skip tooth chains

[Ian C]

ok thanks for the info, would there be any advantage to me having a skip tooth to go with my other chains for my saw being 42 cc and an 18 in bar?

 

Why do you want or need an 18" bar on a 42cc saw???? use a smaller bar and have a far better balanced more powerful and safer saw.

[husky440e]

Why do you want or need an 18" bar on a 42cc saw???? use a smaller bar and have a far better balanced more powerful and safer saw.

 

i was simply asking a question about something i knew nothing about, i have only ever used regular chains, and wanted some knowledge about the skip tooth ones. sorry to bother you for wanting to know about something.

 

thank you to all that answered my question, i now have some idea about them.

[3dogs]

the gap between each cutter is called the chip space so a semi skip chain will hold more chip between each cutter hence the advantage of using a semi skip chain on longer guide bars allowing more chippings to be stored prior to being deposited either out the end of the cut or out the rear of the saw. This produces less drag whilst cutting large diameter stems giving better efficency the chain speed is the same regardless of the type of chain the only difference is the reduction of drag. putting this type of chain on a small guide bar would give no real benifit as chippings are deposited quicker do to chain speed over diameter. hope that makes sense. dogs.

[husky440e]

the gap between each cutter is called the chip space so a semi skip chain will hold more chip between each cutter hence the advantage of using a semi skip chain on longer guide bars allowing more chippings to be stored prior to being deposited either out the end of the cut or out the rear of the saw. This produces less drag whilst cutting large diameter stems giving better efficency the chain speed is the same regardless of the type of chain the only difference is the reduction of drag. putting this type of chain on a small guide bar would give no real benifit as chippings are deposited quicker do to chain speed over diameter. hope that makes sense. dogs.

 

 

yup, makes sense to me

[Al Smith]

Old story. Long long time ago I ran a Poulan S25 which was in it's day the best tree trimmers saw of it's time.This was before 3/8" low profile chain was ever invented .The saw ran 1/4" full compliment .

 

Oregon at that time made full chisel 1/4" chain available in both full complimnt and skip configuation .It cut amazingly fast .A certain person with influence by the name of Ralph Nader had it removed from the market because of the size of the saw as it was also sold to homeowners as well as professionals .He didn't feel the chain was safe . Typical of the government trying to play nanny with the people .

[J Holtby]

Hi, couple of questions to help my understanding here

 

1) mr chainsawbars, do you stock any 3/8 semi skip chains? if not, does anyone in the uk?

 

2) So the advantage of semi/full skip is not really to do with bar length, but with wood diameter being cut (i know this can be one and the same, whichever way people describe it, but in short, its to help the chain run freer in thick wood)

 

3) If i were to put some semi/full skip chain on my 36/48 bars, would it be an idea to replace the 7t with an 8t (or even 9t?) sprocket to help speed things up? as i guess less torque is required with the fewer cutters in the material?

 

4) Does anyone on here currently run skip chains and what are their views?

 

Regards

 

Joe

[J Holtby]

Done a bit more digging, and it seems skip chain is readily available in .404

 

so...

 

5) currently running 36" bar, its 3/8" so 114 drive links, if i put a .404 sprock/chain on, how many drive links will i need to order on the chain?

 

Regards

 

Joe

[Stubby]

Hi, couple of questions to help my understanding here

 

1) mr chainsawbars, do you stock any 3/8 semi skip chains? if not, does anyone in the uk?

 

2) So the advantage of semi/full skip is not really to do with bar length, but with wood diameter being cut (i know this can be one and the same, whichever way people describe it, but in short, its to help the chain run freer in thick wood)

 

3) If i were to put some semi/full skip chain on my 36/48 bars, would it be an idea to replace the 7t with an 8t (or even 9t?) sprocket to help speed things up? as i guess less torque is required with the fewer cutters in the material?

 

4) Does anyone on here currently run skip chains and what are their views?

 

Regards

 

Joe

Hi . I have run some .404 semi skip chains on a Husqvarna 395 36" bar and the same on a 3120 with a 42" bar . These chains came with the saws which I bought from a buddie in Canada . They were set up like this for cutting big soft wood . On one the rakers were practicly filed right off making it very agressive . Apart from all the reasons stated before , chip clearence , less drag etc etc I think it also depends on the type of wood . Soft wood being a softer cut than say holme oak ? What I am saying it might not be a benifit in all circumstanses perhaps . p.s. sorry about the crap spelling !

[Rob D]

Hi, couple of questions to help my understanding here

 

1) mr chainsawbars, do you stock any 3/8 semi skip chains? if not, does anyone in the uk?

 

2) So the advantage of semi/full skip is not really to do with bar length, but with wood diameter being cut (i know this can be one and the same, whichever way people describe it, but in short, its to help the chain run freer in thick wood)

 

3) If i were to put some semi/full skip chain on my 36/48 bars, would it be an idea to replace the 7t with an 8t (or even 9t?) sprocket to help speed things up? as i guess less torque is required with the fewer cutters in the material?

 

4) Does anyone on here currently run skip chains and what are their views?

 

Regards

 

Joe

 

 

Sorry only just seen this thread again....

 

1) I don't have any skip link chain in 3/8" - I don't think anyone has in the UK. I think I'll try and get some in (won't be for 6 weeks) in 3/8 both .063 and .058. I have .404 oregon skip link ripping chain

 

Why don't we have it available here?

 

I suspect it's down to H&S. Kickback with a skip link chain will be more severe. If your sharpening is 'not great' then skip link is far more unforgiving - there'll be more vibration, more strain on the chainsaw, less control...

 

 

2)Why do skip link chains cut faster - tricky one and I don't know why for definite... I suspect it has something to do with better chip clearance in wider logs (2ft and up)...

 

 

but if you search the net there is little to no real information on how the chain on a chainsaw cuts anyway.... so it's hard then to say why skip link is faster...

 

 

3) Stick with the 7T sprocket - you need the additional torque with skip chain. Why? Again I'm not knowledgeable enough to back up this with fact - but it's more aggressive chain so you want the additional power behind each tooth or it's more likely yo bog down. You could change up the rim for say a 30" or 28" bar though....

 

 

 

I do have Oregon .404 full skip square ground chain - not figured how to sharpen it properly yet though .... and also full skip oregon .404 ripping chain which is micro chisel so you could adapt the angle on this to use for cross cutting.

[Rob D]

Done a bit more digging, and it seems skip chain is readily available in .404

 

so...

 

5) currently running 36" bar, its 3/8" so 114 drive links, if i put a .404 sprock/chain on, how many drive links will i need to order on the chain?

 

Regards

 

Joe

 

 

What chainsaw do you have? If an MS660 then I think this should be 104 d/l of .404 - and as well as the drive sprocket you'll also have to change the nose sprocket over to .404