I have just resanded and reoiled our Iroko worktops after 10 years of use.

It maybe the way you have oiled them as i have used the same products as yourself. I have fitted many solid worktops for my customers and had no problems.

Firstly once the wood has been sanded i tip straight out of the bottle a puddle of the oil and with some kitchen paper spread this around to cover all the surface be careful about it running off the front edge ( put newspaper on the floor, to catch any drips). Then leave for about 10mins, then gently wipe off with kitchen paper any that has not soaked into the wood. Then leave to dry overnight.

Repeat every 6 months.

I called back to a customer who i made their bespoke kitchen that had Iroko tops and he had reoiled every 6 months for 15 years and it looked like glass !

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Is your worktop a lump of reclaimed chemistry lab workbench? We've had a few come through over the years. You can tell the bench tops where the naughty boys sat at the back of the room, loads of graffiti, name carving and poxy chewing gum :)

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Not sure it will work on Iroko, I asked their tech dept and they advised not to try. But I have used it on our oak flooring and work tops and its a fantastic product and really easy to apply. Might be worth a test on a bit of scrap Iroko.

 

Never tried Iroko myself tbf. it is a timber I try to avoid!

However, I find with less absorbent woods that if you thin the treatex down with the treatex thinners it works fine especially knock back between coats.

 

It works great on floors tho, the tech dept. there told me it is what they use on the wooden floors at the Natural History Museum so is very hard wearing.

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I got Ex School Labratory Teak worktops, 1.0"-1.25" thick, finished with (boiled?) Linseed oil down through the years.

Murder to clean down and plane, but no issues, fitted around 3 Belfast sinks in the Utility rooms, finished with more boiled Linseed oil purchased from B & Q.

Zero issues

Marcus

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