What welder?

[codlasher]

Having been there with the nail/bolt/whatever in a 13Amp plug I just spent a little more time fitting heavier wires from the fuse board out to a waterproof 16Amp socket! I started with a similar set up and still have the welder (with the bolt in the plug) but this new machine is like a Rolls against a Cortina..... If anyone remembers those:001_tt2:

 

This enabled me to use the 16Amp extension lead all round my workshop, and outside, with the little welder. I needed this lead to get round my farm trailer and get the welder nearby to adjust the power needed as I am not quick and nimble anymore so like to get comfortable:001_tongue:

(This 16Amp lead also serves to power a jet washer so has several uses. The lead itself is wound onto an old hose reel so winds and un-winds nicely)

 

By all means use the above method, bolt,nail etc, but you will never get the most out of your machine! Being able to draw the amps needed for a good weld is important and why compromise a good machine with not letting is reach its potential?

13Amp wire is just not large enough in diameter and over any distance you will be surprised at the current drop.

 

As to the Q regarding the repair of the item shown in the picture, YES I'd be very happy welding that, as I said; 6mm no probs, just approach the work in a workman like fashion. Cleanliness helps with the metal shined up, the rods warm and dry, likewise the item to be worked. Once the metal is up to temperature you can reduce the amps needed to ensure a good weld without sag or undercutting. This is one of the reasons I like the welder near to me:001_smile: You'll get the feel when the weld is good and when it is very good the flux will start lifting of its own accord too.

A bit of anti-splatter spray often helps with the 'professional' look too. Oh and a good instantly darkening mask. Don't forget a leather glove on the hand steadying the rod too.....this helps

 

Oh and be very aware of your fire precautions, both personal......No synthetic clothes, particularly the combination of rigger boots and nylon socks. Dirty diesel covered nylon overalls/synthetic jumper. Cr*p under your workbench and petrol cans nearby. I have a rule that has saved my twice in 30something years; A half hour fire rule. Do something in the work-shop for half an hour AFTER finishing any welding....cleaning, fiddling or just thinking. You may be very surprised one day and put out a smouldering rag you missed under the bench....The leaky acetylene bottle with a little black fire round its neck:blushing:

codlasher

Edited December 9, 2013 by codlasher
Addendum

[Peter]

[ATTACH]142570[/ATTACH]

Jib on the winch is an example of what I need to weld. The welder in the link at the top of the page be capable? It is on my price range at they are only a few miles away.

 

Plenty. Make sure you prep the weld properly, nice clean metal, grind the edges back if you welding thick material and make several runs.

 

Does make me laugh when people recommend stick welders because they will "burn through all the dirt and rust". There must be a welding forum somewhere with advice to buy semi-chisel chain as it will cut right though all the dirt at the bottom of trees.

[MattyF]

It's all about the prep pete I know, I recon I will go with that one.. My only worry is having machines like chippers that constantly broke there welds because I needed a thicker more capable finish and not need re welding every 2 months should I go for an arc.

[predator]

Plenty. Make sure you prep the weld properly, nice clean metal, grind the edges back if you welding thick material and make several runs.

 

Does make me laugh when people recommend stick welders because they will "burn through all the dirt and rust". There must be a welding forum somewhere with advice to buy semi-chisel chain as it will cut right though all the dirt at the bottom of trees.

 

lol theres me thinking the same thing but i use the stick welder to get rid of the kack then grindback espesh if its been galvanised also was told to go back over a run of weld whilst its hot as in forward and inch back n inch as iam only on single phase myself so just trying to get the best i,ve got to work with but then again the inverter welders sound like the re invention of the wheel all positive answers so invertor seems the way to go

[Canal Navvy]

I use a 6 inch nail cut down

 

Swapping the fuseholder pin for a neutral pin from a spare plug works even better

[2stroke-ady]

Swapping the fuseholder pin for a neutral pin from a spare plug works even better

 

Nice one! never thought of that!

[difflock]

The weld failure in a chipper is most likely due to vibration induced metal fatigue.

Which I know nowt about.

Cept probably about thermal stresses getting induced and trapped, or choice of rod and welding techique, pre-heating etc.

Or could simply be too much welding causing excess heat, which is tempering the steel.

But I dont know.

Consult v12Cat (was it?) on the Britishfarming forum.

There were some very clearly explained absolutely informative posts.

Though an absolute wealth of very very useful knowledgable posts were lost when the site was hacked.

[treequip]

It's all about the prep pete I know, I recon I will go with that one.. My only worry is having machines like chippers that constantly broke there welds because I needed a thicker more capable finish and not need re welding every 2 months should I go for an arc.

 

Don't dismiss MIG over MMA for that reason. I have a single phase MIG that will take 1.5mm wire and competently weld 10mm in a single pass.

 

If you have to re do the weld every 2 months you didn't do it right in the first place

[aspenarb]

Don't dismiss MIG over MMA for that reason. I have a single phase MIG that will take 1.5mm wire and competently weld 10mm in a single pass.

 

If you have to re do the weld every 2 months you didn't do it right in the first place

 

 

+1. For your budget a decent second hand quality mig like arctec or esab would serve you better than a cheap chinky set. These micky mouse import things have no duty cycle and you will spend more time waiting for the thermal overload to click back in than welding. Mig is ok in a draft free workshop environment so if you need to be in the middle of a field get a stick welder/inverter . Also worth pointing out is some of these inverters are not suitable for use with a generator so if you need to use it mobile get one that is. Lastly is the supply plug, junk the three pin 13 amp plugs and wire in a proper 16 amp socket off the mains, you wont believe the difference it makes to the weld.

 

Bob

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=142710&stc=1&d=1386664223

[difflock]

see att photos

The weight and length of wire before and after the plug, of whatever type, 13A/16A, is as important

A good quality MK or equivalent 13 Amp is not bad.

Main difference with the 16Amp round blue type

is NO fuse

Until the Consumer unit.

PS

Hyd fitting also welded

Edited December 10, 2013 by difflock