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MS200T - Aspen running problems!


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It ain't aspen pal, more like what went through before. I have been using aspen for 3 years in ms 200 t and all my saw without issue. Well except the 560 which is just crap anyway.

 

 

Sent from Hodge's eye phone using the new fancy Arbtalk Mobile App:)

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I am new to stripping carbs and associated parts! Is the carb boot the rubber tunnel behind the carb with the metal ring on it?

Where do i find the impulse line mate? I normally just send saws into a shop and let them do it, but as i am out in Sweden, due to their highly overpriced parts and labour in the saw shops, i need to figure out how to sort everything out myself now, especially using Aspen, as i can see this knowledge is gonna be invaluable!! Cheers for your patience! Your help is much appreciated!

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I am new to stripping carbs and associated parts! Is the carb boot the rubber tunnel behind the carb with the metal ring on it?

Where do i find the impulse line mate? I normally just send saws into a shop and let them do it, but as i am out in Sweden, due to their highly overpriced parts and labour in the saw shops, i need to figure out how to sort everything out myself now, especially using Aspen, as i can see this knowledge is gonna be invaluable!! Cheers for your patience! Your help is much appreciated!

 

Yes the boot is the bit you mean.

 

The impulse is in the same area. Take handle off and its the small pipe from under handle, runs alongside the boot and into the crank case. Once you lift the handle off its easy.

 

To lift handle off, remove the three screws, one front, one rear, and one front bottom of saw one pull start assembly side. Remove carb, and two wires at front of handle. When lifting hadle the boot will pull out from handle. This is held into cylinder with a plastic plate, lift this off and boot will slide off. Make a note of how the plastic plate was fitted for reassembly.

 

Inspect boot for cracks and same with impulse. It's a lot easier with a pressure testing kit.

 

The boot can also become lose fitting and leak around where it joins the cylinder. So on reassembly a bit of grease spread around the inside can seal this up nicely.

 

If you get any more stuck let me know,

 

P.s there is no need to strip the handle assembly down to remove it. It's held on by three bolts.

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Thank you very much for the precise instructions!! Do you happen to know how much roughly these Carb boots, Impulse lines and the rubber O ring within the carb are? Not a lot i'm guessing... If they are cheap enough i might just replace the lot to eliminate them!

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I have responded to your PM and have said what I think the issues may be. A 2010 saw is a later model and unless the saw is a high hours one, the issue probably is the carb.

 

Try another one on your saw, it is a quick way of finding out what the issue is.

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I have responded to your PM and have said what I think the issues may be. A 2010 saw is a later model and unless the saw is a high hours one, the issue probably is the carb.

 

Try another one on your saw, it is a quick way of finding out what the issue is.

 

Not going to share with the rest of the class then.......:lol::001_tongue:

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Sorry, i am a bit late on this one due to 3 pints of Rattler at tea time and a touch too much sun:biggrin:

 

To start with, MS200's are particularly fickle saws no matter what fuel they are run, so best to be open minded and not blame the Aspen.

 

As PMH says, if it is fuel related, its not the fault of the Aspen but of the petrol that has been used previously.

Petrol contains solvents which wash out the chemicals added to the fuel lines and diaphragms in order to keep them supple, but to some extent these same solvents take over and soften the material whilst very slowly destroying it.

When we remove the solvents these materials dry out and harden or crack. This happens in dry stored machines and can also sometimes happen when Aspen is used as it contains no solvents. (there is often no problem at all)

 

If the problem on this saw is due to the use of Aspen then the saw will still be in perfect mechanical order and replacement of the fuel pick up hose, carb diaphragms and accelerator pump seal will fix it. If then run solely on Aspen there will be no more issues, just as in a saw run on Aspen from new.

 

However, if the problem is coincidental to the use of Aspen it may be more serious and costly to repair. As others have said, common faults are the inlet manifold and impulse hose,as well as a worn accelerator pump, but any failure in these areas is nothing to do with the use of Aspen.

 

Neither will the more serious issues of crankcase leakage through physical damage or worn seals.

 

A good techie will be able to diagnose the problem easily.

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Not going to share with the rest of the class then.......:lol::001_tongue:

 

Just the normal carb fix issues Rich - the OP PMed me and I obliged as normal.

 

Last guy to ask me that question was Megatron:blushing::001_rolleyes::lol:

 

The outcome is he is going to fit a mates carb and if it resolves the issues, will purcahse and fit a new carb.

 

Fixing these carbs is a war of attrition and I aint giving in:thumbup:

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