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Firewood - water content


sylvestris stew
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I was speaking to a lad today that sells woodburning stoves he used to also sell a lot of firewood, he was asking what moisture content I was burning my wood at [not sure on correct terminology]

 

Anyway , I just burn wood when I think it's dry, does anyone out there check moisture content and how.

 

Years ago we used to take moisture readings , for fire danger ratings and also abroad when doing prescribed burning.

 

I know it makes a big difference in how it burns , above 30% bakes the wood rather than burns it [fact of the day:thumbup1:]

 

I think the answers may start getting technical here:hmmmm2:

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The answers may get technical, yes, but you're far from the only one interested I'm sure. There was a recent thread about moisture meters I think (I'd have found it for you if I was on the ball!) So come on experts (i.e. not me) please - is the answer '15%' or 'whatever feels good in your hand'?! (Steady tiger)

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I'll sell when the water content is below 30%. In practice however it is usually 25% or lower now.

 

Also I don't believe people who say it takes two years to season wood. Maybe in the round it does but I try and split as soon possible after the wood enters the yard. Doing this I have got the moisture content of Sycamore from off the scale on the meter 50%+ to 25% in less than 3 months. At this point it burns well. All my firewood at present is split and seasoned it the open. I think it may season slightly quicker if it was under a roof of some description. I take my readings for moisture by splitting a piece of seasoned wood and taking readings along its length as it does vary alot. You can test on the end and it may be 20% but in middle it could still be way over a suitable value.

 

These are just my thoughts anyhow.

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Cheers guys

 

You're right about the splitting, drys better also burns better, especially conifer as in the round they have a natural "fire barrier" [too early to remember the correct term]

I would think those chipping for fuel will take readings before chipping.

It will also do away with customers claiming that you've sold them "wet" wood

There's nothing worse than a stick "hissing" on the fire

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Also I don't believe people who say it takes two years to season wood. Maybe in the round it does but I try and split as soon possible after the wood enters the yard.

 

All my wood is seasoned for two years minimum, believe it or not. I would never have the time,patience or energy to split green wood as soon as it enters the yard, and besides it would be stolen if split. Moisture meters :confused1: why bother, just store outside for two years and you,ll have dry wood.

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All my wood is seasoned for two years minimum, believe it or not. I would never have the time,patience or energy to split green wood as soon as it enters the yard, and besides it would be stolen if split. Moisture meters :confused1: why bother, just store outside for two years and you,ll have dry wood.

 

 

The reason I split and store the way i do is I want a quick return. In the round or in rings it can take two years or more to season wood. On the thefy point I can see where you are coming from. I've found though for some reason people round me like to steal the freshly cut logs still in the round rather than split stuff. I don't bag anything until sale so as to make it a bit harder for theiving. They also have a liking for diesel and coal as opposed to wood.

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If I remember correctly wood burnt at 30% moisture will only give off around 50% of the heat of wood burnt at 20% moisture - so you need twice as much wood to keep warm!

 

I got a good qualty moisture meter bought me for Christmas and it has been a bit of a surprise. Firewood that feels wet is wet but firewood that feels ok but perhaps a bit cold and damp seems to be about 30-35% and wood that feels really dry is still only measuring 20% but quickly drops to 15% if kept by the fire for a few days.

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