Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Turning your rough boards into lovely smooth ones


Peat
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm just now starting to process some of the 1st boards I milled with my Alaskan. I've got myself a big 1000w belt sander and i've been using it today on some big Sycamore boards that someone is buying off me me for their kitchen. Its taken about 4 hours of sanding on these 2 boards and they aren't finished yet. This is partly due to being inexperienced with the mill and getting a rough finish in places, especially at the beginning and end of the cut. Need to get some 40 grit belts.

 

Now i'm wondering about the sense in cutting big through and through boards like I often see posted (and like i've been cutting). I'm thinking that if I was to cut straight edged, narrower boards I could rent a mates planer thicknesser for a day and get loads of boards done in the time it takes me to do one with the sander. Also it would be flat and paralell, which is very hard to accomplish with a belt sander.

 

So i'm wondering what techniques people on here use? Do some of you then rip up your through and through boards and put them through a thicknesser? Any other tips or tricks?

 

Cheers

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hi,

 

I just sell mine as they are. Most customers process them themselves and wouldn't expect them smooth. They are most interested in moisture. I don't think you would recoup your investment in time in sanding or planning yourself.

 

If you need some planed for personal use then try a timber merchant or joiner and pay their hourly rate for machining.

 

Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd follow Steve's advice re the hand planer, then go 60, 80, 120 grits.

 

Planer/thicknessers over 12" are hard to come by in single phase, so unless you have access to 3 phase you'll have to bear with it for the wider boards.

the alternative is to square edge them, plane them and joint them. Can make interesting patterns if you bookmatch. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We use a Makita KP312 planer that uses disposable type knives but planes 312mm wide. We use it for planing oak and doug fir/larch beams before converting into timber frame buildings but it could be used to smooth out very wide boards before sanding to a finish. Not cheap though, you could get a startrite table saw and a cheap thicknesser for the same price but it takes up a lot less room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd follow Steve's advice re the hand planer, then go 60, 80, 120 grits.

 

Planer/thicknessers over 12" are hard to come by in single phase, so unless you have access to 3 phase you'll have to bear with it for the wider boards.

the alternative is to square edge them, plane them and joint them. Can make interesting patterns if you bookmatch. :)

 

 

Peat, check out ebay for a 240v one and you should have some joy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.