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bluemerlin
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Well done bud . Did you fix what caused the saw to nip up in the first place ? Maybe an air leak somewhere perhaps . Don't want it going again !

All the pipe work needed replacing. The little pipe on the inlet manifold was perforated. Carb settings were pretty lean.

 

Cylinder was very scored pictures don't really show it.

 

It's my first saw but an engine is an engine. Chain and sprocket have been hammered so treating it to new. Guidebar is in good condition.

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The little short piece that curves around and almost doubles back on itself? That's the impulse pipe. Just make sure its good when replaced. Slightly to long or to short they have a habit of kinking on the bend restricting flow.

Yeah that will cause it to run lean.

Good job sorted.

 

Oh and make sure you check chain sizeto be safe when you order as they can either be .325 or 3/8

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The little short piece that curves around and almost doubles back on itself? That's the impulse pipe. Just make sure its good when replaced. Slightly to long or to short they have a habit of kinking on the bend restricting flow.

Yeah that will cause it to run lean.

Good job sorted.

 

Oh and make sure you check chain sizeto be safe when you order as they can either be .325 or 3/8

 

Thanks for the advice. That's the one.

 

I checked the guidebar and cross referenced on Oregons website.

 

I've done the lantra training for CS30, and lantra training for CS31 in a couple of weeks. Not sure if I'll do the assessment at the moment.

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  • 1 month later...
I've had chance to use the saw in anger now, it's not quite right.

 

Doing a little bit of research shows that Husky replaced the plastic clamp on the inlet with at metal one. I think I'll perform the same change and see if it improves things.

 

They where updated due to some airleaks. You can modify the original and use a steel jubilee clip/hose clamp. If memory serves me correct the stihl 044/ms440 clamp fits ideal :sneaky2:

With the saw running just give it a small squirt of wd40 around the inlet manifold and listen for any note change in the saw which would obviously dictate an airleak.

Which decompression system is fitted to your saw? If its the early "piped type" rather than the more modern decomp theres probably more chance of that leaking than the inlet manifold. Just blank off the pipe off at the front of the cylinder and fit the modern decomp valve.

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