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Best Chainsaw Sharpener


Tomatin Firewood
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Been here before, it is an old tale, the lads out in the trees all day swear by their files, the techs behind a bench all day swear by their grinders.

 

The truth - IMO, small saws like the MS200T with small cutters are easy to sharpen by hand and it takes no time at all - same can be said for most chains that have just gone a little dull!

 

When you get to 24"+ with full chisel and the saw has hit the dirt or a nail etc, a grinder is a Godsend as it will bring each cutter back in to spec again. You can't grind out in the field unless the grinder is battery operated but you do get a good even finish when one is used correctly - I am not saying this can't be achieved by using a file but I find it easier to take 1mm off a large number of buggered cutters with a grinder!

 

Those that say the grinder will blue the cutter or produce an unwanted grinding flash are not using the tool correctly. I use a relatively cheap grinder but have a few techniques that ensure the cutter doesn't get overly hot and stops the thin metal flash forming on the cut.

 

Like most tools - get to know how to use them correctly and they will reward you.

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Been here before, it is an old tale, the lads out in the trees all day swear by their files, the techs behind a bench all day swear by their grinders.

 

The truth - IMO, small saws like the MS200T with small cutters are easy to sharpen by hand and it takes no time at all - same can be said for most chains that have just gone a little dull!

 

When you get to 24"+ with full chisel and the saw has hit the dirt or a nail etc, a grinder is a Godsend as it will bring each cutter back in to spec again. You can't grind out in the field unless the grinder is battery operated but you do get a good even finish when one is used correctly - I am not saying this can't be achieved by using a file but I find it easier to take 1mm off a large number of buggered cutters with a grinder!

 

Those that say the grinder will blue the cutter or produce an unwanted grinding flash are not using the tool correctly. I use a relatively cheap grinder but have a few techniques that ensure the cutter doesn't get overly hot and stops the thin metal flash forming on the cut.

 

Like most tools - get to know how to use them correctly and they will reward you.

 

Please give me a few pointers on how to stop the metal flash burr from building up when taking a fair amount off.

 

I try to file only a bit at a time so am bringing the wheel up and down a lot to stop blueing, but it's hard!

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Please give me a few pointers on how to stop the metal flash burr from building up when taking a fair amount off.

 

I try to file only a bit at a time so am bringing the wheel up and down a lot to stop blueing, but it's hard!

 

Well you've got the first one - pulse the grinder on the cutter rather than use a single prolonged grind, this stops the cutter overheating.

 

The second pointer is to break the glaze that inevitably forms on the grinding wheel. To do this you need a diamond file and just brush it over the grinding wheel - you will be impressed with the increase in sparks produced after doing this.

 

Those two simple things will make a grinder work 1000 times better:thumbup:

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I got an oregon pro (think its labeled as a carelton) and its one of the best investments i have made, i learnt to file properly when training in forestry woodland as a subbie, i get them like a razor (even if i say so myself) i take huge satisfaction from it when felling a large oak or something similiar, feeling each tooth working evenly, cutting straight, even to the point i keep an eye on the sawdust all the way through to see how the chain is performing, my logic is....the chain is a consumable, its my responsibility to keep it tip top for performance and to last as long as possible for profitability, it is an art to sharpen one by hand and get it perfect.

 

I thought no grinder would ever replace my files, and it has not, but.....it certainly has its place and i would not be without one now, in the evening i often have 4+ chains that have been grounded, hit flint inside the timber (clearing windblowns) and a lot of the time i work on hedgrow trees that have barbed wire, staples, nails, gate hinges and so on and on and on, the grinder is a godsend to bring damaged chains back to life, i have saved countless chains that were damaged badly (i keep them for trees i know have wire etc in) it is quicker to put a fresh chain on than try and file it up again on site, i also think it works out cheaper in the long run.

 

I run three bars at 25" one at 30" and two 48", as you would imagine, a lot of sharpening when we are cutting flat out, yes we still touch up by hand when required, but any major sharpening gets left till evening or rainy days.

 

As said, it is not easy to do properly with a grinder, god knows i wrecked a few chains when i started, but now i got it and most people are unable to tell the difference between that and a hand sharpened one (i can still tell)

 

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Rob.

Edited by ashman
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I got an oregon pro (think its labeled as a carelton) and its one of the best investments i have made, i learnt to file properly when training in forestry woodland as a subbie, i get them like a razor (even if i say so myself) i take huge satisfaction from it when felling a large oak or something similiar, feeling each tooth working evenly, cutting straight, even to the point i keep an eye on the sawdust all the way through to see how the chain is performing, my logic is....the chain is a consumable, its my responsibility to keep it tip top for performance and to last as long as possible for profitability, it is an art to sharpen one by hand and get it perfect.

 

I thought no grinder would ever replace my files, and it has not, but.....it certainly has its place and i would not be without one now, in the evening i often have 4+ chains that have been grounded, hit flint inside the timber (clearing windblowns) and a lot of the time i work on hedgrow trees that have barbed wire, staples, nails, gate hinges and so on and on and on, the grinder is a godsend to bring damaged chains back to life, i have saved countless chains that were damaged badly (i keep them for trees i know have wire etc in) it is quicker to put a fresh chain on than try and file it up again on site, i also think it works out cheaper in the long run.

 

I run three bars at 25" one at 30" and two 48", as you would imagine, a lot of sharpening when we are cutting flat out, yes we still touch up by hand when required, but any major sharpening gets left till evening or rainy days.

 

As said, it is not easy to do properly with a grinder, god knows i wrecked a few chains when i started, but now i got it and most people are unable to tell the difference between that and a hand sharpened one (i can still tell)

 

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Rob.

 

Exactly my view - long knackered chains = grinder, small Picco chains = file!

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I bought an electric one a few months ago, cant remember the make but was about £80. The best thing i have bought. i have 2 chains and keep swapping them when one is getting blunt and sharpen the other one when the geni is on and im waiting for the kettle to boil! Takes 2 minutes and they cut like new when done properly

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