How to do this?

[michael larder]

I am a newly qualified tree surgeon but know ive still got alot to learn, today and the next 2 days i am processing 6 large poplars that have been felled. Im doing it on my own as the guy i work with is away. Now i learnt all about tension and compression cuts at college and have processed loads of small to medium sized trees before with no problems. The stem on these poplars are huge so have been using an husqvarna 395xp with a 28" bar. Got the saw trapped 3 times. I did what i normaly would do with the compression on the top, cut in a 3rd from the top and undercut two thirds,( it got trapped) after that i tried undercutting all the way through ( it got trapped) then tried boring in the middle cutting down through and out the bottom then back up ( it got trapped). Is there something im doing wrong or somethingi dont know when it comes to processing large trees?

 

Cheers

[AA Teccie (Paul)]

I am a newly qualified tree surgeon but know ive still got alot to learn, today and the next 2 days i am processing 6 large poplars that have been felled. Im doing it on my own as the guy i work with is away. Now i learnt all about tension and compression cuts at college and have processed loads of small to medium sized trees before with no problems. The stem on these poplars are huge so have been using an husqvarna 395xp with a 28" bar. Got the saw trapped 3 times. I did what i normaly would do with the compression on the top, cut in a 3rd from the top and undercut two thirds,( it got trapped) after that i tried undercutting all the way through ( it got trapped) then tried boring in the middle cutting down through and out the bottom then back up ( it got trapped). Is there something im doing wrong or somethingi dont know when it comes to processing large trees?

 

Cheers

 

Hi Michael,

 

IS the compression on top? Did you try cutting all the way through from the top? On large rings we often used to pop a plastic wedge on top to stop it closing and trapping.

 

To be honest there are many (most) far more current, and competent, than I who will be along to better advise shortly. Just one other thing though, wearing my H&S Manager's hat, is it safe to be working alone undertaking this operation, particularly as an inexperienced operative? (REMEMBER AFAG/FISA 301 says chainsaw operators should not normally work alone, and definitely not if remote working!)

 

This may effect your insurance if you come unstuck, i.e. get injured / harmed, whilst trying to free a jammed saw.

 

Please take care.

 

Cheers..

Paul

[michael larder]

Cheers paul. Yes compression is on the top, thats a good idea with the wedges and bet it works , will try that tomorrow . Yea i know what you mean about lone working but its either go to work and get paid or sit at home skint. I just try to be as safe as i can

Thanks for the advice

[michael larder]

Plus im not in a remote area there are fencers on site aswel

[bikewoo]

You could do a few cuts close on the comp side and cut twice from beneath. That way you can see when the log is moving and give you chance to remove your saw before it gets pinched. Also if its stuck both ends cut in two places, don't try and get separation with one cut. Practice will teach you best. Are the logs rolling a bit when you cut?

 

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[michael larder]

You could do a few cuts close on the comp side and cut twice from beneath. That way you can see when the log is moving and give you chance to remove your saw before it gets pinched. Also if its stuck both ends cut in two places, don't try and get separation with one cut. Practice will teach you best. Are the logs rolling a bit when you cut?

 

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So if i do say 4 cuts close on top about a third of the way in? And then 2 cuts close underneath? And yes , the piece i was cutting seemed to twist and thats when the saw was getting trapped

[codlasher]

The wedge is one of the best ways to help in this situation. A bore cut is often another useful method of X cutting. Bore cut from just below the centre line and when your saw droops out the bottom of this start again but in an upwards motion. If the butt is laid in dirt go really slow so not to tip the chain. sometimes it pays to stop and clear a little hole so you have a view of what is happening...

On the upwards part of the bore cut the worst place for a jam is right at the finish. So you can just leave a 1" piece and move on to the next and your previous cut will break on its own, else just make a small cut from the top. The wedge will again be useful here.

Stihl used to make little tiny plastic wedges for just this type of work they were no more than 2" in size. You don't want to be carrying round a load of felling wedges for this!

Don't be without a second saw and don't forget you are allowed to cut your own wedges too :-)

codlasher

[michael larder]

The wedge is one of the best ways to help in this situation. A bore cut is often another useful method of X cutting. Bore cut from just below the centre line and when your saw droops out the bottom of this start again but in an upwards motion. If the butt is laid in dirt go really slow so not to tip the chain. sometimes it pays to stop and clear a little hole so you have a view of what is happening...

On the upwards part of the bore cut the worst place for a jam is right at the finish. So you can just leave a 1" piece and move on to the next and your previous cut will break on its own, else just make a small cut from the top. The wedge will again be useful here.

Stihl used to make little tiny plastic wedges for just this type of work they were no more than 2" in size. You don't want to be carrying round a load of felling wedges for this!

Don't be without a second saw and don't forget you are allowed to cut your own wedges too :-)

codlasher

Thanks codlasher thats really good advice and you ar totally right. I tried the bore cut and it got stuck right at the end. And something you mentioned about clearing a space to see whats happening , the trees are coverd in ivy so couldnt see too good, lack of common sense on my part, will have a look for the stihl wedges you mentioned

 

Cheers

[Jonny69]

You can more or less forget tension and compression on big stems (not completely though), get a load of wedges, wide and narrow, I carry about 5 plastic and two high lift.

 

I normally try to crack the last inch or so off with the wedges if it's laying on the floor. Or have a deadish chain on another saw for the last little bit in case it gets pushed in the floor

[Joe Newton]

A useful tip I picked up for processing large timber is when you start a top cut, go it about half way, pull out, cut a little wedge from your top cut, and knock it in with the bar. DIY wedge to prevent a cut closing.

 

I'm sure someone can explain better than me.