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Stove with back boiler


davey_b
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If its going in a new self build have you thought of wood fired rayburn or something similar.

We have one and a log burner, both of which are connected to a thermal store. This produces heat for all our cooking, central heating and mains pressure hot water

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Wood burning stoves are excluded:

 

Excluded technologies | RH Incentive

 

but "biomass heat generation" is included.

 

For each kWh of heat you produce in a small (sub 45kW) it sounds like you will get about 7p (tariffs are due to be updated following government spending review).

 

Unless I am being really dim about this, that means that if you can source pellets or woodchip for sub 5p / kWh (I've worked out what this means in pence per kilo somewhere in one of my other posts) you will be getting your heat for free.

 

And if you get your woodchip for free / from a job, you will be getting paid to heat your own home!

 

If I had the space I'd go for a woodchip boiler as part of a system with a thermal store ahead of a stove with backboiler but I guess it's down to choice.

 

FWIW, I remain to be convinced on ASHP. The CoP is about 2.5 at best, or so I'm told. Combined with power at about 15p/kWh (say) your heat is still costing you 6p/kWh - compared to about 4.5p kWh for kerosene at the moment. Mind you, the RHI on the ASHP should just about cover the power costs providing it's running efficiently.

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I fitted my own, both a rayburn and an aarrow boiler stove linked ny a dunsley neutraliser together with a condensing gas boiler ( I got someone qualified to connect the gas up) Its not that hard and done properly is pretty efficient. My heating, hot water and cooking eats up about 30 cube of good dry logs each year, so bear that in mind as thats quite a lot of wood. Then I live in a draughty old house where as your's will be a new build.

 

If its not too late, I (if i was doing my own newbuild) would fit an underfloor system. This is possible if you use a heat store/exchanger. This is basically a large hot water cylinder with two coils instead of one the top coil feeds the underfloor system and the bottom one comes from the stove. This has the advantage that in the morning before you get up you have a store of hot water to get the heating going before you get up and start putting logs on the fire. It also takes out heat "spikes" and prevents the underfloor system being overheated.:001_smile:

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I fitted my own heating Aarrow Stratford Boiler. We burn both anthracite and wood. Once the water is warm, which takes about 20mins to get it warm enough for the pump to switch on, it doesn't burn masses. The stove has been on pretty much all day today and we have gone through a small bucket of anthracite and a net and a half of logs. As the logs cost me nowt its maybe cost a couple of quid to have the heating on for the last 12 hours :thumbup:

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....The safety system will work, but it can be uncomfortable listening to it during a power cut..

 

Hello, first post on this forum but been lurking a while. Do all back boiler systems make a racket during a power cut? (I worried it was just mine!) What is actually making the noise?

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Stoves with back boilers can kettle if you get them proper hot. Basically the water gets close to boiling and causes the banging noise. Can also happen to the hot water cylinder if you get it hot enough. We've no anti gravity valve fitted in our system so if we have a power cut the radiators up stairs will still be on and reduce the risk of the system boiling its self. The thing to do also is shut your damper right down so the system shouldn't be as hot.

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Often simplicity is best.

We heat our home using 2 woodburning stoves, and have kerosene boiler as a back up.

The house is old, built 1900 and sits in a very exposed area, has 2 levels and 5 bedrooms, but has double glazing and loft insulation.

The 2 stoves supply all our heat and only on the very coldest of winter days we need the kerosene on. We heat our water via electricity and power showers etc.

 

If I was building a new house, I would place a decent wood burner in the centre and let it do all the heating, leaving water to be heated by alternate means.

Just my idea on it.

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Fitted my own boiler stove. It does hot water, radiators and under floor heating.

I put a thermosyphon radiator in so if there's a power cut it doesn't boil to readily. The main problem is that the fire box is kept cool which makes the combustion a bit inefficient.

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Stoves with back boilers can kettle if you get them proper hot. Basically the water gets close to boiling and causes the banging noise. Can also happen to the hot water cylinder if you get it hot enough. We've no anti gravity valve fitted in our system so if we have a power cut the radiators up stairs will still be on and reduce the risk of the system boiling its self. The thing to do also is shut your damper right down so the system shouldn't be as hot.

 

we have a wamsler a modern version of a rayburn german made and better output, you need to have a pressure release valve set at 2.5/3 bar so if the power goes off whilst your out the moterrised valves will shut the temp of the water in the pipes will rise and so will the pressure the valve then releases the water bypassing the motorised valves and sends it round the central heating side to disperse. if you dont have this you could end up coming home to burst pipes or damaging the back boiler

 

look at Eco Angus Wood Burning Boilers - Home they have gasification boilers which burn efficiently there just a stand alone boiler. or Wamsler Solid Fuel Cookers and Central heating

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