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axe handle


se7enthdevil
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i've used ash for last 5 years on splitting mauls. seems good, can take a bit of flex which stops it breaking and also means less shock your hands which is always nice! oak i've found to be strong but can shatter/be hard on the hands.

 

good luck!

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Interesting question. An old manual I have on the mechanical properties of timbers gives the following classifications for Shock Resistance:

 

Maple, Greenheart : High

Oak, Sycamore : Low

Beech, Hornbean, Robinia : Medium

Ash : Medium

Hickory : Very high

 

Wouldn't trust Greenheart as it is very straight grained and very prone to splitting. It's so dense it would also add significantly to the weight of the tool. Sycamore the same, not enough resistance to splitting.

Of the timbers you have, I'd go for Robinia, it seems to have the best combination of qualities for the job.

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looking at the mechanical properties of ash versus the robinia i'm going to try a handle out of the robinia first, i don't mind making two if i'm proved wrong.

 

mechanically robinia is superior to ash be it american or english and is almost on a par with the mechanics of hickory even superior in resisting crushing.

 

i've never made an axe handle before so if i have to make more than one then it will be good practice for me...

 

i might have some ash left over from a project i'm about to do so may be able to make two handles anyway.

 

thanks for the suggestions guys...

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Good project! Went through a similar process a few years back! {several times....Even tried beach....:blushing:}

 

Greenheart is very splintery,

 

Robina is great,:thumbup1:

 

Laburnam & Wych elm are brilliant.:thumbup:

 

All has to be straight grained & quarter sawn of course.

 

Spiral

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Good project! Went through a similar process a few years back! {several times....Even tried beach....:blushing:}

 

Greenheart is very splintery,

 

Robina is great,:thumbup1:

 

Laburnam & Wych elm are brilliant.:thumbup:

 

All has to be straight grained & quarter sawn of course.

 

Spiral

 

Sniff!

 

SHOULD BE CLEAVED, or split, to follow the grain and thereby maximize strength and resilence.

regards,

m

PS

I use "branchs" picked for straightness or required curvature, and trimmed down as required.

Really really should invest in a spokeshave.

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i take it beech didn't perform well then????????????

 

 

pity as i've loads of straight grained bits kicking about waiting to be used...

 

glad to hear robinia did well, i look forward to making them.

 

Beech broke in first first hour or so... Grain looked perfect but snapped showed realy short grain.

 

Sniff!

 

SHOULD BE CLEAVED, or split, to follow the grain and thereby maximize strength and resilence.

regards,

m

PS

I use "branchs" picked for straightness or required curvature, and trimmed down as required.

Really really should invest in a spokeshave.

 

Yep cleaved is the way to go, from green originally of course. Mine were draw knifed & spoke shaved but from quarter sawn stock , with straight grain, {not spiral or cross.] but picking the required shape from the board... same as cabriole legs.

 

The sad bit is my 7lb Elwell felling axe {That I use for splitting crutch & knotty timbers is needing a new one.}

 

Only suitable timber Ive nowadays got is some old purpleheart Ive had in the attick for nearly 15 years. But cant drawknife that the grains to interlocked.

 

Guess Ill have to follow your branch ,sapling method.

 

Spiral

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