Tree Propagation Methods help please

dryadlad · November 5, 2007

Just started my second year doing the CHE arb been set an paper on tree propagation methods anyone know any good links ..

dryadlad · November 8, 2007

yea it is really that interesting

Steve Bullman · November 8, 2007

haha!

Dagmar · November 9, 2007

Grafting -

Basic Angle Graft.

Whip and Tongue Graft

Side Veneer Graft

Grafting is probably the most difficult form of propagation to master. Grafting is the attaching of living tissue from one plant onto another. Sounds very mystical and magical, but is fairly easy after some practice. Grafting is very common in woody plants such as trees and shrubs, but is also popular with cactus. It gives the gardener more options. For example, grafting is the only way you could have five different fruits growing on the same tree. Another example of grafting are weeping and dwarf trees like, Weeping Crabapples/Cherries and Dwf. Spruce. I once had a neighbor who grew roses in his homeland ( Iraq) with six different colored blossoms on one plant.

The main goal of grafting is to match the layers of cambium (xylem and phloem) tissue from each plant. The cambium layer is a thin layer of tissue just under the bark that transports water and nutrients. The stem of the parent plant is called the rootstock and the stem you are joining to it is called the scion. When the scion and rootstock are joined they form a calloused area where some of the cambium tissue will bridge and complete the flow of nutrients and water. When making cuts be sure to make a clean sharp cut and join. Be sure to choose scions that have leaf buds and are 1/4" at cut end. Use last years growth for evergreens and for deciduous plants use a section in the middle of the branch. It is better to graft plants while they are dormant and do not have a leaf mass that will transpire water quicker.

For deciduous plants take scions in early or late winter. Do not use frozen wood. Collect the cuttings and put in a plastic bag with damp peat moss ( spagnum moss is better because it has a natural fungicide) and place in your refrigerator (40� f) for a few weeks. Be sure the exposed ends are semi-covered with peat to prevent drying. The same instructions follow for grafting cactus, however they two pieces should be attached immediately following the cut.

The side veneer graft is good for evergreens and dwarf conifers. Because these plants are slow growing, soil warmth is the key. Cool air temperatures will inhibit leaf growth and reduce transpiration, while warm soil will promote root growth for healing the callous. Use this method in late winter. Make a 2-3" cut down the length of the rootstock and then a second cut a the bottom of the first so that the severed piece is removed. Make an angled cut on the scion and then a second cut down the length of the scion. Fit the the two pieces together and tape together. Mist plant occasionally to moisten callous and keep soil on the dry side, water lightly but frequently.

Whip and Tongue grafts should be self-explanitory from the pictures or photographs - plenty available. This is a difficult graft to master, but is a very reliable method because it provides a greater area of cambium interaction. Use this method for fruit and ornamental trees. Best done in the spring before buds start to break. Remove scions from fridge and soak in water for an hour or so before making the tongue cut and then piece together and tape.

For fruit trees

Here's a wiki link to fruit tree propagation methods, which is a fair overview and does give a lot of other links and sources of info if you want to take it further.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruit_tree_propagation

This link is for arid zone trees and may be of interest:http://www.aridzonetrees.com/AZTimes%20Horticultural/Seed%20and%20Vegetative%20Propagation%20update%202006.htm