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small landy problem!!


Matthew Storrs
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recently my 300 tdi engine has been cutting out as iv been going along (once on the dualcarriageway which was interesting) then when I try to restart it it turns over but doesn't fire, after a time it will suddenly fire back to life as if nothing happened- anyone else experianced this or an idea of what it might be, I can't find any loose conections but it feels like the fuel supply cuts out momentarily or something:confused1:

 

HI DRS hows land rover now is it fixed now thanks jon :thumbup:

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Disconnect BOTH battery terminals

 

IGN ON all the time.

 

Measure between white wire tag and RED + Battery LEAD terminal, not the battery + post.

 

It may help if I say that on a RESISTANCE scale, your meter acts like a tiny BATTERY, and sends a very small voltage out of one of its test leads

- usually the red one goes positive. Let's say you clamp this red lead to the detached RED battery-cable terminal. There OUGHT to be a clear LOW RESISTANCE connection all the way to the white lead tag IF the IGN is ON. This path goes through the IGN switch or a relay.

 

IF, BUT ONLY IF, a continous circuit exists, some of that voltage will reach the other end of the test which means the tag on the white wire to the solenoid will have some voltage on it. You now connect your black test lead to that tag, and the meter can work out the RESISTANCE because it now knows what the voltage drop is in the "circuit". It's OHMS LAW at its best.

 

V = I times R .............. or to put it another way ...... Volts = Amps times Resistance.

 

R = V divided by Amps ............. or to put it another way ...... Resistance = Volts divided by Amps.

 

If you were careful, and if you have a good meter (!!!) you could try to measure the CURRENT the white tag can pass when the battery is connected again and the IGN key is ON. It ought to be HEAPS of amps, and it SHOULD send your 10-amp meter off the scale. You will probably have a separate terminal for the RED lead of the meter to read the 10 amp scale, AND set the knob. Test this only for an INSTANT! Else you may fry your meter and blow a fuse. But, as we expect now, if there is no apparent reading, set your meter to current 200m (move the red lead back to normal place first) that's 200 milli-amps, one fifth of an amp max. Test again. You will probably get a low reading.

 

I test you can carry out to find out if it is ignition or solenoid at fault. Depends on how mechanically minded you are.

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No I call telling some not to put 12 volts across a solenoid simple. If he puts the wrong wire on he will most certainly blow the wiring causing fire etc plus blown fuses.

 

No way I'm getting the blame for that train wreck?

 

Plus it's simple for me I can understand it with ease. It's the correct way to test the system.

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The problem is intermittent, it can show ok when tested that way, the only way your test will work is if you then go round jiggling all the connections and wires.

 

He needs to carry out a simple test with the engine running and wiring system loaded as it would be when the fault occurs

 

Not slating you, just trying to simplify things

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I have tested the solenoid 12v lead which is a true reading, the connection wasn't entirely convincing (might just be that) however I just need it to cut out now so i can retest it see if it still reads 12v, have also bled the system and checked all the fuel lines, can't see any obvious faults. can't really do a lot more untill it cuts out again but im hoping it was the solenoid connection. I have a spare wire ready if i need to bypass the original solenoid lead.

Cheers for all the help, at least I feel I know the system better now if it cuts out again.:thumbup1:

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