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Field repairs


Dean Lofthouse
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On one job (Last two weeks) I've had the digger overheat due to a bust hose, land rover clutch go due to bust selector fork thingy, fin break on the TW, and today the belt driving the hydraulic pump let go on the grinder disabling it.

The LR had to go to the garage the rest I'll do myself

Not worth buying any lottery tickets!

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Scary, I had almost the same thing last month five days before the MOT. Pulled up put full oposite lock on to reverse the trailer in, thought the steering felt light, went to move off and steered the oposite direction (ie, wheels hadn't turned at all). The inside of the steering box had dropped out! Drop arm was still attached at the box end and ball joint end. I was all right as I was stopped turning on a private track, but scary to think what could have happened if it had been on the main road, especially as I had the wee one with me. Again, no external signs of wear, no excesive play in the box, no leaks, no reason to suspect iminent and sudden failure. :confused1:

 

Glad you're OK and got it fixed easily. (mine wasn't quite as quick and easy fix as the whole box had to come out).

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You were lucky there mate, I bought my old hi cap as cat C salvage due to the drop arm ball joint doing exactly the same, but had done it at speed, when I got it the cab roof was on the headrests and the front bulkhead was bent as it had flipped when the steering went :001_cool:

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The worry I think is if you use the very cheap replacement stuff

 

You normally have three prices as I did with the drop arm I bought.

 

£22 buys a really cheapo non original

£56 bought me a non original but OEM spec

£98 would buy a landrover original

 

I always try to buy OEM spec parts especially ball joints

Edited by Dean Lofthouse
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