Idea for making chainsawmilling easier...

[tommer9]

Just keep the ladder there to stop the mill dropping off the end, or move the handle according to the size of log (nearer the head on a smaller log) and use the bar the handle ios bolted to as a final guide. Turning the mill from the perpendicular also helps, as you can keep both rails on the log surface for longer.

 

Raising one end of the log off the ground and milling downhill makes a MASSIVE difference to how easy it is to work, and tothe final quality of the cut. On sofwood i find that leaving the rakers a little higher than normal results in less 'grabbing' too, and in hardwooods a very sharp chain is essential.

[Big J]

I've got a friend who fabricates with steel. I've got a few ideas in my head on how to construct a user friendly rail system that is quick to set up and completely solid. If they come to fruition, I'll pop the design up on here. It's basically along the lines of a pair 3200mm box section (something like 80x30mm) with double holes drilled at every 100mm. Two cross members just beyond the ends of the log lock into the double holes, one of which has a screw tight clamp (like one a carpenter would use). The plates in contact with the log are drilled so that you can screw into the log with screws for additional security. Shouldn't cost more than about £80-100 to have made which is comparable with the cost of a good ladder.

 

I spend so much time pratted about setting up with ladders, working out what slice to take off so I don't hit the screws etc - I would just love a simpler system!

 

Jonathan

[Cracker]

None! (yet) but seems a good thing to get into particularly running the Peterson mill as well

 

I'd imagine it's quite a labour and capital intensive business. Are you thinking of doing out buildings, garages, summer houses, etc?

[Rob D]

Oh no just more to have the knowledge for myself to build a couple of things rather than go into it like a proper business....

 

 

Would be fun to build a couple of frame type sheds etc maybe just using softwood...

[Ian Flatters]

Anyone using 2 handles on the rail? throttle locked out one handle close the engine other near the tip end?

 

I over extend my ladder quite a bit to stop tip drop off. Although i haven't had too many occurrences with it happening even after the top cut.

 

It had also crossed my mind about extending the rail width too. Maybe a 30cm bit in the middle on either side would do the job?

[Big J]

I throttle lock, but don't have two handles yet. Will do shortly though.

 

For those of you putting the ladder on for each cut, how do you attach it without screwing into usable timber?

 

Jonathan

[Ian Flatters]

I throttle lock, but don't have two handles yet. Will do shortly though.

 

For those of you putting the ladder on for each cut, how do you attach it without screwing into usable timber?

 

Jonathan

 

I put a bigish lump of wood on the end furthest away then when i get half way swap it to the other end, then as i get close to the end i sit on the ladder, (only works if you've put wedges in so you don't pinch the saw)

[morten]

 

Does everyone use a ladder for that first straight cut or does anyone have any designs for an effective, reliable rail system?

 

Jonathan

 

I use the Mini Mill on a 2" x 6" plywood rail for the first cut. Rail is screwed into timber, but no risk of cutting into them, since cut is done vertically.

 

Then roll the stock 90 degrees, and use cut planks using the Alaskan Mill or continue using the Mini Mill for larger dimension timber.

 

Works great (for me).

Edited May 4, 2010 by morten

[Bob Slade]

Very good points Jonathan.

 

I have heard of people when milling having a second person pulling the mill with a rope. Guess they will need a steady hand.

 

 

 

This was something i was going to start a thread about. I am still nailing a ladder to the log and bending the nails over the rungs! Very crude but i intend to do my own little invention soon, still using the ladder but if it works i shall be happy to share, and will do a seperate thread about it.

yes i use a ladder but zip it down with turbo screws.you have to drill holes in the ladder steps, 2 in each about 5" apart and alternate the screws along the ladder. this keeps it tight to the tree and helps prevent vibration. any gaps under the ladder rails can be wedged and the wedge screwed to the tree to stop it falling out.

Edited May 6, 2010 by Bob Slade
spelling mistake

[18 stoner]

Nice one:thumbup1:

 

I dont really want to drill my ladder, but my thoughts of a design are along those lines.

 

It would be to get flat steel bar with a hole in the center(possibly 3 or 4 of them), and you would screw coach bolts through it into the log and the flat bar would spread along the ladder from one rung to another. This way, the clamps can be placed anywhere on the ladder, and you are not restricted to where the holes are.

 

Also, weld extensions onto the heads of the coach screws to make them like wing nuts that can be screwed in by hand. Obviously, these would need to be kept low to keep below the straight edge of the ladder.