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Gear-less, tail-less retreivable redirect

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Hi Dan, your incredible brain strikes again huh?! I like it, got me thinking though that re-directs really need to be put into categories, close ones, quickly used ones, out-of-sight, big pendulum, static/load sharing etc etc. Where does this one fit?


Hi Paul, hope you're well.


I'd say that this would fit into the short term-static category. I wouldn't imagine I'd hang on it for two hours, but then again I'd not imagine hanging on any redirect for that long very often.

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Have you used this for work positioning for a fair bit of climbing/work or just for a quick redirect to get one branch and then come back in.

I think it looks great and was going to try it yesterday but could have been on it for a good 2hrs so thought I'd better just check what kind of stuff you have put it through so far.


See above. I'd happily use it while routing down the outside of a segment of canopy on a reduction, or a stem removal etc. Tied correctly, in the right place, there is no reason for it to undo itself without you expecting it, though it does need planning on where you will put it, where you will retrieve it from and where you'll be going when it's loaded.

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That's really ingenious. Bet the H&S bods would have a problem over possible accidental release not while it's loaded but while it is momentarily slack in a position where fall potential would suddenly increase by the length of all the rope used in the knot. Anything over 500mm is I think a no-no.


As I've said, tied correctly in the right place, it shouldn't come out accidentally. I do see your point with slack lengths, but this could apply to any redirect, or even base anchored systems in the event of a limb/equipment failure.


A possible refinement would be to put a few twists in the final bight that is passed up through, because otherwise on bigger stems or with irregular bark one loop of the bight might not be pressed as firmly as the other and could drop out. If it is the working end loop, it will be constantly being tugged and the loop could inch its way out. It does this anyway, I have managed to get this not to collapse after repeated twitching. I can try and show this refinement in a pic of you want.


I tried it with a twist, but personally felt it decreased the loading/cinching of the bight, maybe it can vary with rope types? I'm predominantly using it with Cougar Blue, perhaps a softer rope would have a different behaviour in the cinch?


I have also tried a little variation that allows you to recover the rope by plling on the static end rather than the working end. Only tested so far on a kitchen chair, but it does seem to work. Easier to show than to explain. Again pic could be provided.


Haven't tried this yet but I see what you mean. I'll give it a go. If you were in the situation to retrieve from the static end, perhaps just a drop through a fork would give better results? You need a fork for this redirect and rolling a loop from above could be an issue.



Great idea, by the way. I can see its possibility in DRT too, where recoverable redirects are a pain in the bum. Quite straigthforward now that think about it as long as, like in SRT, a suitable form of fork is available.


Assuming you mean DdRT, I'm intrigued how you'd tie a static redirect in a dynamic system without incorporating extra rope or hardware. Could you explain your idea here please?

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