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haforbes

sharpening

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haforbes   

I had a professional sharpen my saw a while ago and it ripped and stayed sharp for a lot longer than it does when I sharpen it. I've done my cs30, I've tried using sharpening guide and tried without and I've got the right file. Even in my workshop with the saw in a vice and if I take my time I still can't get it as sharp as he did:blushing:. Does it take a lot of practice to get it properly sharp or am I probably doing something wrong???

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Heads up   

Yeah man practice is the key, i was awful for ages. Don't fret about the time it takes to get it right, once you start getting good speed will quickly follow. keep positive:thumbup:

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Practice makes perfect.

 

Are you using a nice sharp file? It makes a massive difference when sharpening once they start to dull i tend to get rid of them. Are you using one of the STIHL/Oregon file holders that sit onto of the file or a Husky one that file rolls across. If your using one try the other. I get a much better result using a roller guide (Husky). There are a few thread on here full of great sharpening tips. Try searching for sharpening.

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Probably been done on a grinder, that way all cutter lengths, angles and hook are maintained and he probably then matched the raker depth gauge height to the cutters - getting all this right is a bit of an art....even with a grinder.

 

It is best to use a grinder every 2nd - 4th sharpen as it pulls the chain back in to balanced condition.

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Tom D   
Probably been done on a grinder, that way all cutter lengths, angles and hook are maintained and he probably then matched the raker depth gauge height to the cutters - getting all this right is a bit of an art....even with a grinder.

 

It is best to use a grinder every 2nd - 4th sharpen as it pulls the chain back in to balanced condition.

 

If you can sharpen well by hand your chain shouldn't be unbalanced??

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haforbes   
Probably been done on a grinder, that way all cutter lengths, angles and hook are maintained and he probably then matched the raker depth gauge height to the cutters - getting all this right is a bit of an art....even with a grinder.

 

Unfortunately not, I watched him do it. Did it in 1/4 of the time it takes me and didn't use a guide, said you can get it sharper without one :confused1:

 

Are you using a nice sharp file? It makes a massive difference when sharpening once they start to dull i tend to get rid of them. Are you using one of the STIHL/Oregon file holders that sit onto of the file or a Husky one that file rolls across.

 

File was straight out of the box. I'm using a Stihl file holder.

 

It's funny, when I did my cs30 it was like "now you can sharpen a saw". I suppose it's like when you pass your driving test but you can't really drive properly :biggrin:.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will just keep practicing, a sharp saw seems to take less effort and less time to use and I'm sure it's probably safer, so it's irritating when you can't get it right.

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Frank   
Unfortunately not, I watched him do it. Did it in 1/4 of the time it takes me and didn't use a guide, said you can get it sharper without one :confused1:

 

 

 

File was straight out of the box. I'm using a Stihl file holder.

 

It's funny, when I did my cs30 it was like "now you can sharpen a saw". I suppose it's like when you pass your driving test but you can't really drive properly :biggrin:.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will just keep practicing, a sharp saw seems to take less effort and less time to use and I'm sure it's probably safer, so it's irritating when you can't get it right.

I think the phrase should have been "now you know how to sharpen a saw". haha

 

Practise, practise, practise.:thumbup1:

 

let the file glide, dont try and make it dig, if you get what I mean.

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Probably been done on a grinder, that way all cutter lengths, angles and hook are maintained and he probably then matched the raker depth gauge height to the cutters - getting all this right is a bit of an art....even with a grinder.

 

It is best to use a grinder every 2nd - 4th sharpen as it pulls the chain back in to balanced condition.

 

what bollocks ,been doing it free hand for over 30 yrs & that includes sharpening chains :001_tt2:,never needed a grinder to correct my filing yet ,& never wil do,grinders do more damage than good ,any good man that can do it free hand will tell you that ,if you cant dress a chain properly, give asda a ring :biggrin:

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MattyF   

Pitch, angle and keeping all the cutters same length and depth its just practise as well as the rakers in check are the key I don't use a guide but took me years before I could get it spot on!...will say this though I sharpened a badly mauled by flint 36" chain the other day got a lump of filing in my eye and a few days later spent the day in hospital so wear glasses it ain't worth the risk! The amount of fillings over the years I've had in my eyes over the years, I've never thought it necessary but this last time nearly costs my sight!

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what bollocks ,been doing it free hand for over 30 yrs & that includes sharpening chains :001_tt2:,never needed a grinder to correct my filing yet ,& never wil do,grinders do more damage than good ,any good man that can do it free hand will tell you that ,if you cant dress a chain properly, give asda a ring :biggrin:

 

:lol::thumbup:

 

It's funny, when I did my cs30 it was like "now you can sharpen a saw". I suppose it's like when you pass your driving test but you can't really drive properly

 

I like your comparison, so now you need a few miles on the road!

 

Not sure i can word this right, but dont try and force the file when in the guide. You can flex the file enough to throw out the effect of having a guide to help you, so take your time and let the file "flow" accross the chain.

 

With practice you will be able to throw away the guide like Woodpicker says, and then get a truely "sharp" chain, that seems to not be achievable with a guide.

 

It may even take months or even years, but with patience you will get there.

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