660 air filter

[canoehead]

alright, so its not strictly the air filter, however, on the inside of the air filter cover are two openings for tiny mesh screens, one at the top, and another at the bottom. how much difference does it make if one of them is missing? are they both the same part no.? i only mention this as i'm milling at the moment, and am having to remove the air filter to clean it quite frequently. anyone?

[mendiplogs]

HI MATE the two opening are for the summer and winter setting thats whats on mine thanks jon

[spudulike]

I have just cleaned and repaired an 066 - from memory the air box back plate gives pre filtration to the main spherical air filter. If you are milling and this is mising then you are probably letting in a fair bit of dust/chippings in to the air box.

 

A fellow member agg221 (I think the last bit is right) uses this saw for milling - I am sure he can offer advice.

 

I would either fit a spare or adhere some washable filter material to the plate to repair it.

 

Keep an eye on the top end revs of the saw - running without this filter may make a bit of difference in weakening the mixture.

[agg221]

A fellow member agg221 (I think the last bit is right) uses this saw for milling - I am sure he can offer advice.

 

As per Spudulike really. If you Google "ms660 parts list" you'll get the .pdf file from this site as the top item - you need p.44 to see the parts options.

 

Mine is a Magnum, so the filter is slightly different (the HD one) but the main principle is the same - milling you're particularly likely to make fine dust, and because of the horizontal position of the saw partway down a log you pull it straight back in the direction of the air inlet, hence it clogs up frequently. This is a better thing than not having a filter, which would mean dragging said dust through the inlet port. A hole in the filter will provide a path of less resistance, so tend to preferentially drag air through, hence the intake of dust will be greater than its proportional area.

 

To see if you have any damage, pull the exhaust and crank over so the piston is down. Dragging in dust causes wear on the inlet side, just below the inlet.

 

If you're getting frequent filter clogging, is your wood very dry? If not, and you're not bogging down, and your chain is -really- sharp, consider taking the rakers down a bit as it will give you less dust and more chips.

 

Alec

[canoehead]

sweet. thanks for the replies. i looked at the parts pdf before posting, that's why i was wondering. as it only shows one slide (tiny mesh screen) which fits on the cover. so are you supposed to alternate it from the base to the top depending upon the season? which is which?

i try and sharpen chains almost daily, they're not bogging down, and are pretty scary sharp, so will try changing the rakers. so how much is a bit in dropping the height of the rakers? is it incremental? a you'll have to experiment kind of thing? mostly milling green maritime pine atm, some seasoned walnut and chestnut.

was running a 575xp couple of years ago, doing the same thing, and have to say the stihl doesn't clog anywhere near as much, so i ought to be happy, and stop whining.

[agg221]

Not sure on the mesh filter, sorry mine hasn't got this. Try finding a user's manual?

 

Sharpening is more like once a tank than once a day. Not heavy filing, just a light touch-up. The depth of the rakers is a bit experimental, and will vary by hardness, dryness and width of cut. If you're switching around between the above species, I'd be inclined to play around with a wider piece of walnut - if it doesn't bog down in that it shouldn't in any of the others.

 

Alec