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thorndene forestry
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If it "tubular " vegitation and docks nettles and even bramble the the Diamond Edge will mullar it . More toward woody solid brush you would be better off with a blade or even a clearing saw .

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If it "tubular " vegitation and docks nettles and even bramble the the Diamond Edge will mullar it . More toward woody solid brush you would be better off with a blade or even a clearing saw .

Totally agree Stubby but if site rules say no blades then he has to make do with lines. I am in the same boat because of stones on my patch.

I use mainly 4 mm diamond edge cutting woody weeds, saplings etc but one thing that seems to happen is that if I let the revs drop then that's when its likely to break.

As a fellow diamond edge fan have you noticed the same?

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Totally agree Stubby but if site rules say no blades then he has to make do with lines. I am in the same boat because of stones on my patch.

I use mainly 4 mm diamond edge cutting woody weeds, saplings etc but one thing that seems to happen is that if I let the revs drop then that's when its likely to break.

As a fellow diamond edge fan have you noticed the same?

 

It does not break at the head end but some times if you clout something it pulls through against the sprung jaws making it tricky to get hold of the end to pull it through and fit a new lenght . It does shred the end a bit if you are asking too much of it but that is the nature of the game I suppose .

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Totally agree Stubby but if site rules say no blades then he has to make do with lines. I am in the same boat because of stones on my patch.

I use mainly 4 mm diamond edge cutting woody weeds, saplings etc but one thing that seems to happen is that if I let the revs drop then that's when its likely to break.

As a fellow diamond edge fan have you noticed the same?

 

Correct, absolutely no blades allowed on site as they fling stones out, whereas cord doesn't. (WTF??)

Yes, top tip.....keep the revs as high as possible when cutting woody stuff. I find the best way is to lift out and up then drop the head on to the weed at full revs. . . . It will cut what it can. Leave the rest.

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It does not break at the head end but some times if you clout something it pulls through against the sprung jaws making it tricky to get hold of the end to pull it through and fit a new lenght . It does shred the end a bit if you are asking too much of it but that is the nature of the game I suppose .

 

Im sure that this heat has an adverse effect on the cord.

Last week it was grey, drizzly (torrential) and about 15C lower. Cord fared a lot better then.

Snapping at the eyelet is just from asking too much from the cord!!

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Plunge cutting is good with a blade . With line sometimes if find it better to lots of sweeps stood still gradally getting lower . This has a mulching effect but of course is time consuming and fuel consumimg . If you are able to cut it low and " lay it over " then fine .

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Im sure that this heat has an adverse effect on the cord.

Last week it was grey, drizzly (torrential) and about 15C lower. Cord fared a lot better then.

Snapping at the eyelet is just from asking too much from the cord!!

 

I dont have an eyelet . See my pic of " jet cut " head in my first post . So dont ever suffer that problem . The fact that it was drizzeling helps as the line absorbs water ( hygroscopic ) reducing the brittleness .

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It does not break at the head end but some times if you clout something it pulls through against the sprung jaws making it tricky to get hold of the end to pull it through and fit a new lenght . It does shred the end a bit if you are asking too much of it but that is the nature of the game I suppose .

 

My portek head clamps via the threaded skid plate with the line running through to cut both sides, slightly smaller diameter and no lead in like the jet fit, so in the limit snaps close in. Keep it whistling and it seems ok. Jet fit is certainly better shaped but we have had one ratchet fail. Not a problem as we just use the other pair. Different heads have different problems but both are streets ahead of a normal manual or bump head IMO.

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