today's job "step cut 3"

[scotspine1]

OK... I give up...

 

Thank you.

[Xerxses]

There has been a lot of research in this field at the Swedish Forrestry Researchcentre where they looked and trialed different kinds of felling cuts They looked at the fibrebending in the hinge as the gob were closing and found that a level backcut gives the highest bending ratios in both soft- and hardwoodfibres.

QUOTE]

 

I COMPLETELY AGREE and have tried to tell this to many Americans for years. The high backcut (aka stump shot) will tend to hurt control and accuracy for a number of reasons. Some Americans think you need to put 2" of stump shot on every fall. I DON'T... I like my cut level or just slightly high, no more than 1", especially on tulip. The tighter the drop zone and the more questionable the holding power of the hinge, the more importance I put on cutting a precise level backcut!

 

The exception to this rule is going to be where the tree might hang up on another tree on the way down. Otherwise I cut the backcuts very close to level. That is one of the best reasons for using the plunge cut to form the hinge. It allows precise control of the height of the backcut relative to the gob.

 

Look at the videos and you'll see I use a level back cut in most cases.. That said: the low back release is going to have zero effect on the hinge fibers as the tree moves.. the height of the back cut is set with the plunge!

 

I'd be very interested in seeing an English translation of that research.. any ideas where it can be found?

 

Thanks..

 

Ihavn't found a translation and only one of the papers...google translate?

0ff240cc-ca87-4b5f-bce9-c44900ffabc9.pdf

[Mark Bolam]

Daniel, the felling technique is still a bit too much for my Northern English brain, but I enjoyed the work preceding it.

 

Some big lumps rigged down there mate. Was that you and Pat Epps?

 

Also thought the lumps 'ran' pretty well.

 

Some of you purists should try working with me on the ground.....

[chopthatup]

complete overkill to me whats the point normal felling cut would do

[the crafty weasel]

and what's that poor little saw done to you to make you throw it on the ground quite as hard as you did at 2.54?

[butler]

if time is money then why didn't you just knock those tops straight out? Looks like there was enough room to me.

 

matt ur gay

[butler]

how come it took you so long?

[butler]

Here's a job we did today.. Its a perfect example of why I love to use the step cut.. Its a big time and energy saver. Stump was 40"+ at the cut. Took me less than 60 seconds to finish the flush cut and run the piece through the chipper. I left the saw's audio in for that cut only, so you all can tell that the flush cut was put up in real time and unedited.

 

Even though its gonna make me sound as arrogant as ever, here the details.. 85' tulip.. up and down in the hooks, lowered everything out to protect the lawn and make clean up easier. 24 or 25 cuts roped down. I threw the customer a bone and spent almost an hour in the bucket doing a bit of pruning on the two trees in the background (locust and maple) take all the wood and grind the stump (gridings backfilled) ... $2500.. I doubt customer got other prices as his landscaper refered me, though I bid it last summer and only got the green light last week.

 

Tree was on the ground in 2:45 after I stepped on the property. Alternator on the bucket went, so I had to go back to a vehicle left at the AM job to get jumper cables, then home to pick up the stump grinder, as my neighbor had borrowed the truck that pulls it, then picked up lunch. Even with all that this job grossed right around $100/man/hour, including travel both ways and lunch.

 

Moral of the story:

$$$ talks and BS walks...

Even with a nice number on the job, the only way to make that kind of coin in this business is by operating with efficiency in all areas, from setting lines to clean up.

 

Here it is, 3:43 :

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ8syV5LVOE]YouTube - step cut 3.mov[/ame]

how come it took you so long?