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Spark arrestor ????


Doyleyburger
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Hey guys,

 

I have recently been handed down a husqvarna 141 saw. Nice little saw but I was using it yesterday and after around 30 mins of using, it decided to stop idling and cut out. I can get the saw started but as soon as I stop revving the saw cuts out. The husky does need a general service and I have just ordered a servicing kit. I have been advised that the problem could lie with the spark arrestor screen. Could this be the problem ???

Advise please

I will take out a and clean the screen anyway

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It depends if you have a spark arrestor fitted, it can cause issues with the saw bogging down and that would be the first sign of issues.

 

It is easy to see if you have an arestor and remove it, with the amount of rain we have in the UK it generally isn't needed and is for more arrid conditions.

 

Few questions, when the saw idles, does it die immediately or do the revs falter and tail off? Have you tried increasing the idle speed a little to bring them up so it doesn't die?

 

It could be in need of a simple carb tune and adjusting this and the idle speed will resolve your issues and is the most likely fix!

 

Have you made sure the air filter is clean and the plug looks clean - if it is black and oily, this could be a sign that the saw is running rich or the spark arrestor, if fitted, is blocked.

 

Let us know how you get on

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Spud, you're an awesome help. The screen isn't there anyway so the previous owner has more than likely taken it out.

The saw dies off pretty much immediately after releasing off the trigger.

I have ordered new filters and spark plug, they should be here this week.

I will try a tune up, you're probably right and is most likely the most simple explanation.

One thing I did see upon breaking the saw down is that the piston cylinder looks a little scored.

I will try the tune up and let you know

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Spud, you're an awesome help. The screen isn't there anyway so the previous owner has more than likely taken it out.

The saw dies off pretty much immediately after releasing off the trigger.

I have ordered new filters and spark plug, they should be here this week.

I will try a tune up, you're probably right and is most likely the most simple explanation.

One thing I did see upon breaking the saw down is that the piston cylinder looks a little scored.

I will try the tune up and let you know

 

If the piston is scored (Lots of photos on my whats on your bench thread) then this will lower compression and the idle will play about if you are lucky enough to get it started.

 

The saw may also be a bitch to start when hot!

 

If the piston is scored, the rebuild will be an interesting project as the engine is a clam type construction and not the easiset of machines to work on!

 

Good luck with it and don't forget to investigate the route cause of failure - old fuel is common and the saw running lean is another!

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A very common problem on the 141 is that the pulse tube splits open. When the split is small it is sufficient to lose the pulse at idle speed, thus loosing the fuel pump, but may be able to maintain a pulse as crank speed increases.

 

Its easy to check, although the split is often out of sight and may not be seen without removing the carb and carb mounting plate which is easy enough to do.

 

Probably worth checking first.

P1000784.jpg.35e6cd5af3cce6eb39ffecf8d9f0a76d.jpg

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A very common problem on the 141 is that the pulse tube splits open. When the split is small it is sufficient to lose the pulse at idle speed, thus loosing the fuel pump, but may be able to maintain a pulse as crank speed increases.

 

Its easy to check, although the split is often out of sight and may not be seen without removing the carb and carb mounting plate which is easy enough to do.

 

Probably worth checking first.

[ATTACH]109920[/ATTACH]

 

Took the carb and carb plate off and can't seem to find that pulse tube at all.

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Took the carb and carb plate off and can't seem to find that pulse tube at all.

 

From the IPL it looks like the carb mounts on to a plastic plate that sits between the cylinder and air box. on the lower part of this plate on the cylinder side, there should be a tube type of protrusion that then pushes on to the cylinder using this green rubber connector.

 

The green rubber part sits between the cylinder and the plastic part - it may be pushed in to the cylinder or on the plastic barrier!

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