Coopering advice needed

[likeitorlumpit]

That is big- I assume the 10ft is to allow a floor which would take out some of the height.

[difflock]

Off the top of my head.

Pull it together with rachett straps, the "stretch" could be useful long term, or threaded rod of suitable dia welded to the end of a flat strap, and

cut bevels in situ with a chainsaw inserted in the square cut joint after first strapping together round a former.

Bound to be fool proof if it worked, need to skip where strapped, insert kerf sized spacers, put on extra straps where spacers inserted, remove first straps and finish joints with chain saw.

then remove spacers and pull together to a fractionally smaller diameter.

Must try that this weekend:biggrin:

I am generally better at having bright ideas than actually executing them:blushing:

[splinters]

That is big- I assume the 10ft is to allow a floor which would take out some of the height.

 

got it in one. if the roof hight is 7ft in the middle this gives a floor space 9ft wide. the floor would be 3ft up in the air giving plenty o space for fire wood storage underneath.

 

my plan is to make it 12 ft long 9 ft inside 3 ft covered veranda

[agg221]

I think the approach you're proposing will work fine so long as:

 

1. You have an easy way to create the bevels.

2. Your timber supply has minimal knots.

3. You are prepared to apply something to seal the inevitable gaps.

 

Sawn timber will come out with variation in thickness, sawn bevels will also wander around - I'd expact gaps of up to a millimetre or two. I would suggest the ideal would be to mill over thickness, then fully season and run through a thicknesser, finally cutting the bevels with a spindle moulder if you can get at one, router if you can't. This will give you the accuracy and mean the timber will swell rather than shrink.

 

I'd be inclined to use something to stop the seams, since it won't be permanently wet on one side. Something tar based would be my preference - I don't like setting, rubber based products as they're a nightmare to get out again once they break down. Jeffrey's marine glue is a really good bet - it self heals any cracks in summer when it softens and can be 'repaired' by warming with a soldering iron. You want to run sealants down into the cracks, so you'd need to make up the vat, tip it on its side and then apply at the top, rolling it round to bring each seam uppermost in turn.

 

Difflock's bright idea does work for ensuring a tight fit. I've always known it as kerfing, and a handsaw is pretty quick (you're not creating a full cut) and much less wasteful. You want the parts locked in place, rather being pushed together, otherwise it pinches very fast.

 

Alec

[splinters]

cheers guys

 

i think we are all thinking along the same lines. i have redone my maths and noticed i got my maths wrong i am going to use 90 4inch ( inner side) boards with a 92 degree sides.

 

i have also been speeking to a slovacian friend whos father works in a log cabin production workshop in slovacia they can produce any thing i want out of slow grown timber and it is rather cheep. a 3 bed room holiday cabin kit is only about 10,000 euros so iv got him looking into getting me a price.

 

will keep you all posted.

[difflock]

Splinters,

I could be interested as well as Senior Managment is in the notion of a "log cabin", certainly with known contacts on the ground in Slovakia, it should be possible to arrange import at sensible prices and goodwill all round if one eliminates the several layers of salesmen who all need a cut or a good living:lol:

cheers

marcus

[splinters]

Thomas (My Slovac mate) has spent alot of money on the legal / planning side of importing them and has several orders for them once he has it sorted. so that that idea is already in hand. think hes gonna make a lot o money.