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stock fencing


easylife
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Hi, been asked to quote on installing 30 meters of stock fencing, customer needs to prevent his dog escaping. Customer already has materials. Basically fence will run parallel with established conifer hedge. I was wondering the depth,and distance between posts and methods to tension and secure mess to posts. I am also trying to find a solution in how to retain the base of the mess to the ground ie to prevent the dog digging underneath I intend to knock posts in by hand with post knocker tool no access to machine operated set up. Could be interesting due to the adjacent hedge i have the basic tools post hole spade wrecking bar, breaker etc. Finally, what would bea fair price for the job As always your suggestions are much appreciated

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I did something similar at home for my dogs. With two of you shouldn't take much more than an hour depending on the digging. If the pooch is a digger a turn out of about 6" should solve it but it would be better with rabbit netting.

 

You'll want a set of monkey strainers for tensioning properly. One of the draper straining bars might be ok though for what your doing though.

 

 

 

 

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You will need straining posts each end dug in to a depth of about 2'6" and set stay struts in line with the wire. Pack the strainers with stones and obviously soil. Use high tensile plain wire along the bottom, about 3" off the ground, tighten it with a wire strainer, this will act as your line for the posts also, remember a trainer is needed at every corner to take the tension of the wire as it changed direction. Make holes for your intermediate posts with a bar, and knock them in at intervals of 2 - 2.5 m, then, leave the job for a day or so to let the ground settle around your strainers. 6" diameter strainer posts will be great. Then come and hang your netting, leave a square length out to fold over your staples on the straining post, fold it over and hammer the folds flat, then staple the spare square to the post, strain the netting a strand at a time with a lever starting from the bottom, staple it and work your way up, leaving the narrow squares at the bottom, set it 2" above your plain wire. If the plain wire is tight enough, the dog will not get under, if its a Doberman or nasty dog use barbed wire on the bottom, better that than it escapes and eats someone's children!

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I did something similar at home for my dogs. With two of you shouldn't take much more than an hour depending on the digging. If the pooch is a digger a turn out of about 6" should solve it but it would be better with rabbit netting.

 

You'll want a set of monkey strainers for tensioning properly. One of the draper straining bars might be ok though for what your doing though.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

 

I'd be really impressed if 2 of you could dig in 2 strainers, knock in 5 posts, strut the strainers, tie off the netting on the strainers, strain the net, tie off or gripple the join and staple up all within an hour.

 

To the O.P. the above should give you a good idea about how to do the job. If you want to stop the dog digging under add some chicken wire turned under a turf, about a foot out would be plenty, attach it to the netting with hog rings.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

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I'd be really impressed if 2 of you could dig in 2 strainers, knock in 5 posts, strut the strainers, tie off the netting on the strainers, strain the net, tie off or gripple the join and staple up all within an hour.

 

To the O.P. the above should give you a good idea about how to do the job. If you want to stop the dog digging under add some chicken wire turned under a turf, about a foot out would be plenty, attach it to the netting with hog rings.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

 

 

Then I'm glad you're impressed!

 

 

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Depends on the type spec of netting and job.

But possibly not as easy as u'd think

 

Possibly i'd say if u don't know wot ur doing get somone else to do it, not meaning to be cheeky but most on here would not like a fencer trying to fell/hack down a tree.

 

Timber fences are easy for a beginner, even rabbit net can be bodged fairly easily but wire stock net can be a nightmare esp for short distances, hard to pull wire tight enough without posts moving.

bryseri is not far away althou, i always put strainers in ground 40" or 3' 6", not that easy to pack them properly tight unless u know wot ur doing esp with a short net fence

 

Most fencers will be getting up to 5.50 to 6 quid a m now but thats for normal sized jobs

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Thanks for all replys,

 

Brynseiri the job would be done over a couple of days to allow ground to settle.

Excuses my ignorance are trainers posts angled to the support posts

 

Country Boy fair point horses for coursers, would you ever consider setting corner posts in post crete or i am out of order. until i have seen the job I am not sure what items the customer as purchased

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Many folk do use concerte for the strainers but u shouldn't. Seen builders using it for normal intermediate posts too on silly wee 3 line wire fences

 

It is a knack putting the strainers in by hand, probably a dying knack with the rise in chappers.

Not many folk will do it as so time consuming and hard work.

Doing it the old way u would do the job all at same time as don't need ground to settle or conrete to go off

 

The problem with short streches is if the posts move a fraction (which they will) it makes ur wire look rubbish, far easier on longer pulls. Some times a top and bottom rail helps short streches like that

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A tip if its dry at the side of the hedge. Mark out post holes day before and dig a little hole at each one, enough to hold a litre or 2 of water. Fill hole with water. Refill if you think it needs it. I have made holes inpenetratable easy going the next day with this.

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