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Best Chainsaw Sharpener


Tomatin Firewood
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the blue disk doesn't burr the chain so much and puts less heat into it gives a much better sharpen get mine from clarkes forestry to fit oregan grinder really is better

 

the blue one from clarke does not fit my oregon mini grinder, i got one last year but it was too big, it was for a larger auto grinder. oregon do a grinding wheel dressing stone for touching up the grinding wheel

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Thanks everyone for all your replies!

 

I have already done chainsaw course so have a reasonable idea about sharpening with file and am always looking to improve.

 

As quite a few of you have said when you get a length of wood full of nails, it is is a bitch to restore chain afterwards. For some reason I always seem to get the bit of wood with nails right after I have done a sharpen!

 

I will continue to use my files but will have a look for Oregon grinder, it sounds like the best bit of kit.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the advice, really useful.

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  • 5 years later...
Odd first contribution, are associated with the site you linked to?

Noooooo, surely not?[emoji3]

 

From that link: [emoji3] [emoji3] [emoji3]

"Chainsaws are great for getting all types of cutting done, whether it is cutting through trees or metal. However, depending on how to use them, they can be worn down very easily and the blades will need to be sharpened quite regularly.*"

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Noooooo, surely not?[emoji3]

 

From that link: [emoji3] [emoji3] [emoji3]

"Chainsaws are great for getting all types of cutting done, whether it is cutting through trees or metal. However, depending on how to use them, they can be worn down very easily and the blades will need to be sharpened quite regularly.*"

 

Mmmm . says it all innit ?:001_smile:

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Items in Gloster Tooling store on eBay !

 

I use these in a dremmel fitted with a sharpening angle guide, a 240v in the workshop asnd a 12v with a power pack for when I'm out and a Granberg also with diamond rotary files for the milling chains.

 

A rotary FILE is still a file and these leave a superb finish and you'd need to be extremely heavy handed to cause any blueing of the teeth.

 

The small burr that can form on the top edge of the tooth also happens when hand filing and traditionally would simply be knocked off with the wooden handle of the file once the tooth had been sharpened.

 

Most of the firewood I cut {for myself} is clean, but I can totally imagine the frustration of trying to make a living cutting firewood with stuff that's been dragged out of a wood with the bark full of mud and stones, for that reason most of the wood I mill whether by bandsaw or chainsaw gets the bark removed first, not a nice job and I would imagine totally impractical for the OP. Cheers.

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I use a dremel for the majority of my sharpening, also keep looking at the clarke bench mounted sharpener in machine mart.

 

I also use a dremel, a cordless one and diamond bits as the diameter remains the same.

A couple of local professionals mocked the idea but they both have them now, the diamond bits give an edge much finer than a file therefore lasts longer.

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I also use a dremel, a cordless one and diamond bits as the diameter remains the same.

A couple of local professionals mocked the idea but they both have them now, the diamond bits give an edge much finer than a file therefore lasts longer.

 

Got a picture? Do you use it freehand or with a clamp?

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