Echo CS-501SX is here!

[Popsy]

Echo 501 users:

How do you remove the sprocket and clutch?

What do you use to stop the piston?

[R Mac]

I haven't had to remove mine yet but it probably says in the manual. If it doesn't say then I'd use a bit of climbing rope.

[SawTroll]

The 1201 looks like a its a bit of a beast. Now if was CE compliant, I'd be interested.

 

The power to weight (and cc) ratio is very low though, as on most Echo saws.

 

The exceptions are the 620 (that is OK regarding power, but not top class, and not light enough) and the 501 (that is light, but still lacking a bit on power, compared to true 50cc pro saws).

[Commando]

The power to weight (and cc) ratio is very low though, as on most Echo saws.

 

 

 

The exceptions are the 620 (that is OK regarding power, but not top class, and not light enough) and the 501 (that is light, but still lacking a bit on power, compared to true 50cc pro saws).

 

 

Yawn!🙄

[SawTroll]

Echo 501 users:

How do you remove the sprocket and clutch?

What do you use to stop the piston?

 

You actually need a piston stop to remove a nut on the outside of the sprocket, despite it is an inboard clutch saw design.

On most inboard clutch saws, you just have to pry off an e-clip, but not on this one.

 

An incredibly clumsy and old-fashioned design.

[SawTroll]

Yawn!🙄

 

The truth may bore you - but it still is the truth.

[SawTroll]

It uses the same 041 mount (OREGON) as CS-500 (the only difference is tensioner located in clutch cover).

The rim is "small 7" which means it's 18720 for a 3/8 (OREGON)

 

Sure, you can look up analogues from other manufacturers based on this info.

 

As I understand it, the correct bar mount is either the D176 or the K216, not the K041, that has a completely different oiling system.

 

The slot width (that fits over the bar bolts) is the same, but there are important differences regarding the tail width and oil hole locations. Until I checked with the Oregon guide I was fairly sure that K216 was correct, based on what I have read earlier - but both the North American and the UK Oregon guides says D176.

 

Can anyone that has one confirm the correct bar mount for the 501SX?

Edited November 27, 2016 by SawTroll

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

The power to weight (and cc) ratio is very low though, as on most Echo saws.

 

The exceptions are the 620 (that is OK regarding power, but not top class, and not light enough) and the 501 (that is light, but still lacking a bit on power, compared to true 50cc pro saws).

 

Do you actually bother to read independant tests?

 

The truth may bore you - but it still is the truth.

 

Our gripe is that you peddle false facts as truth. Nothing worse. You should go into politics; you're wasted on saws.

[Commando]

The truth may bore you - but it still is the truth.

 

 

One man's truth is another man's absolute shi*e!😉

[stihl fan]

Echo 501 users:

How do you remove the sprocket and clutch?

What do you use to stop the piston?

 

If you haven't got it off yet there is a clip on Youtube "a look at the new echo 390esx", by Chainsawbars .He goes though it, I'm assuming the 501 and the 390 are similar set up.