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Problem cutting a large trunk into logs


Morgan1936
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Many thanks for all the replies.

 

Not only was the chain new so was the bar and the saw. My first cuts since buying the 365 last week.

 

It must be my technique. As one cut was fine the problem was the other 20!

Being an irregular user I have had no problems in the past with smaller trees but this one has proved difficult.

 

The tree is far too large to roll over but fortunately it has fallen on many smaller branches and intentionally placed posts so was off the ground for most of its length.

 

Maybe putting too much pressure on the saw instead of letting it do the work, Still some more to cut so will take on board your advice and try again.

 

I feel I cannot contribute much on here, anyone having problems with old cars, I know a little bit more about them!

 

Bertram Hill - Home

 

Thanks again, Great Forum !

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You may have hit dirt or metal on the start of the 2nd cut! Then it's all downhill from there!

Saw heats up, starts getting blunter and so on.

I was cutting up stuff more than twice bar length today, I had to sharpen 3 times in an hour and to get the middle I then had to cut a section out the side and then start cutting again so bar could get further in to catch the centre fibres!

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You may have hit dirt or metal on the start of the 2nd cut! Then it's all downhill from there!

Saw heats up, starts getting blunter and so on.

 

 

That's exactly what I thought. Have you closely examined your chain. Are the cutters on one side blunter? Maybe there was a stone or a nail embedded in the tree on your first cut. Grazing something like that will trash all the cutters on one side of the bar and the saw will not cut straight...

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Hi

 

I would check the chain as suggested above, I think the largest Ive cut with my 365 is about 30" & seemed to cut OK but I diddnt push it.

 

If the chain is beyond hand sharpening then FR Jones has a sharpening service ive used thats very good.

 

I looked for so 3/8th .058 gauge semi skip but couldnt find any, but it may exist it may be possible to make a semi skip chain by removing every third cutter & raker with a grind stone, so a long bar with S skip could be a possibility

 

 

N

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Hi

 

I would check the chain as suggested above, I think the largest Ive cut with my 365 is about 30" & seemed to cut OK but I diddnt push it.

 

If the chain is beyond hand sharpening then FR Jones has a sharpening service ive used thats very good.

 

I looked for so 3/8th .058 gauge semi skip but couldnt find any, but it may exist it may be possible to make a semi skip chain by removing every third cutter & raker with a grind stone, so a long bar with S skip could be a possibility

 

 

N

 

Full skip Oregon is 73JGX082C the 82 being 82drivers so 24" . I assume the number would be the same other than 28..30...32...etc for the drive count .

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Full skip Oregon is 73JGX082C the 82 being 82drivers so 24" . I assume the number would be the same other than 28..30...32...etc for the drive count .

 

Thanks Stubby

 

I may go down that route myself very handy to know, so a 73JGX092G for the 28" Rob D Sugi bar :biggrin:

 

much appreciated - sorry for slight divert but is sort of relevant

 

 

N

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Full skip Oregon is 73JGX082C the 82 being 82drivers so 24" . I assume the number would be the same other than 28..30...32...etc for the drive count .

 

A Husky 24" is 84 drive links.:001_tongue:

 

Rob D already stocks 75JGX for Stihl saws,Hopefully He will soon have some 73JGX for 3/8 Huskies.:thumbup1:

 

A 20" (72 DL) husky bar is only 18" usable length , with dogs on.:001_rolleyes:

 

I often use a 24" with full skip on my 365 Special.:001_smile:

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A Husky 24" is 84 drive links.:001_tongue:

 

Rob D already stocks 75JGX for Stihl saws,Hopefully He will soon have some 73JGX for 3/8 Huskies.:thumbup1:

 

A 20" (72 DL) husky bar is only 18" usable length , with dogs on.:001_rolleyes:

 

I often use a 24" with full skip on my 365 Special.:001_smile:

 

OK thanks, noted 73JGX084C for 24" bar

 

N

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Sounds like youre slightly forcing it to me . What works for me in similar scenarios is to lean over the log , point your saw at as near as perpendicular to the log as possible and start your cut , even if it goes only the depth of the bar youre effectively scribing your finished cut .

The track is visible on the opposite side when you go to finish then .

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