Quadchip shearbars.

[Mick Dempsey]

definately worth doing. Even on the bigger chippers if your anvil/bedknife is not sharp you end up with more sticks than chips in the mulch when chipping small stuff

 

On bigger logs it doesnt make much difference

 

That makes sense.

[Mick Dempsey]

On reflection it explains the poor pulling in of very thin stuff on my TW as well, I would throw in a bigger piece and it was like the first day I bought it.

They're fairly easy to do on a 150, once the roller box is off.

[openspaceman]

definately worth doing. Even on the bigger chippers if your anvil/bedknife is not sharp you end up with more sticks than chips in the mulch when chipping small stuff

 

On bigger logs it doesnt make much difference

 

I've asked this before but no wiser: is it worth hardfacing or brazing tungsten carbide tips to shear bars/anvils?

[kimtree]

I've asked this before but no wiser: is it worth hardfacing or brazing tungsten carbide tips to shear bars/anvils?

 

I dont know the answer but over in Oz you can get heat treated hardened blades and anvils aftermarket

 

I tried hardened knives in my 1250 vermeer and they went very well lasted 50-70 hours

Then i tried a set in the 1800xl they lasted maybe 4 hours and were completely stuffed afterwards .The aftermarket blades were just too hard.

The anvil in the 1800xl is also fairly soft and has worn the metal away in the middle of the bar to the point that i would have to have it surface ground just to get it flat again.Instead i have put a new one in and will rotate it more often (every 200hrs)

[Ty Korrigan]

Ah, you know, when chipping conifer hedges we have noticed a fall in chip quality this last year.

I usually sell the chip to a farmer for his furnace but recently it's become too stringy for his feed system.

I moved back to square blades from disc and this has helped.

I'm off to wrestle with the machine this very minute!

Ty

[cornish wood burner]

I've asked this before but no wiser: is it worth hardfacing or brazing tungsten carbide tips to shear bars/anvils?

 

I doubt it very much. If you could get the tungsten carbide brazed on I expect it would be too brittle or would not adhere good enough. I don't know the steel used in chipper anvils but I suspect its a closely guarded secret. Must be hard but also tough enough to withstand the shock loads. Even if you could find a hard enough hard face material I expect it would put too much stress into the steel even with a padding layer. Distortion problems and stress cracks might result in an unexpected close look at some of your blades and anvil. Never worth the risk of something shattering.

[Ty Korrigan]

On reflection it explains the poor pulling in of very thin stuff on my TW as well, I would throw in a bigger piece and it was like the first day I bought it.

 

That's it!

Ty

[Ty Korrigan]

Well we got them out after a struggle.

3 years of sap and resin glued them in well.

Vertical shear bar is back in place but the horizontal is held in place by 2 bolts and shimmed with 2 washers, one of which is proving rather 'testing' to align with the bolt.

A hole should be drilled in the chassis to allow access to this same bolt, perhaps it now is on later models.

The bottom shear bar has very little wear whilst the vertical one (images of) has been well rounded off.

Best of all, the feeling of doing it myself with a mechanical mate to help out.

Not many mysteries left for us as far as Quadchips are concerned!

Once the bottom bar is in place I'll install the new fixed roller motor when the parts arrive Tuesday.

Looking forward to testing it out!

Ty

[Ty Korrigan]

Knickers and damnation!

DHL took the paperwork and left the parcel behind chez Greenmech:sneaky2:...

Ty

[Ty Korrigan]

Ah well...

Ty